I lost many lures due to the bail close earlier while casting. Is there any conversion kit to make to Penn 5500ss bailess? I am also looking for a new reel in similar size to the 5500ss. Is there any maker produce reels that are gurantee not to close the bail accidently while casting?
jfishm
Unfortunately, no, there is not a store bought conversion kit for the Penn 5500SS or smaller. Only the 6500-9500SS (the ones with the metal bodies) have a conversion kit.
Technically, you could do it yourself with a pair of *****, a file and a rubber cap. I have not done this type of conversion. Basically, you are just going to clip the bail off, file it down even the best you can and then cover it with a piece of rubber to protect your line and your finger. Personally, I would use something like a plastisol paint. This paint is commonly used for jigs fished around rocks and puts a thick rubbery coating on them.
Of course, if you can file it down so there is no risk of cutting yourself, then you won't need the covering.
The next step, is to secure the bail arm. On a normal bail, you can rotate the bail around in the socket where it connects to the roller. Because it will no longer be attached to the opposite side, you will need to secure this into the right position; down and out from the reel. My guess is to use solder but I'm not sure if solder will hold to it.
The only reels I know this size that have store bought bail conversions are the Van Staal series, the Penn 704z (will come with a bail but I believe you can convert this) and possibly some of the old mitchell reels. I think the old school Luxor/Crack reels were bailess too.
If you are using mono, switch over to Fireline. It's strength will give you more of a buffer zone against snapping off.
Just to add one more thing, look for a reel with instant antireverse. That way, when you stick the handle, it stays there. A lot of times, the backplay allows the handle to get just enough momentum to flip the bail on you.
On a reel like the 5500, if you put the handle in the 6 oclock position, pull the handle back until the anti-reverse kicks in, and then do your cast, it works better. That way it can't use backplay or gravity to spin the handle forward.
(This post edited by Patrick on 05/09/2003)
Technically, you could do it yourself with a pair of *****, a file and a rubber cap. I have not done this type of conversion. Basically, you are just going to clip the bail off, file it down even the best you can and then cover it with a piece of rubber to protect your line and your finger. Personally, I would use something like a plastisol paint. This paint is commonly used for jigs fished around rocks and puts a thick rubbery coating on them.
Of course, if you can file it down so there is no risk of cutting yourself, then you won't need the covering.
The next step, is to secure the bail arm. On a normal bail, you can rotate the bail around in the socket where it connects to the roller. Because it will no longer be attached to the opposite side, you will need to secure this into the right position; down and out from the reel. My guess is to use solder but I'm not sure if solder will hold to it.
The only reels I know this size that have store bought bail conversions are the Van Staal series, the Penn 704z (will come with a bail but I believe you can convert this) and possibly some of the old mitchell reels. I think the old school Luxor/Crack reels were bailess too.
If you are using mono, switch over to Fireline. It's strength will give you more of a buffer zone against snapping off.
Just to add one more thing, look for a reel with instant antireverse. That way, when you stick the handle, it stays there. A lot of times, the backplay allows the handle to get just enough momentum to flip the bail on you.
On a reel like the 5500, if you put the handle in the 6 oclock position, pull the handle back until the anti-reverse kicks in, and then do your cast, it works better. That way it can't use backplay or gravity to spin the handle forward.
(This post edited by Patrick on 05/09/2003)
Jfishm,
There are no conversion kit to make to Penn 5500ss bailess. At least not yet!
There are similar reels to the Penn 5500ss. There are no 100% reels that will not flip once in awhile. There is the Okuma Epixor, Shimano Stradic, to name a few. You could always use the rubber band trick. So far, I have not got my reel flip once after casting really hard with bait and lure.
There are no conversion kit to make to Penn 5500ss bailess. At least not yet!
There are similar reels to the Penn 5500ss. There are no 100% reels that will not flip once in awhile. There is the Okuma Epixor, Shimano Stradic, to name a few. You could always use the rubber band trick. So far, I have not got my reel flip once after casting really hard with bait and lure.patrick---can't figure you out. you claim you can repair an outboard, build boats (been following your 'net legacy for many years now), use cad technology to design lures, and now give detailed instructions on how to remove a bail from a 550 reel. but you take the side plate off a freakin' abu 7000, a little piece falls out, and you load it in a bag and run off to a tackle shop crying, "help, help, this is too complicated for me to fix myself"
you're a fraud, sonny.
you're a fraud, sonny.
I'm a fraud?
First of boatbuilding is not as hard as it sounds and I had some very good teachers.
I can repair outboards. Engines are easy compared to a conventional reel. Maybe because I grew up working with my dad on lawnmowers, chainsaws, and leaf blowers. 2 stroke engines, not a problem.
I've grown up around spinning reels. Used one since I was four and I've been taking them apart just as long.
I'll tell you what. You come up to CT and you can watch me service my spinning reels.
You come up and we can go on a tour of my old school where I learned my trades.
Conventional reels are new to me and the schematics came on a 2x4 inch card that is so blurry that you cannot tell what is what!
Here is a little award I got for boatbuilding. I've got another one for Master Boatbuilding.
Call my bluff, I dare ya. Oh yeah, good job hi-jacking this thread by the way. I'm sure Jfishm just loves it.
(This post edited by Patrick on 05/10/2003)
First of boatbuilding is not as hard as it sounds and I had some very good teachers.
I can repair outboards. Engines are easy compared to a conventional reel. Maybe because I grew up working with my dad on lawnmowers, chainsaws, and leaf blowers. 2 stroke engines, not a problem.
I've grown up around spinning reels. Used one since I was four and I've been taking them apart just as long.
I'll tell you what. You come up to CT and you can watch me service my spinning reels.
You come up and we can go on a tour of my old school where I learned my trades.
Conventional reels are new to me and the schematics came on a 2x4 inch card that is so blurry that you cannot tell what is what!
Here is a little award I got for boatbuilding. I've got another one for Master Boatbuilding.
Call my bluff, I dare ya. Oh yeah, good job hi-jacking this thread by the way. I'm sure Jfishm just loves it.
(This post edited by Patrick on 05/10/2003)
Attachments
Not sure if this will work but here are some of the lures I've designed in CAD
Well, it didn't work so I guess I'll just link them.
Dani Plug that I rounded the tail on
A 3D Image of the same improved Dani plug
A polaris type popper
A 3d image of the same polaris type popper
The fade away! He shoots! He scores! And that's game!
(This post edited by Patrick on 05/10/2003)
Well, it didn't work so I guess I'll just link them.
Dani Plug that I rounded the tail on
A 3D Image of the same improved Dani plug
A polaris type popper
A 3d image of the same polaris type popper
The fade away! He shoots! He scores! And that's game!
(This post edited by Patrick on 05/10/2003)
UPDATE
Well, I decided to do the repair by myself.
Despite lousy schematics, I was able to fix my reel.
Windcatcher, since you follow my internet legacy, you should have known that I would work my fingers to the bone on that reel before I would EVER give into someone like yourself. It may be a sin, but I take pride in proving people like you wrong.
Call me a fraud all you want babydoll, but I will NEVER give into you and your wayward friends. I know my stuff and what I don't know, I learn.
The only wind you catch is the kind I break.
I pity da foo' dat don't believe in Patrick.
Well, I decided to do the repair by myself.
Despite lousy schematics, I was able to fix my reel.
Windcatcher, since you follow my internet legacy, you should have known that I would work my fingers to the bone on that reel before I would EVER give into someone like yourself. It may be a sin, but I take pride in proving people like you wrong.
Call me a fraud all you want babydoll, but I will NEVER give into you and your wayward friends. I know my stuff and what I don't know, I learn.
The only wind you catch is the kind I break.
I pity da foo' dat don't believe in Patrick.
Pat, your back! I'm feeling the love already.
To bring this thread back on subject, in the latest Surfcaster catalog they do have a manual conversion kit for a Penn 5500. I've used thier 6500 kit and it's great. Don't know if it's a Penn product or something they have specially made for themselves. Worth a call to them at least.
Jaiem
ArtsNFlies.com
To bring this thread back on subject, in the latest Surfcaster catalog they do have a manual conversion kit for a Penn 5500. I've used thier 6500 kit and it's great. Don't know if it's a Penn product or something they have specially made for themselves. Worth a call to them at least.
Jaiem
ArtsNFlies.com
Jaiem,
Long time no see. Saw a couple posts over on the WMI but nothing really can keep me interested over there.
They are really making a 5500 bail conversion? I haven't heard a peep out of penn about this. Must be a custom fabrication. The surfcaster is like that. They do their own Crack/Luxor parts or Bill bought every left over piece he could find. Wouldn't suprise me that he is. He's always doing something different. Like drilling out spools so sand won't get caught in the flyer.
I haven't gotten their new catalog. I don't blame them, because I haven't ordered from them yet.
Long time no see. Saw a couple posts over on the WMI but nothing really can keep me interested over there.
They are really making a 5500 bail conversion? I haven't heard a peep out of penn about this. Must be a custom fabrication. The surfcaster is like that. They do their own Crack/Luxor parts or Bill bought every left over piece he could find. Wouldn't suprise me that he is. He's always doing something different. Like drilling out spools so sand won't get caught in the flyer.
I haven't gotten their new catalog. I don't blame them, because I haven't ordered from them yet.
One of the other problems with converting the 5500 to a bailess reel, is that the bail return spring is on the opposite side of the spool from the line roller. So, if you were to cut off the bail, the line roller side would just flop around.
I didn't follow Patrick's explaination that well, but I think that may be why he was suggesting soldering parts. That won't work with graphite though. Maybe Crazy Glue.
It can be done, because I say a guy at Montauk who had it done to the reel, as well as having the spool all drilled out.
I didn't follow Patrick's explaination that well, but I think that may be why he was suggesting soldering parts. That won't work with graphite though. Maybe Crazy Glue.
It can be done, because I say a guy at Montauk who had it done to the reel, as well as having the spool all drilled out.
I think the bail spring on all the Penn SS reels is on the roller side. It is on the 4300 and the 6500 so I'm thinking it would be on the reels inbetween.
That's not a problem.
Soldering to graphite? Why would I even suggest such a silly thing? Solder won't hold to graphite.
I'm talking about the part where the actual bail comes out of the roller assembly. Because it has to be attached to the other side, it is able to pivot in that joint until you screw down the other side. Since the bail is gone, it will pivot on it's own. We don't want that. So, you gotta either solder it or jam it up.
You could probably get away with a plastic shim. Just take like a plastic toothpick, jam it in there and trim it flush. Make sure it doesn't interfer with the roller though.
That's not a problem.
Soldering to graphite? Why would I even suggest such a silly thing? Solder won't hold to graphite.
I'm talking about the part where the actual bail comes out of the roller assembly. Because it has to be attached to the other side, it is able to pivot in that joint until you screw down the other side. Since the bail is gone, it will pivot on it's own. We don't want that. So, you gotta either solder it or jam it up.
You could probably get away with a plastic shim. Just take like a plastic toothpick, jam it in there and trim it flush. Make sure it doesn't interfer with the roller though.
Patrick,
The 4400SS and and 5500SS DO NOT have the spring on the roller side. I just took them both apart and they both just flap in the wind.
Jaiem,
Where did you see that in the Surfcaster? I just went through the catalog and where they list the SS reels (Page 49), the first reel they offer the kit for is the 6500SS. Where am I missing it? I wish Penn would finally come out with a manual conversion for the Slammer 560 I have.
Thanks,
Chris
The 4400SS and and 5500SS DO NOT have the spring on the roller side. I just took them both apart and they both just flap in the wind.
Jaiem,
Where did you see that in the Surfcaster? I just went through the catalog and where they list the SS reels (Page 49), the first reel they offer the kit for is the 6500SS. Where am I missing it? I wish Penn would finally come out with a manual conversion for the Slammer 560 I have.
Thanks,
Chris
Chris,
Page 49? I'm looking at page 7 (in the 2002 catalog, they haven't sent me the new one yet). Maybe they dropped it for 2003.
Jaiem
ArtsNFlies.com
Page 49? I'm looking at page 7 (in the 2002 catalog, they haven't sent me the new one yet). Maybe they dropped it for 2003.
Jaiem
ArtsNFlies.com
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