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Scalawag,

I have been using the Racor with the blue plastic bowl also. Make sure you get the one for gas engines.

Also BEFORE you buy it, take it out of the box and make sure the plastic bowl turns easily off the white filter and that the white filter turns off the filter base. They put these on at the factory with way too much force and some are real hard to take off the first time. Once you install it on your boat grease the oil ring and threads so you can take it off easily when you change the filter. Use just enough force to make the seal and prevent air leaks.

If yours will be mounted in an area exposed to the elements all the time, consider stripping the crappy white paint off the base and give it a really good prime/paint job. The stuff on the base from the housing stinks and flakes off in a year (powerder coat would be good).

You will rarely have to change the filter due to the large capacity. Just remember to mount it where you will have easy access to check and drain the water. It is amazing how much water it traps.

Capt. Marc
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Capt. Marc & Paulie, thanks for all the great tips. My last boat had one but the 2 outboards I ran before that didnt. When I mention this most people are suprised I never had any issues pertaining to water in the gas/engine { lucky I guess}
I also remember having a heck or a time removing the filter last year , will do the oil trick on the threads. Likr the pet**** idea, so you basicly just open the valve, drain the water & have to change the filter maybe yearly.?
Simple enough. cheap insurance
thanks, Alan
 

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This came from a very good buddy of mine that works at one of the lrg. boat yards up here. He said when installing a gas filter on your boat; try and keep it out of the SUN as
they have found some that wound up getting vapor
lock. They would know better than I being around
all the new and used boats. One thing i do know
is change the filter every year; it's not worth
loseing your motor over a $8.00 filter can.
 

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Allen, When you go to the sale in Freeport get there early. Last year when I was rebuiling my boat I needed alot of stuff. The good stuff goes fast and the lines at checkout are huge.

PS. West Marine has the fuel filter housings that you mount verticaly, perfect for under your rear bench on the Whaler.

THANKS ALOT
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i know what you mean about that store in Fpt. getting mobbed, besides that the hotdogs might all be eaten if, you get there too late.
will remember west has vert. mounts too. might need it.
i'm ready to go in the water, just have to paint under the trailer bunks & oh yeah install the gasfilter, maybe do that @ the dock in the water with cordless. It's going to get colder soon, 'specially @ night end of the week, can feel it in my bones. the only fishing for a smaller boat is herring maybe catch & release bass till flounder. Watch we get a real cold march after this great winter.
Alan
 

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Scalawag

On my first boat it was out in the open and never had a problem with vapor lock on the Racor filters. What I do have is one of those clear glass filters ahead of the fuel filter. I figure this will get gummed up before the racor, Never had to change either and I am going on three seasons of heavy fuel consumption. I do drain the water every other week by just opening up the pea**** which is real easy and takes seconds. Most gas stations have a filter to take out the crud before it hits your tank. Getting the water out is the important thing.

Capt. Marc
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
just picked up the raycor with the clear plastic bottom & pet**** , a good thang. worth the extra couple bucks to see the water & drain it without having unscrew the whole filter,
thanks for the replys
 

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First of all let me start by saying I also have a seperator on my boat. Now if I trailer all the time and only fill up at gas stations vs. marinas why do I need one. Is there a water gas seperator in my car? While I agree that it's cheap insurance is it even necessary? Do you guys notice a lot of water in the bottom of your filters? Just curious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It makes it's way in there. Trolling for the day or just crusing maybe the vent gets splashed, a rare fill up @ a marina with maybe questionable gas also I think just condensation where a car is used much more often & not an issue.
Ive taken sand and filings out of my 90 Johnsons filter { the engine's filter} that had it sputtering so the gas filteration aspect of it alone makes it worth while I think.
I went without them also on a few boats but did see water in my last one. I think the deal is if you gas up on the water all the time you almost HAVE to have one.
 

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Inboard tanks are prone to alot
of condensation. Hot days-cool nights. thats why they tell you to fill the tank before you put her to bed for the winter. the same go's for the rest of the year. less air in the tank means less water in the fuel.
 

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I have a 89 70hp Yamaha and love it. Last year it swallowed some bad gas. I wanted to rip out the metal belly tank and replace it with a plastic one. After I got the floor and rug out and viewing the tank mountings, I replaced the floor and rug and left the tank. I will definitely be putting a gas/water seperator in this year after I get the carburators rebuilt but not certain which seperator either. I did learn one trick to drain the tank. My fuel supply line comes up to a fitting in the transom bulkhead. Disconnect the usually 3/8"s fuel line and stick it through the boats drain plug hole. Buy yourself a 5-6 gas tank (K-Mart 6 bucks)and drain the gas at the end of the season. You have to start the siphoning. I used a hand pump,K-Mart$12 bucks. Use a large funnel with a screen at the bottom. Put the boat's gas in your car a couple gallons at a time after you fill up. Beleive me mine had water and some other crud but it never effected the car. Then refill the boat. Do this again at the beginning of the season. That should eliminate most of your condensation problems. Even after doing all this still put the seperator on. All it takes is one bad tank of gas to ruin a season. Good luck
 

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I have a 89 70hp Yamaha and love it. Last year it swallowed some bad gas. I wanted to rip out the metal belly tank and replace it with a plastic one. After I got the floor and rug out and viewing the tank mountings, I replaced the floor and rug and left the tank. I will definitely be putting a gas/water seperator in this year after I get the carburators rebuilt but not certain which seperator either. I did learn one trick to drain the tank. My fuel supply line comes up to a fitting in the transom bulkhead. Disconnect the usually 3/8"s fuel line and stick it through the boats drain plug hole. Buy yourself a 5-6 gas tank (K-Mart 6 bucks)and drain the gas at the end of the season. You have to start the siphoning. I used a hand pump,K-Mart$12 bucks. Use a large funnel with a screen at the bottom. Put the boat's gas in your car a couple gallons at a time after you fill up. Beleive me mine had water and some other crud but it never effected the car. Then refill the boat. Do this again at the beginning of the season. That should eliminate most of your condensation problems. Even after doing all this still put the seperator on. All it takes is one bad tank of gas to ruin a season. Good luck
 
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