I agree - kits are a waste of $$ and typically don't even set you up correctly.
1. Get any mono that is cheap and over 130 lb test, the heavier the mono the longer it'll last, it's not about actual breaking strength. I use leftover lengths off bulk spools.. next time you are at a tackle shop ask and they probably will just give you 50 yards for free.. use whatever crimps you've got hanging around that fit (even if they are not the right size strength is not an issue if they can be crunched to fit)..
2. Glass eyes, nothing fancy - don't annoy yourself with the pulleys, they are useless and only create a failure point.
3. Bungee cords, nothing fancy just plastic (so they don't rust) walmart grade, crows-foot to your hardtop frame or hook them to the securing point you plan to use on the boat - then just hook 'em to the glass eye - good heavy generic bungges work better than anything sold for outriggers and they allow you to very easily twist the line around and run it back over the hook to prevent the clips from walking down the rigger..
4. Blacks outrigger clips - They are like $10 and can take a huge range of release settings; there are more sophisticated clips out there but not all of them can be turned up to handle squid bars and baits that create alot of drag.. blacks clips work and are cheap, other clips work better but tend to fail.
5. A couple heavy snap swivels per rigger, nothing fancy just something to allow easy replacement of the clips and/or glass eye; the snap swivels go on each side of the clip (if the clip isn't equipped with snaps)..
6. snubbers - anything works, cork, plastic, whatever is cheap - anything that will keep the rigging from getting into and jammed on the eye on the outrigger - these go on each side of the gizmo's associated with the clip