Z-Spar Varnish...
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Capt XXX - why don't you use something that has a chance of making it thru the
season without looking like it was never done?
I like that Cetol light in either Matte or Gloss - I gave it a shot about 3 seasons ago and the only maintenance I have to do every Spring is to lightly rub any scuffed areas with a green scotchbrite pad and then hit just those spots with a touch up brush and good as new.
Looks great and lasts a LOOOOONG time.
More time for fishing, less time for aggravating maintenance.
Win-Win.
rgds, Leprechaun
season without looking like it was never done?
I like that Cetol light in either Matte or Gloss - I gave it a shot about 3 seasons ago and the only maintenance I have to do every Spring is to lightly rub any scuffed areas with a green scotchbrite pad and then hit just those spots with a touch up brush and good as new.
Looks great and lasts a LOOOOONG time.
More time for fishing, less time for aggravating maintenance.
Win-Win.
rgds, Leprechaun
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How many coats did you use?
I'm doing the cabin doors which are teak. They aren't in direct sunlight too much but still I'd like to try something other than just natural wood finish. How many coats of the Cetol did you use?
Just curious.
I'm doing the cabin doors which are teak. They aren't in direct sunlight too much but still I'd like to try something other than just natural wood finish. How many coats of the Cetol did you use?
Just curious.
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10,097 Posts
Two coats in that application will be plenty, three if you want to get anal.
There are a bunch of Cetol products out there now, the original Golden Semi-gloss, a "Light" clearer type, and a top coat that will give a super high gloss, if that's what you are after.
The fella I bought the boat from had originally used the Golden stuff, so that's what I stick with, but were I ever to strip it down to bare wood, I'm pretty sure that I'd go with the lighter stuff.
The good news is that you can do a three-coat job on that door in one warm day. It tacks up pretty fast.
And like I wrote originally, if you scuff it up fishing during the season all you need do is hit the scuffed area with a green Scothbrite pad or a vibrating palm sander and some 80-grit and then go right over the scuffed area with a brushed-on area patch coat - the stuff blends right in and you will not see the patch.
Everything we touchup on our boats should go as well. Try getting those results with gelcoat patch. Haa.
I love this Cetol stuff - just light-years ahead of any varnish, nails tough and long-lasting.
rgds, Leprechaun
There are a bunch of Cetol products out there now, the original Golden Semi-gloss, a "Light" clearer type, and a top coat that will give a super high gloss, if that's what you are after.
The fella I bought the boat from had originally used the Golden stuff, so that's what I stick with, but were I ever to strip it down to bare wood, I'm pretty sure that I'd go with the lighter stuff.
The good news is that you can do a three-coat job on that door in one warm day. It tacks up pretty fast.
And like I wrote originally, if you scuff it up fishing during the season all you need do is hit the scuffed area with a green Scothbrite pad or a vibrating palm sander and some 80-grit and then go right over the scuffed area with a brushed-on area patch coat - the stuff blends right in and you will not see the patch.
Everything we touchup on our boats should go as well. Try getting those results with gelcoat patch. Haa.
I love this Cetol stuff - just light-years ahead of any varnish, nails tough and long-lasting.
rgds, Leprechaun
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My latest boat has no teak but my previous had plenty. Cetol "Sea Toll" is a great product. If the salesman looks at you like you are crazy tell him you want the Sikkens brand, Cetol is the product line.
I remember looking at a Blackfin 32 at the NY boat show many moons ago, I couldn't believe the way the teak looked. The salesman clued me in, I and many boating friends became believers.
This stuff is a joy to work with and will make you and your boat look good.
I remember looking at a Blackfin 32 at the NY boat show many moons ago, I couldn't believe the way the teak looked. The salesman clued me in, I and many boating friends became believers.
This stuff is a joy to work with and will make you and your boat look good.
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I don't like to brag, but I know that I am the Varnish King here, well probably.
I have tried almost every wood product on the market today (almost literally) and have discovered that Cetol Marine is the best stuff to use in the ****pit, and any areas that are perpetually exposed to the elements, i.e. fish guts, scurbbing etc. Do the teak with Cetol base, and then go over it with the gloss for outstanding protection and great looks.
Put three coats of base on and three of top clear gloss.
Every year, take some metal wool of 400 grit sandpaper and scuff the surface, then jsut put a maintenance coat of cetol gloss over.
As for the louvered doors leading into the cabin- use a nice varnish and more importantly do a nice job. Since the doors are out of the elements you could afford to use a nice varnish. I use Epifanes Gloss on all the non-cetoled teak on my Grady.
Take the teak and sand it clean. Don'y use chemical strippers as they raise the grain of the wood, AND continue the solvents in the chemicals used continue to evaoprate when the varnish is put on consequenting in bubbles of orange peel.
Sand the wood clean with about 150 grit sandpaper. Then begin the smoothing and fdairing process by sanding with 220. When done with the 220, move onto the 320. You'll know when to move onto the next grade paper, by feeling the teak.
Once you have attained a smooth surface with the 320, wipe the wood down with the rag that was moistened with Mineral Spirits.
Now you are ready for your first coat of varnish. Take the first coat (of any varnish except for Epoxy Varnish and Cetol, which is incidentaly a synthetic varnish) and mix cut it with 50 percent of mineral spirits. Take the 50 percent mix of varnish and mineral spirtis and stirr it , BUT DO NOT SHAKE IT. Make sure the stirring is relaxed and just in a circular motion. Shaking the varnish or stirring not carefully will result in air bubbles.
Then take anther clean cup, dish, or whatever you will be using as to you will be tipping your brush. Put a piece of cheese cloth over the opening and pour the varnish through the cheese cloth. (The cheese cloth is intended to filter the varnish).
OK Now your ready to paply the varnish. Buy either a REALLY expensive badger brush or buy some REALLY CHEAP foam brushes. Use either or, but if you intend on using the badger brushes invest in some brush cleaning solution and expect to spend lots of time cleaning the brush. Also expect replace it after about 7 uses with varnish as the bristles will start falling off. It's been my experience that foam brushes are the better choice. However, what ever you do DO NOT anything else as other brushes will make a mess. Uhhhh don't even get me started.
Appy the varnish in long, uninterrupted, continous strokes. The first coat will soak into the wood and not shine as much, but watch out for runs.
Let dry 12-24 hours.
Sand lightly with 320 grit sandpaper.
Next repeat above procdure with the exception of diluting the varnish with 25 percent mineral spirtis, making for a 75% Varnish 25% mineral spirit mixture.
Apply carefully, let dry sand.
Apply the third coat diluted about 85% varnish to 15% mineral spirits.
Apply with more care, let dry sand.
Apply the fourth coat diluted 90-10.
Repeat, and apply remaing coats the can visconsity.
Remember thought to sand lightly inbetween coats, and as you move to high coat numbers, be more and more careful with how you apply the varnish. Also make sure the surface is clean and your work/drying space is also clean.
If you do it right, you should end up with a mirror like finish after 8-10 coats. Everyone who comes on my boat is very much impressed.
All you'll have to do is a maintenence coat every year. No biggie, should only take a little while. It will hold up and impress people.
I'l' take some pics of mine wood and post.
I have tried almost every wood product on the market today (almost literally) and have discovered that Cetol Marine is the best stuff to use in the ****pit, and any areas that are perpetually exposed to the elements, i.e. fish guts, scurbbing etc. Do the teak with Cetol base, and then go over it with the gloss for outstanding protection and great looks.
Put three coats of base on and three of top clear gloss.
Every year, take some metal wool of 400 grit sandpaper and scuff the surface, then jsut put a maintenance coat of cetol gloss over.
As for the louvered doors leading into the cabin- use a nice varnish and more importantly do a nice job. Since the doors are out of the elements you could afford to use a nice varnish. I use Epifanes Gloss on all the non-cetoled teak on my Grady.
Take the teak and sand it clean. Don'y use chemical strippers as they raise the grain of the wood, AND continue the solvents in the chemicals used continue to evaoprate when the varnish is put on consequenting in bubbles of orange peel.
Sand the wood clean with about 150 grit sandpaper. Then begin the smoothing and fdairing process by sanding with 220. When done with the 220, move onto the 320. You'll know when to move onto the next grade paper, by feeling the teak.
Once you have attained a smooth surface with the 320, wipe the wood down with the rag that was moistened with Mineral Spirits.
Now you are ready for your first coat of varnish. Take the first coat (of any varnish except for Epoxy Varnish and Cetol, which is incidentaly a synthetic varnish) and mix cut it with 50 percent of mineral spirits. Take the 50 percent mix of varnish and mineral spirtis and stirr it , BUT DO NOT SHAKE IT. Make sure the stirring is relaxed and just in a circular motion. Shaking the varnish or stirring not carefully will result in air bubbles.
Then take anther clean cup, dish, or whatever you will be using as to you will be tipping your brush. Put a piece of cheese cloth over the opening and pour the varnish through the cheese cloth. (The cheese cloth is intended to filter the varnish).
OK Now your ready to paply the varnish. Buy either a REALLY expensive badger brush or buy some REALLY CHEAP foam brushes. Use either or, but if you intend on using the badger brushes invest in some brush cleaning solution and expect to spend lots of time cleaning the brush. Also expect replace it after about 7 uses with varnish as the bristles will start falling off. It's been my experience that foam brushes are the better choice. However, what ever you do DO NOT anything else as other brushes will make a mess. Uhhhh don't even get me started.
Appy the varnish in long, uninterrupted, continous strokes. The first coat will soak into the wood and not shine as much, but watch out for runs.
Let dry 12-24 hours.
Sand lightly with 320 grit sandpaper.
Next repeat above procdure with the exception of diluting the varnish with 25 percent mineral spirtis, making for a 75% Varnish 25% mineral spirit mixture.
Apply carefully, let dry sand.
Apply the third coat diluted about 85% varnish to 15% mineral spirits.
Apply with more care, let dry sand.
Apply the fourth coat diluted 90-10.
Repeat, and apply remaing coats the can visconsity.
Remember thought to sand lightly inbetween coats, and as you move to high coat numbers, be more and more careful with how you apply the varnish. Also make sure the surface is clean and your work/drying space is also clean.
If you do it right, you should end up with a mirror like finish after 8-10 coats. Everyone who comes on my boat is very much impressed.
All you'll have to do is a maintenence coat every year. No biggie, should only take a little while. It will hold up and impress people.
I'l' take some pics of mine wood and post.
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Grady - Man, I'm Exhausted Just Reading About All That Work
Wow - Thanks for reminding me just how much work I've been missing since I discovered Cetol.
The sad part of all that prep and careful varnish application is that I've always found that by November, it pretty much looks like it needs to be done over again. And I still have December and January to fish - and those are the months that the boat in general and the varnish in particular takes the worst beating.
Different strokes for different folks, but with all the other stuff that requires attention on the boat, I like a tough finish that hangs in there, freeing me up to attend to other business.
But then if one LIKES to do this varnishing procedure - and Grady you laid out the correct way to do it, anyway if you enjoy that stuff, that's a whole 'nother discussion.
rgds, Leprechaun
Wow - Thanks for reminding me just how much work I've been missing since I discovered Cetol.
The sad part of all that prep and careful varnish application is that I've always found that by November, it pretty much looks like it needs to be done over again. And I still have December and January to fish - and those are the months that the boat in general and the varnish in particular takes the worst beating.
Different strokes for different folks, but with all the other stuff that requires attention on the boat, I like a tough finish that hangs in there, freeing me up to attend to other business.
But then if one LIKES to do this varnishing procedure - and Grady you laid out the correct way to do it, anyway if you enjoy that stuff, that's a whole 'nother discussion.
rgds, Leprechaun
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Leb, I also use Cetol, in the ****pit of the boat, and in all other areas that endure punishment from moma nature. But I have a lot of teak by my helm and surrounding areas, which are by the way out of the weather because I ahve a hardtop with full enclosure. The teak that's in there is done via the long hard work varnish job that is listed above. I would not waste my time doing the above work on pieces used in the ****pit or any other high maintence areas.
After it's all done, and you put the pieces back on the boat, and you see the refelction- it suddenly becomes worth it.
Regards,
Alex
Lep, if you like Cetol you should take a look at Honeyteak.
After it's all done, and you put the pieces back on the boat, and you see the refelction- it suddenly becomes worth it.
Regards,
Alex
Lep, if you like Cetol you should take a look at Honeyteak.
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Actually, I went a step beyond that
My boat had tons of teak all over the ****pit - teak hand rail around the ****pit (Long gone - first to go, in fact), teak hatch cover/floor boards (Converted to 3/4" Starboard at considerable expense and effort), teak under-gun'nel rod holders (Now starboard), lots of teak step plates (Now HDPE), and these funky protector covers for the trim tab lines (fabbed new out of HDPE). Plus a bunch of engine box handles and other chachkas all converted over to the never-rotting plastic. In fact there is ZERO teak anywhere to be seen now in my ****pit - just white plastic. Of course it will never look as nice as varnished teak, but it will also never need more than a swabbing with boat soap either.
A fair trade, IMO.
Under my canvas however, there's tons of teak and all of that gets the Cetol treatment to stay nice, with a light touchup every Spring. I like the look of teak, but not when it will involve endless repetative anal upkeep to look 100%.
I save that for the mechanicals and electricals.
And have little enough time even for that.
rgds, Leprechaun
My boat had tons of teak all over the ****pit - teak hand rail around the ****pit (Long gone - first to go, in fact), teak hatch cover/floor boards (Converted to 3/4" Starboard at considerable expense and effort), teak under-gun'nel rod holders (Now starboard), lots of teak step plates (Now HDPE), and these funky protector covers for the trim tab lines (fabbed new out of HDPE). Plus a bunch of engine box handles and other chachkas all converted over to the never-rotting plastic. In fact there is ZERO teak anywhere to be seen now in my ****pit - just white plastic. Of course it will never look as nice as varnished teak, but it will also never need more than a swabbing with boat soap either.
A fair trade, IMO.
Under my canvas however, there's tons of teak and all of that gets the Cetol treatment to stay nice, with a light touchup every Spring. I like the look of teak, but not when it will involve endless repetative anal upkeep to look 100%.
I save that for the mechanicals and electricals.
And have little enough time even for that.
rgds, Leprechaun
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