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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

Trollin, trollin trollin, keep those spoons a rollin....

hehehehehe I crack myself up sometimes ;)

OK, we are officially back in business, we're ready to go. Now, how in the heck are you going to get that BIG brown or laker?

For me? Two things, trolling or bait.

Trolling is an artform, you have to have the right equipment, the right lures, and an extinsive knowledge of your fishing area. I spend many hours figuring out patterns and locations before I even go. I study lake topo maps for hours, adding my own details in cases, to put the big puzzle together. Here's a few short cuts to trolling.

1) Know where you going. You dont want to find that shallow reef with your lures. Plan your trolling patterns ahead of time. Know what depths you want to achive and how your going to get there (wire, leadcore, dipsy, downrigger, planerboard).

2) Watch your fishfinder, this will tell you many things. What depth bait is located? are fish schooling up or being loners? No sense in putting your lures 15' down if all the action is at 45'. Dont ever say to yourself that since you havn't seen anything on the screen that its a dead day. I've had days with no action on the screen yet one fish after another in the boat, and others where I was marking fish all day, yet couldnt buy a bite.

3)Dont be afraid to ask. "Hey how many colors out?", "What size spoon?". Your fellow anglers can cut alot of the guess work out for you.

4) Keep trying. Trout are very finicky, they look for certin aspects in their meals. Speed, size, action, color. Somedays is easy, silver spoon, three colors out, fast speed, fish all day. Somedays you'll have to change what your doing after every fish. Speed up, slow down, s-turns, all of these help your lures do those magical things that fool fish.

Bait fishn

I love bait, fish love bait.

Your bait rig can make or break you when it come to trout. With trolling your triggering the "got to eat it before it gets away", with bait, your letting the fish make up its own mind, at its own pace. I keep my rigs as simple as possible. I dont want extra beads or swivels spooking whats already a spooky fish.

With bait rigs you going to be fishing one of three ways. Deep, medium, or shallow. I fish each range differently.

Deep is anything over 60'. In some reservoirs your talking 100 to 120' deep!! Usually lakers are the target, but browns will cruise that deep occasionally. Keeping contact with your bait is key. The new low stretch lines coupled with a long florocarbon leader will greatly increase you odds at these depths. It is very hard to maintain your proper depth at these ranges, using heavier wieghts (1/2 to 1 oz) will help. Keeping your drift speed down is the factor you'll want to consintrate on. You want to key in on keeping you bait slighly above the fish.

The Medium range will produce more fish then any other range. This is the 25' to 60' range. I use lighter weights and lighter lb test for leaders. I often find that using a conventional, or bait casting reel will greatly increase you chances here. Being able to freespool, at the fish's pace, will keep them from feeling your presence, and then spitting your bait. Spinning reels need to have some sort of line release attached to them, or loosening the drag enough to allow freespool once the fish takes off with your bait. The biggest problen with spinning reels is line twist, and once you open the bail, the weight will drop. If your fishing 35' down over 110' feet of water, your sinker is heading to the bottom if its on a slide rig, the fish will feel it, and before you know it your reeling in a freshly scaled bait.

Shallow is the hardest way to bait fish for trout. Your dealing with the clearest part of the lake. Boat noise, bright sun, all are working agianst you. But all of my bigger fish have come from this 5 to 25' range. To keep my bait in this range, and have some control over his movements, I use a "Float Rig". My float rig consist of a long leader 4-6lb test, a swivel, and a sliding float pegged at the deepest depth I want my bait to go down. Yes, I'll peg it 25' above the bait somedays.
The only tricky part is removing the peg to get a fish in. Let him tire out before attempting to remove the peg. With one hand grab the float, use your teeth to remove the peg, and then go back to fighting your fish. Seems hard, but after you do it once, it'll be easy.

OK that about does it.

Seeya out there!

· Registered
31 Posts
Thanks for sharing!

So "no name"

First, thanks for sharing that mouthful. DO you use flashers for lake or big browns? Ever try an umbrella rig full of hookless gummies with a larger
gummie (with hook ;) )as the target biat?


· Registered
173 Posts
Hey Crash try the sliding bobbers with bobber stops. The bobber slides and stops where you set the stop along your line. When you reel the rig in the bobber slides along your line and the bobber stop gets wound up on the reels spool. They sell them at Cabellas and bass pro if you can't find them in your local shop.You won't have to do your peg removal dance. it also makes the whole rig easy to cast.
Tight lines, Jim

· Registered
191 Posts
Trout trout trout trout trout.....

Hey Chummed,

yeah, I've tried small flashers, Lake trolls, squids, tinsel flys. They will work somedays and others you'll be wondering if they forgot to stock the lake.

I keep going back to my standbys.

Heres a good one if you dont care about size.

Leadcore, 3-5 colors out. 25' floro leader, big, black, wooly bugger, drifting slow.


I use slip bobbers all the time when I'm casting bait (Thills are my favorites), BUT when I'm slow drifting bait I go with the pegged float so it dosn't slid down the line to the bait. The whole idea is to keep the bait at one depth.

Only two boats on West Branch??? Geeezsh ya think theyd be a whole marina full of boats out there?

PPssssttt....If you want to get a good idea of what the bottom of east branch looks like, now is the time...almost completly empty.
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