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154 Posts
she wont go over 3000rpm wtf
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1,027 Posts
i would start by asking you how is the bottom is it full of barnikel . with the weather and the water temp so hot, if you leave your boat for a week without move it, that might be your problem. two weeks ago i took my boat i was only getting a 2000 rpm with only 7 knots on my gps, i raise up my drive and my prop and lower unit was cover in grouth, i clean as much as i could took the boat for a spin and got 20 knots. so take a look at that. good luck.
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1,174 Posts
If you deside to break out the lighter fluid let me know, I got one that can go with it 
We'll make a pact.... you light mine and I'll light yours........... Then we'll drag them out to sea and start our own reef..... I'll even let you name it
We'll make a pact.... you light mine and I'll light yours........... Then we'll drag them out to sea and start our own reef..... I'll even let you name it
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154 Posts
No growth,the engine is not missing I rased the rpms to 1200 and pulled one plug at a time to feel the motor shake each time.When I try to go over 3k I get a funny noise and it seems to get louder but no speed gain and no rpm gain.Also in gear and about 1200 i notice a shake.thanks for the help guys
Mitch
Mitch
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154 Posts
Checked for a miss again found one wire not responding to being removed from distributer found terminal broked off at the plug replaced wire ran it still the same problem.When trying to go past 3000 the motor gets louder but no rpm change and no speed change.I do get a hollow type noise similar to the noise you get when you floor it and the boat takes off before you plain off deep throaty hollow noise and a load jingeling noise that only starts off at 3000 and gets louder as you push to try to get past 3000.Got back to the dock checked the valves on the head i had the valve job done on they were a little loose adjusted and and restarted sounds a little better didnt go back out will tomorrow.also had ing. wire issues loosening up in the past so i sodered everything i could all tight .Thanks again Mitch
"deep throaty hollow noise and a load jingeling noise" - could it be lean at top end, and that jingling noise is detonation?
Maybe try changing your fuel filter(s), check the filter screen at the carb inlet, and if you have any water separator, check that.
Sounds like it could be starving for fuel at the top end. That would also make sense, considering it revs past 3000 in neutral - running under load requires more fuel, so maybe you're just not getting enough fuel for top end.
If you run it at like 2500 or 2800 RPM, and then floor it, does it "bog"? I'm thinking that bogging is what's happening when you hear that "deep hollow sound".
The jingling noise could be detonation, due to an overly lean condition. Don't run it like that for extended periods of time, you could damage things.
Have you checked your spark plugs? What do they look like (color)? Do they look different on any of the cylinders? Do you know how to read plugs at all? If not just google it, you'll see what I'm talking about - you need to look at the color of the porcelin insulator in the center of the plug.
Good luck, keep us updated.
Maybe try changing your fuel filter(s), check the filter screen at the carb inlet, and if you have any water separator, check that.
Sounds like it could be starving for fuel at the top end. That would also make sense, considering it revs past 3000 in neutral - running under load requires more fuel, so maybe you're just not getting enough fuel for top end.
If you run it at like 2500 or 2800 RPM, and then floor it, does it "bog"? I'm thinking that bogging is what's happening when you hear that "deep hollow sound".
The jingling noise could be detonation, due to an overly lean condition. Don't run it like that for extended periods of time, you could damage things.
Have you checked your spark plugs? What do they look like (color)? Do they look different on any of the cylinders? Do you know how to read plugs at all? If not just google it, you'll see what I'm talking about - you need to look at the color of the porcelin insulator in the center of the plug.
Good luck, keep us updated.
another idea
Do you know if you have a vacuum advance distributor or a centrifugal advance distributor?
If it's centrifugal, then you'd have the same problem in neutral as you would in gear (spark advance is directly related to RPM for centrifugal advance distributors).
But if it's vacuum advance, you could have a problem getting full spark advance under load, but not in neutral (less vacuum in neutral).
So, it's just another idea, if you have a vacuum advance distributor, then it's possible that you are not getting full advance - you could have some kind of vacuum leak in the tube going to the advance mechanism on the distributor. If you have centrifugal advance like I do, your problem is not related to the distributor.
Do you know if you have a vacuum advance distributor or a centrifugal advance distributor?
If it's centrifugal, then you'd have the same problem in neutral as you would in gear (spark advance is directly related to RPM for centrifugal advance distributors).
But if it's vacuum advance, you could have a problem getting full spark advance under load, but not in neutral (less vacuum in neutral).
So, it's just another idea, if you have a vacuum advance distributor, then it's possible that you are not getting full advance - you could have some kind of vacuum leak in the tube going to the advance mechanism on the distributor. If you have centrifugal advance like I do, your problem is not related to the distributor.
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154 Posts
Thanks for all the suggestions I replaced cap, rotor,wires and fuel filter at the carb still same problem checked all plugs all burning correctly except one has what they call gap bridging replaced that plug got up to 3500 rpms but the ping got worse.On my way to get fuel seperator and bring timming light to the boat.I have some improvement .I will post findings,Thanks again for all the help
Mitch
Mitch
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618 Posts
As they taught me in school, when all else fails condemn the boat and go to the bar. The hangover will make you forget all about the boat problems.
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154 Posts
I have checked the props.Pulled them and checked the props and shafts all ok.Fuel had a 1/4 tank from f&d's and filled from hess on land .Went down and timmed the motor as close as i could ran it I got 3750 and no ping will try agian with no weight and flat sea.Seems to be good .Thanks again Mitch
cool, let us know how it goes next time you get out...
so what do you think it was? Bad ignition parts, bad fuel, bad timing or a combination of things? What did the timing look like before you adjusted it?
By the way, you said one spark plug had a bridged gap? Do you have a lot of carbon build up inside the cylinder heads, on the valves + pistons? Looks like bridged gap could be due to that also - if so, you might want to try something like seafoam to try to clear out some of the carbon...
I like to follow up on these things, when people post about there problems here...I figure that someday I might have a problem and something that was discussed here might help me get my problem figured out...
so what do you think it was? Bad ignition parts, bad fuel, bad timing or a combination of things? What did the timing look like before you adjusted it?
By the way, you said one spark plug had a bridged gap? Do you have a lot of carbon build up inside the cylinder heads, on the valves + pistons? Looks like bridged gap could be due to that also - if so, you might want to try something like seafoam to try to clear out some of the carbon...
I like to follow up on these things, when people post about there problems here...I figure that someday I might have a problem and something that was discussed here might help me get my problem figured out...
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154 Posts
Unklej, I think it was self inflicted .When i installed the head i broke one plug and replaced it with something the local parts guy had in stock.I was going to replace it with the correct one but never did.Also i broke 2 spark cables and again i replaced with subpar parts .This was the plug that failed and the cables that was missing when they felt like it.also the timming was never set correctley due to no marks on the balancer.I got a timming tape kit so now it is timmed correctly.I also have a starter issue after running it hard if you shut it down and try to restart it would not spin "over heating" .Because if you let it cool 15mins it would restart no problem.This will be fixed today I am going to bring it to the starter guy.And by the way i have been called a DUMB A$$ before.Thanks for all the help i will post next time out.
Mitch
Mitch
mno55 wrote:
I think it was self inflicted
LOL, I think most of us have been there. Glad you got it straightened out.
One question/warning: Ed is definately right about the timing affecting the starting. But, if the starting problem doesn't go away now that the timing's fixed, make sure you aren't getting water leaking back into the engine through the manifolds or risers. There's plenty of other reasons why you could have trouble cranking your engine over (like a bad battery,etc), but the reason I say this is that when I first got my boat, it ran a lot like yours - it made the same pinging/jingling sound, and was hard to crank after running it sometimes. I found 2 main problems - it was super lean on the top end, and I had leaking risers. And the water leaking back into the cylinders can cause hydro-lock and prevent the engine from cranking over.
So anyway, I'm sure that Ed's right on the money on the starting problem, and it'll be fine now that you fixed the timing. BUT, if it's not, make sure you don't see any signs of water getting into the engine (check spark plugs for signs of rust, check oil for signs of water mixed in). If you do have to go that route, + have any questions, post back here or PM me.
I think it was self inflicted
LOL, I think most of us have been there. Glad you got it straightened out.
One question/warning: Ed is definately right about the timing affecting the starting. But, if the starting problem doesn't go away now that the timing's fixed, make sure you aren't getting water leaking back into the engine through the manifolds or risers. There's plenty of other reasons why you could have trouble cranking your engine over (like a bad battery,etc), but the reason I say this is that when I first got my boat, it ran a lot like yours - it made the same pinging/jingling sound, and was hard to crank after running it sometimes. I found 2 main problems - it was super lean on the top end, and I had leaking risers. And the water leaking back into the cylinders can cause hydro-lock and prevent the engine from cranking over.
So anyway, I'm sure that Ed's right on the money on the starting problem, and it'll be fine now that you fixed the timing. BUT, if it's not, make sure you don't see any signs of water getting into the engine (check spark plugs for signs of rust, check oil for signs of water mixed in). If you do have to go that route, + have any questions, post back here or PM me.
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154 Posts
The starter works fine cold .As far as water backing up i dont think so had plugs out no signs.And i had this problem with the starter all season.The starter guy has this sweet midget starter 1/2 the size and weight so no more smashing up the meat hooks..Thanks again guys will post after i road test
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