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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's my take on mounting a rod holder for trollling, etc. Any other views? I use a Tite-Lok holder.

To waterproof the mounting holes, I use 3M 5200 sealant ($10 or so a tube at your favorite marine supplier) when I mount a new holder. I always add a large backing plate under the bolts, beneath the deck, and use washers also, to spread the load.

I think (though there are many, many opinions, some vehement) that the best place to mount a rod holder is just forward of your ****pit: just far enough forward that you can grab the rod out of the holder in a hurry, but not so close to your body that it interferes with your paddle stroke.

You can troll this way, and thus watch the rod tip for hits; also, the rod is always there at the ready for spincasting to a breaking school of stripers, blues, or bonito, of which on the Cape and elsewhere, where I fish, I am lucky enough to find many.

The Tite-Lok is not a permanent holder, just its base is. Which means I can take the holder off when I just feel like paddling.
 

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Hi Adam,
Can you post a pic for the above description? Maybe a diagram?

Also, what's the best way to cut out the hole? ...drill then jigsaw? And for sealing, how does hot glue (glue gun) match up?

Thanks!
 

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glue gun is for arts & crafts

5200 is one of the strongest "glues" out there, especially for marine use.
you could 5200 the bumpers of 2 cars together, let it dry, then try to drive them apart, the bumpers would rip off the cars before the bond seperated. no joking, it is that strong.
best stuff to use on the water.
you can use 5200 fast cure which cures in 2 days instead of regular 5200 which takes a week to cure. you could also use 3M 4200, which is not as strong as 5200, but gives you the "possibilty" of removing the glued parts one day in the future if necessary, but still strong enough to hold its bond forever.
 

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MY SEAT HAD TWO ROD HOLDERS IN THE BACK..IF U ARE TROLLING ITS NICE THAT THE POLES ARE BEHIND YOU..JUST LOOSEN THE DRAG...IF ITS A BIG ENOUGH HIT..IT'LL PULL THE WHOLE BOAT..ITS NICER THAN DRILLING A HOLE IN YOUR YAK
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
mounted rod holders

Hi Rosco,
I'll post a photo once I dig one up.

For drilling, I use a bit just a tiny bit smaller in diameter than the stainless bolts which mount the base plate to the deck. NO need for a jigsway: Tite-Lok holders mount using four bolts through the base plate (which rests on top of the deck.)

I think 3M 5200 is your best bet: it's not susceptible to UV rays nor heat, and can well take any beating saltwater can dishes out.
 

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Adam,
I put a couple Titeloks on my boat. I'm getting a couple more bases, I have a 2nd yak and plan to swap the rod holders around. Do those little studded locator washers fall off without the holder fitted? I thought they would, they have nothing obvious securing them, but they aren't easily removed either.

FWIW, I have one base ahead of the ****pit right side, one behind the ****pit left side. Usually put a rocket launcher aft and the original wire type forward. I have a lot of flexibility with this arrangement. The rocket launcher (multilok) can be locked in a horizontal position, rod can be stowed flat on the deck with one of the aft deck bungees pulled over to secure it.
 

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There are so many options and ways to go. Do definately back your rod holder. I use SS fender washers. Titelocks are nice. The best are RAM. They have a ball that stays on the kayak and all the different options can be attached to the balls. You can mount extra balls in various places on the kayak. They have 2 types of rod holders; the tube and rod models. The rod holds fly rods with fighting butts. You get 360 degrees or movement. They have electronics mounts too.
 

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