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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
few years back I installed a raymarine c80 with 4kw dome gps ant. and the dsm 300 the one part i never finished was the transducer i got a in hull but when moveing it around to find a place it just never read right. I have a thru hull (large) that use to be used for a furuno crt was thinking of haveing it removed and a new one for the raymarine put in its place any thoughts on this.? Also what would you think this would cost me???
 

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depending on labor rate and 600 or 1kw transducer could run upwards of 1500 bucks.

i did my own install with the exceptiion of angle cutting the airmar block and it was still pushing 1000 bucks for a 1kw unit.
 

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transducer

Reeladdiction...

Check out the new xducr from Raymarine...

B60 series is a thru-hull transducer which dosen't require a fairing block. It mounts thru the hull like a regular fitting but has a leveling "EYE" built into it..there are two different units...

1) 8 to 15 degrees

2) 16 to 24 degrees

find out what the deadrise of your hull is where the ducer will be mounted and choose which one works for you...these new transducers are both bunk and roller safe if anyone is conserned about thru hull transducers and trailering there boats...No need for fairing block with this style..thats why they make two different units depending on the hulls deadrise...

They retail for $279.99 and I must have sold about 6 this past weekend for West Marine during there tent sale in West Islip, NY

These ducers will work with DSM300

just trying to help...
 

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reeladdiction wrote:
its a solid hull i have a 27 phoenix built like a tank maybe thats why the in hull didnt seem to work i never installed it just moved it around and never got any readings maybe i was doing something wrong...Just to check- Was the boat in the water when you tested it, and was the transducer submerged in water in the hull? If not, then you didn't test it.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the boat was in the water and no other then the litle bit of bilge water i just moved it around the bottom its a plastic in hull from raymarine not sure how good it is they through it in when i ordered the package i wasnt worried about temp because i have 2 temp sensors on in my furuno 1650 and another designated temp only on dash....
 

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Use your old hole

If you have an old Furuno ducer in there now find the modle number and try and get the same size hole usually they are standard sizes
Next Air maire makes the ducers for Raymarine so thye are all the same except for wiring configuration to the back of the unit and power and elemements

This is the basic 600w model and do use a fairing block, Even though they make eyeball units the block helps elimante wash and itnerference

option 1
600 Watt Bronze through hull transducer with depth speed and temperature. Includes high speed fairing(B744V)
MSRP: $410.00 U.S. Dollars
They have this in a Vand Vl model depending onthe size of the shaft

option 2
1000 Watt High Performance bronze through hull transducer with temperature. (B25
Fairing block included
MSRP: $800.00 U.S. Dollars
This has less elements then the commercial B260 but fo rthe money it is a 1000w ducer and my choice unless money is not an issue
you can go with the B256 as well but the 258 is the newer model
option 3 the best one
1000 Watt Ultra-High Performance "Broadband" bronze through hull transducer with temperature. Includes fairing block (B260)
MSRP: $1,100.00 U.S. Dollars
This babay has the most elements and the best picture for yuor unit
This also needs like 24" to mount and weighs around 30 lbs
the next modle up is the same ducer but in a SS model
1000 Watt Ultra High Performance stainless steel through hull transducer with temperature. (SS560) Fairing block included
MSRP: $1,470.00 U.S. Dollars

Like i stated these are all standard Airmar ducers
If you need mor einfo Pm me on the matter but I think your best choic eis to remove your old one in there now and match the ducer and install the new block would work fine

As far as the shoot thriu there is amny factors that will prevent you from it working correctly
number one is the hull type, and the othe ris the way you tried it was incorrect will not work with any air between the bottom of the ducer and the null.
You need to silicone it in and keep pressure on till it dries
A quick fix we used to do was get clay and wedge it agaisnt a stringer and build it up and put the ducer in the clay this will give you a decent picture to test location of placement

But you have thru hull already so fill in the whole with a new one
Laboe to do that should be from 2 to 3 hrs so figure 100 per hrs plus your haul and the price of the ducer

This post edited by togmaster 08:36 AM 03/20/2008
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
know anyone who does it would that include the running of the wire and removal of old transducer? how big of a diff would there be between the 600 and 1000 only reason i ask is that i dont really canyon fish its more of a shark fishing and trolling boat on the inshore out to about 5o miles plus i need new cushions which will set me back some the boat is on blocks for the winter already so that part is taken care of...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
also would i notice the diff between the in hull and the 600w my big issue is that the furuno ducer is huge afraid of knocking it off on boat transprt etc plus i dont use it anymore got rid of the crt now its collecting dust in garage
 

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huge

The Furuno is the 1k watt ducer i told you about
It may be cheaper to go for the new ducer with an exact replacement then to fiberglass the old hole and then drill again

Where are you located? I can reccommned a place if Freeport

As far as 600 to 1k you will see only a slight differnece for top water bottom is where the more elements will out produce

In all honesty it is not a big job and the most ecpensive part is the ducer. pm me and i'll give you the info you need as well as try and get you a better price on the ducer
 
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