I HAD A 23 FT. FIBERGLASS BOAT GIVEN TO ME AND IT HAD BEEN 1/4 TO 1/2 SUNK FOR SOME TIME. THE TILT PISTON ON THE 115 JOHNSON ABOUT ROTTED OFF.WE PULLED THE MOTOR OFF AND THE WOOD AROUND THE BOLTS LOOK OK. WHAT ELSE SHOULD WE LOOK FOR? ALL INFO WILL HELP!!!!
TRANSOM ROT !
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Transom Rot
As for the engine: For starters - if the powerhead of that engine was sunk or got water in it somehow, becuase it was too close to the waterline etc.. the powerhead needs to be pulled and should be dissasembled and cleaned immeadiatly. If it has water in it for almost any length of time and is not actually taken apart, just about every internal component will be destroyed due to corrosion. If you think the engine is OK, be sure to pull the plugs out before you try turning it over, as water in the cylinder will damage rods, possibly bearings or even crank journals - this happens becuase water does not compress like air.
As for the boat: I'm confused about the title "transom rot" and that you said the holes form the bolts had solid wood around them. To test for rot, got around with a rubber mallet, tapping on the glass should give you a sharp sound - areas that give a dull thud, or are mushy etc.. are rotted. To replace a rotted transom it takes some time and a little knowledge - only you can decide if it's worth it etc..
Crash course on transom repair: The way it's done, if you cannot just cut a section away and slide the wood out from above (some fiberglass boats and aluminum ones are easy like that) is to use a router and route away the entire outside layer where the wooden transom actually is. Get all the wood & junk material away - clean it and dry completely - install new wood - 2 layers of 3/4 marine grade plywood epoxied and screwed together works well for 1.5 inch transoms. Use cloth and 2 part epoxy on wood, all sides, before installation. Glue into place and then epoxy/cloth on outside - sand etc.. Done.
As far as determining general condition of the boat - look everywhere- bilges, floor etc.. pay special attention looking for delamination. If you can get to the floatation, see if it has become water-logged. You may have to cut some sections of floor out etc.. to replace soaked foam as it adds weight and holds water in etc.. Keep in mind most smaller fiberglass boats of much age aren't worth much without engines/trailors etc.. and it's pretty easy to find them in decent shape for cheap $$.
Jon
As for the engine: For starters - if the powerhead of that engine was sunk or got water in it somehow, becuase it was too close to the waterline etc.. the powerhead needs to be pulled and should be dissasembled and cleaned immeadiatly. If it has water in it for almost any length of time and is not actually taken apart, just about every internal component will be destroyed due to corrosion. If you think the engine is OK, be sure to pull the plugs out before you try turning it over, as water in the cylinder will damage rods, possibly bearings or even crank journals - this happens becuase water does not compress like air.
As for the boat: I'm confused about the title "transom rot" and that you said the holes form the bolts had solid wood around them. To test for rot, got around with a rubber mallet, tapping on the glass should give you a sharp sound - areas that give a dull thud, or are mushy etc.. are rotted. To replace a rotted transom it takes some time and a little knowledge - only you can decide if it's worth it etc..
Crash course on transom repair: The way it's done, if you cannot just cut a section away and slide the wood out from above (some fiberglass boats and aluminum ones are easy like that) is to use a router and route away the entire outside layer where the wooden transom actually is. Get all the wood & junk material away - clean it and dry completely - install new wood - 2 layers of 3/4 marine grade plywood epoxied and screwed together works well for 1.5 inch transoms. Use cloth and 2 part epoxy on wood, all sides, before installation. Glue into place and then epoxy/cloth on outside - sand etc.. Done.
As far as determining general condition of the boat - look everywhere- bilges, floor etc.. pay special attention looking for delamination. If you can get to the floatation, see if it has become water-logged. You may have to cut some sections of floor out etc.. to replace soaked foam as it adds weight and holds water in etc.. Keep in mind most smaller fiberglass boats of much age aren't worth much without engines/trailors etc.. and it's pretty easy to find them in decent shape for cheap $$.
Jon
Joined
·
4,148 Posts
Transom Rot
As for the engine: For starters - if the powerhead of that engine was sunk or got water in it somehow, becuase it was too close to the waterline etc.. the powerhead needs to be pulled and should be dissasembled and cleaned immeadiatly. If it has water in it for almost any length of time and is not actually taken apart, just about every internal component will be destroyed due to corrosion. If you think the engine is OK, be sure to pull the plugs out before you try turning it over, as water in the cylinder will damage rods, possibly bearings or even crank journals - this happens becuase water does not compress like air.
As for the boat: I'm confused about the title "transom rot" and that you said the holes form the bolts had solid wood around them. To test for rot, got around with a rubber mallet, tapping on the glass should give you a sharp sound - areas that give a dull thud, or are mushy etc.. are rotted. To replace a rotted transom it takes some time and a little knowledge - only you can decide if it's worth it etc..
Crash course on transom repair: The way it's done, if you cannot just cut a section away and slide the wood out from above (some fiberglass boats and aluminum ones are easy like that) is to use a router and route away the entire outside layer where the wooden transom actually is. Get all the wood & junk material away - clean it and dry completely - install new wood - 2 layers of 3/4 marine grade plywood epoxied and screwed together works well for 1.5 inch transoms. Use cloth and 2 part epoxy on wood, all sides, before installation. Glue into place and then epoxy/cloth on outside - sand etc.. Done.
As far as determining general condition of the boat - look everywhere- bilges, floor etc.. pay special attention looking for delamination. If you can get to the floatation, see if it has become water-logged. You may have to cut some sections of floor out etc.. to replace soaked foam as it adds weight and holds water in etc.. Keep in mind most smaller fiberglass boats of much age aren't worth much without engines/trailors etc.. and it's pretty easy to find them in decent shape for cheap $$.
Jon
As for the engine: For starters - if the powerhead of that engine was sunk or got water in it somehow, becuase it was too close to the waterline etc.. the powerhead needs to be pulled and should be dissasembled and cleaned immeadiatly. If it has water in it for almost any length of time and is not actually taken apart, just about every internal component will be destroyed due to corrosion. If you think the engine is OK, be sure to pull the plugs out before you try turning it over, as water in the cylinder will damage rods, possibly bearings or even crank journals - this happens becuase water does not compress like air.
As for the boat: I'm confused about the title "transom rot" and that you said the holes form the bolts had solid wood around them. To test for rot, got around with a rubber mallet, tapping on the glass should give you a sharp sound - areas that give a dull thud, or are mushy etc.. are rotted. To replace a rotted transom it takes some time and a little knowledge - only you can decide if it's worth it etc..
Crash course on transom repair: The way it's done, if you cannot just cut a section away and slide the wood out from above (some fiberglass boats and aluminum ones are easy like that) is to use a router and route away the entire outside layer where the wooden transom actually is. Get all the wood & junk material away - clean it and dry completely - install new wood - 2 layers of 3/4 marine grade plywood epoxied and screwed together works well for 1.5 inch transoms. Use cloth and 2 part epoxy on wood, all sides, before installation. Glue into place and then epoxy/cloth on outside - sand etc.. Done.
As far as determining general condition of the boat - look everywhere- bilges, floor etc.. pay special attention looking for delamination. If you can get to the floatation, see if it has become water-logged. You may have to cut some sections of floor out etc.. to replace soaked foam as it adds weight and holds water in etc.. Keep in mind most smaller fiberglass boats of much age aren't worth much without engines/trailors etc.. and it's pretty easy to find them in decent shape for cheap $$.
Jon
Joined
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1,192 Posts
Check this out
If you are a Boston Whaler fan, or
a boating angler take a look at
this site. Go the the site, Click on "Boost the Boat" and enjoy the video. I guarantee you will watch it twice.
http://content.surfline.com/sw/content/
video/index.jsp
All the best, fishinsurfer
If you are a Boston Whaler fan, or
a boating angler take a look at
this site. Go the the site, Click on "Boost the Boat" and enjoy the video. I guarantee you will watch it twice.
http://content.surfline.com/sw/content/
video/index.jsp
All the best, fishinsurfer
JON,FISHINSURFER THANKS!
JON I KNEW THE MOTOR WASN'T MUCH. THE TRANSOM CLAMP IS ABOUT GONE AND LOW COMP. IN ONE CYL. WILL BE LOOKING FOR A 150 - 200 HP OVER THE WINTER THIS IS WHY I NEEDED TO KNOW TRANSOM CONDTION.
THANKS AGAIN.
...OLDBAYRAT...
JON I KNEW THE MOTOR WASN'T MUCH. THE TRANSOM CLAMP IS ABOUT GONE AND LOW COMP. IN ONE CYL. WILL BE LOOKING FOR A 150 - 200 HP OVER THE WINTER THIS IS WHY I NEEDED TO KNOW TRANSOM CONDTION.
THANKS AGAIN.
...OLDBAYRAT...
You can definitely repair any damage. I purchased a 1974 Wellcraft 3 years ago, and discovered serious rot in the transom after the first season. After drying my tears, I searched the web and found some great info. I completely replaced the wood core of the transom, without cutting any glass.
The following link has everything you need to know:
http://www.rotdoctor.com/
Good luck!
The following link has everything you need to know:
http://www.rotdoctor.com/
Good luck!
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