Rigger kits....
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I only have 1 year with outriggers exp, but,.. save your money and rig them yourself. Heavy mono 300-400 # your crimps, your swivels and a quality release. I'll try to find some good links
this is one you dont want
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taco
This is a decent diagram on how to rig, but use a different release pic
This is the release I like Aftco
youalso want glass rings glass rings and a couple bungee cords
This post edited by Brenainn 06:39 PM 02/17/2008
this is one you dont want
This is a decent diagram on how to rig, but use a different release pic
This is the release I like Aftco
youalso want glass rings glass rings and a couple bungee cords
This post edited by Brenainn 06:39 PM 02/17/2008
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4,148 Posts
I agree - kits are a waste of $$ and typically don't even set you up correctly.
1. Get any mono that is cheap and over 130 lb test, the heavier the mono the longer it'll last, it's not about actual breaking strength. I use leftover lengths off bulk spools.. next time you are at a tackle shop ask and they probably will just give you 50 yards for free.. use whatever crimps you've got hanging around that fit (even if they are not the right size strength is not an issue if they can be crunched to fit)..
2. Glass eyes, nothing fancy - don't annoy yourself with the pulleys, they are useless and only create a failure point.
3. Bungee cords, nothing fancy just plastic (so they don't rust) walmart grade, crows-foot to your hardtop frame or hook them to the securing point you plan to use on the boat - then just hook 'em to the glass eye - good heavy generic bungges work better than anything sold for outriggers and they allow you to very easily twist the line around and run it back over the hook to prevent the clips from walking down the rigger..
4. Blacks outrigger clips - They are like $10 and can take a huge range of release settings; there are more sophisticated clips out there but not all of them can be turned up to handle squid bars and baits that create alot of drag.. blacks clips work and are cheap, other clips work better but tend to fail.
5. A couple heavy snap swivels per rigger, nothing fancy just something to allow easy replacement of the clips and/or glass eye; the snap swivels go on each side of the clip (if the clip isn't equipped with snaps)..
6. snubbers - anything works, cork, plastic, whatever is cheap - anything that will keep the rigging from getting into and jammed on the eye on the outrigger - these go on each side of the gizmo's associated with the clip
Jon
1. Get any mono that is cheap and over 130 lb test, the heavier the mono the longer it'll last, it's not about actual breaking strength. I use leftover lengths off bulk spools.. next time you are at a tackle shop ask and they probably will just give you 50 yards for free.. use whatever crimps you've got hanging around that fit (even if they are not the right size strength is not an issue if they can be crunched to fit)..
2. Glass eyes, nothing fancy - don't annoy yourself with the pulleys, they are useless and only create a failure point.
3. Bungee cords, nothing fancy just plastic (so they don't rust) walmart grade, crows-foot to your hardtop frame or hook them to the securing point you plan to use on the boat - then just hook 'em to the glass eye - good heavy generic bungges work better than anything sold for outriggers and they allow you to very easily twist the line around and run it back over the hook to prevent the clips from walking down the rigger..
4. Blacks outrigger clips - They are like $10 and can take a huge range of release settings; there are more sophisticated clips out there but not all of them can be turned up to handle squid bars and baits that create alot of drag.. blacks clips work and are cheap, other clips work better but tend to fail.
5. A couple heavy snap swivels per rigger, nothing fancy just something to allow easy replacement of the clips and/or glass eye; the snap swivels go on each side of the clip (if the clip isn't equipped with snaps)..
6. snubbers - anything works, cork, plastic, whatever is cheap - anything that will keep the rigging from getting into and jammed on the eye on the outrigger - these go on each side of the gizmo's associated with the clip
Jon
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I'll third that, forget the "kits" and just get the stuff you need and rig them up yourself. I like the old style Aftco roller trollers for realeases and have a pully type of double roller at the end that attaches to the boat. I rig with 300-400 pound mono with snap swivels on each end to make the connection to the releases, makes it easier to change out things. A few bucks worth of crimps and you're set to go.
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I like the Rupp knock out clips, they are roller type like the Atco's but they have a rough and fine adjustment screw. I put two of them on per halyard with 12" of 400lb mono between them.
I don't do the main rigging with mono, when the temperature changes they get saggy.
I don't do the main rigging with mono, when the temperature changes they get saggy.
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76 Posts
I have mine rigged with double haylocks and 400lb pre-stretched mono. The problem I have is that the the lines get twisted because the upper and lower rigger lines go through the first eye on the rigger and are difficult to pull up and down without significant tension on the rigger. Anyone else have this problem? I also use the aftco clips, the newer one with the slide on the side. Very difficult to change. Liked the older style better.
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Callipygian wrote:
I have mine rigged with double haylocks and 400lb pre-stretched mono. The problem I have is that the the lines get twisted because the upper and lower rigger lines go through the first eye on the rigger and are difficult to pull up and down without significant tension on the rigger. Anyone else have this problem? I also use the aftco clips, the newer one with the slide on the side. Very difficult to change. Liked the older style better.
IMHO you probably twisted the two lines when you put them on. I have a similar set up and have problem with tension on the lines or the lines twisting. You can still buy the older style AFTCO's. AFTCO got so many complaints they are now producing the roller trollers in both styles.
I have mine rigged with double haylocks and 400lb pre-stretched mono. The problem I have is that the the lines get twisted because the upper and lower rigger lines go through the first eye on the rigger and are difficult to pull up and down without significant tension on the rigger. Anyone else have this problem? I also use the aftco clips, the newer one with the slide on the side. Very difficult to change. Liked the older style better.
IMHO you probably twisted the two lines when you put them on. I have a similar set up and have problem with tension on the lines or the lines twisting. You can still buy the older style AFTCO's. AFTCO got so many complaints they are now producing the roller trollers in both styles.
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245 Posts
Hal-Locks
I would also stick with the consensus here and not get a kit... Cost is one thing, but for me, being able to customize your kit is worth it as well. I rigged my 30' rupp riggers new last year, and I have nok-outs on the long riggers and blacks on the short riggers. Also, instead of the junk double pulley, I opted for the double Hal-Lock locking halyard. Those are one of the best things that I have put on my boat. They are easy to work with and stop that constant "creeping" of your rigger lines. Especially handy when you are using heavy bars or bird rigs. Hal-Locks, gotta get em!!
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I would also stick with the consensus here and not get a kit... Cost is one thing, but for me, being able to customize your kit is worth it as well. I rigged my 30' rupp riggers new last year, and I have nok-outs on the long riggers and blacks on the short riggers. Also, instead of the junk double pulley, I opted for the double Hal-Lock locking halyard. Those are one of the best things that I have put on my boat. They are easy to work with and stop that constant "creeping" of your rigger lines. Especially handy when you are using heavy bars or bird rigs. Hal-Locks, gotta get em!!
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Have had Hallocks on the boat for about 5 years now and they work well. I use Dacron or parachute cord for the line and use swivels on teh end for adjustments to the line for different weather. Rupp Knockouts for at least the last 12 years!
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In Salt Water Sportsman 2 months ago they had a reader idea to use long liner clips to heep the halyards from creeping. The clips were crimped to 400lb mono to keep them from getting lost and the mono was cripped to the bungee. Looks like a lot easier and less expensive way to go than the Halocks.
I fished a friends boat last summer who had the Halock/mono setup and I didn't like it at all but it was the mono I didn't like most. Do they make halocks to fit parachute cord? I think they would work well with 500lb hollow core but that could be a little hard on the fingers.
I fished a friends boat last summer who had the Halock/mono setup and I didn't like it at all but it was the mono I didn't like most. Do they make halocks to fit parachute cord? I think they would work well with 500lb hollow core but that could be a little hard on the fingers.
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245 Posts
The Hal-Locks are designed to crimp down on whatever you are running through them...its a rubber/rubber friction that holds your halyard in place, so I would assume that whatever you are running through them would hold nicely. I got the hal-locks because running heavy bars and other junk was getting annoying for me to constantly yank on the halyards to keep the lines out to max width ( I have some OCD tendencies, and it pisses me off when the lines creep in).
Best of Luck, and remember, don't pull your old halyards out of the riggers until you attach the new line to them first!
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Best of Luck, and remember, don't pull your old halyards out of the riggers until you attach the new line to them first!
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786 Posts
PAULN wrote:
Chris- I need you to help me restring the outriggers on my boat. Let me know when you are ready..........
Anytime Paul! Im away in Costa Rica with the CR crew next weekend but good before and after - just workin on the boat in the shed. New electronics, lights, etc. Tell Leonardi to just buy a boat already!!!
Chris- I need you to help me restring the outriggers on my boat. Let me know when you are ready..........
Anytime Paul! Im away in Costa Rica with the CR crew next weekend but good before and after - just workin on the boat in the shed. New electronics, lights, etc. Tell Leonardi to just buy a boat already!!!
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103 Posts
I don?t like mono on halyard lines for riggers. Mono stretches, breaks down in UV and is slippery. I us a 3/16 solid core braided nylon line (like parachute cord) for halyards. Far outlasts mono and is much easier to handle with wet hands, and can be tensioned tight to eliminate halyard creep with heavy baits and bars.
I ?upgraded? release clips to the new style AFTCO roller trollers and I absolutely hate them. They don?t consistently release and are a pain to adjust. I have tried filing the release mechanism with some improvement, but I still think I am going back to Rupp knockout style for the heavier bars an adding a Black release clips about a foot above to position a single lure/ballyhoo behind the spreader bar. I run double halyards on my outriggers and use the barrel swivel tensioning technique. I never have a problem with halyard creeping using the nylon cord tensioned tight. I like to use quality pulleys to ease the deployment when the halyards are pulled tight. You want to oversize the pulleys so the barrel swivel tensioner can be retrieved through the pulley so you can work the clip in the ****pit without having to hang over the side.
Check out this link for this example of outrigger rigging. Basically the same setup as I described, but I do a few things different for my style of outriggers and baits.
Link added...
http://www.georgepoveromo.com/nononsenserigger.htm
http://www.georgepoveromo.com/nononsenserigger.htm
This post edited by cantowm 01:18 PM 02/23/2008
I ?upgraded? release clips to the new style AFTCO roller trollers and I absolutely hate them. They don?t consistently release and are a pain to adjust. I have tried filing the release mechanism with some improvement, but I still think I am going back to Rupp knockout style for the heavier bars an adding a Black release clips about a foot above to position a single lure/ballyhoo behind the spreader bar. I run double halyards on my outriggers and use the barrel swivel tensioning technique. I never have a problem with halyard creeping using the nylon cord tensioned tight. I like to use quality pulleys to ease the deployment when the halyards are pulled tight. You want to oversize the pulleys so the barrel swivel tensioner can be retrieved through the pulley so you can work the clip in the ****pit without having to hang over the side.
Check out this link for this example of outrigger rigging. Basically the same setup as I described, but I do a few things different for my style of outriggers and baits.
Link added...
http://www.georgepoveromo.com/nononsenserigger.htm
http://www.georgepoveromo.com/nononsenserigger.htm
This post edited by cantowm 01:18 PM 02/23/2008
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57 Posts
This is how I set mine up. 400 Mono, its better than cord. Aftco Flat Line Clip get the metal adjustment ones, much better. I use halocks there great get your self some. every winter i take down the clips and coat them with wd40, and put them out of the sun wrapped in a paper towel. Once im done fishing I clip the halyards to each other this way the clips are not getting beaten around for hours runing to and from the fishing grounds.
In the future i will be color coding my halyards.
In the future i will be color coding my halyards.
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