[neophyte]

I'M NEW TO LURE BUILDING. I HAVE A FAIRLY EXTENSIVE WOODWOOKING SHOP AND CONSIDERABLE EXPERINCE WORKING WITH WOOD.

i KNOW THAT SOME WOODS WILL CARVE EASIER (E.G. BASSWOOD AND MAHOGANY), THAT SOME ARE HEAVIER AND THAT SOME ARE MORE MOISTURE RESISTANT THAN OTHERS.

I WOULD LIKE TO DO SOME EXPERIMNETING WITH DIFFERENT WOOD SPECIES. i WAS WONDERING IF ANYONE ALREADY HAS DONE THIS &/OR WHAT EXPERINCES OTHERS HAVE HAD IN THIS AREA.
NEOPHYTE

 

[reelneel]

woods

i like mahogony,clear pineand cedar.just learning myself.just experiment like you said.mahogony has nice carvability+good weight.i seal every lure with a clear sealer,then a light coat of primer!

 

[Jerryvov]

If you're able to find yellow cedar (Alaskan)give that a go...it's beautiful stuff for carving and stands up well to salt water...on the west coast most of the native American tribes use it for carving totems as well as their big racing canoes...if you work with hand tools (knives, chisels, drawknife, etc.,)it's a material you really ought to try...I don't know of any other wood that takes detail so well yet stays nearly impervious to the salt water environment...

 

[617400]

as Jerry mentioned, Alaskan yellow is really nice, good for swimmers and very tolerant to salt water, Eastern and northern white cedar is quite soft and light but also good for swimming plugs as is wester red cedar (I prefer this to white). Maple and birch are good for needles but need to be sealed. I like spruce for both poppers and swimmers as it is buoyant and has weight, need to seal it, soaks up water like a sponge. Experiment, you know wood better than I do as you said you have experience. Teak is of course tolerant to the salt but expensive and the grain is difficult to conceal unless you use a sanding sealer or epoxy it before paint. Hope this helps. BA
Oh yeah, one more thing. If you are using basswood, seal it