[trafik]

Hi all,
Thinking ahead for the season and have, for several reasons, decided to trailer the boat this year rather than slip it. I presently have a single axle EZ Loader roller trailer without brakes. I have replaced many of the rollers, but it just isn't up to the task of hauling my 89 Proline 21 walk (I guess its around 3-3.5K#).

So, now I am looking into purchasing a new or nearly new roller trailer (with working rollers) and a generally longer tongue setup to aid getting the boat in the water w/o wetting the truck.

Any ideas? Venture? EZ? Load-rite?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Trafik

 

[leakyrivot]

trafik wrote:
Hi all,
Thinking ahead for the season and have, for several reasons, decided to trailer the boat this year rather than slip it. I presently have a single axle EZ Loader roller trailer without brakes. I have replaced many of the rollers, but it just isn't up to the task of hauling my 89 Proline 21 walk (I guess its around 3-3.5K#).

So, now I am looking into purchasing a new or nearly new roller trailer (with working rollers) and a generally longer tongue setup to aid getting the boat in the water w/o wetting the truck.

Any ideas? Venture? EZ? Load-rite?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Trafik

Myself, I wouldn't worry about the truck getting wet, that's silly IMHO.. It's a truck man..

As far as the trailer though, unless it's rusting away I think you could spend under $1000 for what you want by just overhauling what you've got. Even lights, bearings, a new jack and such are inexpensive.

That aggravation you are having with the rollers could easily be resolved by converting to bunks. They support the boat better and are much more trouble free. I'd rather have bunks; when my ~100 rollers begin to STB I'm converting to bunks.

They make these simple galv. bunk brackets, which are reasonably priced and make converting quick and simple; you just need a few brackets per bunk, some pressure treated 2X8's, and any carpet scraps you can get your hands on...

If you want rollers though just spend the $$ and replace the rollers and hardware. There are places online and catologs where you get prices 50% off from West Marine and such; it's certainly practical.

As far as the length on the trailer, having the tounge lengthened is inexpensive as well. If you don't know of anyplace, find a shop in the yellow pages that does welding, limo's, leave spring work, blacksmith work, auto-body etc.. Welding steal is simple easy quick work..

Adding a few feet is even something you could do yourself simply by picking up some square tube that is the same size as your existing tounge and a few feet longer - clamp it under the existing tounge with a piece of channel steel over and under using two pieces of threaded rod per clamp set.. if you lack to tools to cut channel any shop that works with steal could custom-build for cheap $$, maybe $100 for 5 pairs of clamps, they are just cut to length and drilled.. threaded rod is dirt cheap at home depot..

Pictured attached for clamping on a tounge extension.

Jon

 

[Lattitudechange]

You shouldn't have to get your truck wet, especially with a roller trailer. If you back in the water too deep you'll have a tougher time getting the boat to center properly. The boat will tend to float half way up the trailer without the keel touching the rear rollers. You want the keel to contact the rear rollers to get it to track right.

As far as trailers go. IMO they are all the same. Square tubing with clamps and a few fenders. They will all break the same. There's a 5 Star dealer near you. Take a look at those. They're made be Load-Rite.
I have two trailers. One is a Load-Rite and the other is a 5 Starr. If I were to do it again, I would buy an aluminum I-beam trailer with bunks. I can list at least 10 reasons why.

 

[trafik]

Thanks Leaky and Lat,
Good advice. As far as the truck getting wet, generally I agree, and didn't mind with my old beater I towed with, but the Jeep I use now is an '06 and my primary driver, so keeping it rust free is a goal.

I was considering a bunk trailer but am not confident it will work at my home ramp (stony brook). It has a shallow ramp angle. A friend did find these boat traxx devices that are supposed to ease loading, but they are costly.

The second reason I am thinking new is that I have a single axle witout brakes and would rather have brakes if I do any longer distances.

My first step will probably be to extend the tongue and see how that works.

See you on th ewater soon!

 

[Flukinicehole]

trafik,
I also have used the Stony Brook boat ramp. I have a 24ft. walk around and I use a bunk trailer. This is the first bunk trailer I have owned and will never go back to a roller. The Stony brook ramp has a rather gradual angle (not steep enough) but I didnt have a problem. If you do get the tires wet just hose them down when you get home it`s no big deal. Or you can go to the Mt. Sinai ramp which is the best ramp i`v ever used

. If you have the money go with a aluminum bunk and you will not be disappointed.

 

[leakyrivot]

Lattitudechange wrote:
You shouldn't have to get your truck wet, especially with a roller trailer. If you back in the water too deep you'll have a tougher time getting the boat to center properly. The boat will tend to float half way up the trailer without the keel touching the rear rollers. You want the keel to contact the rear rollers to get it to track right.


That's loading, I agree.. but launching is a different story with a boat that has 29 feet of waterline.

Sometimes it will slip off but sometimes with the angle there's just too much weight still sitting on the forward rollers; when you are 9000 lbs loaded, if the boat sits fairly level in the water and you've got the bow propped up 2 feet higher than the stern sometimes it gets stuck (even with rollers). You can jam it off with the brakes or maybe under power but backing the trailer in until the boat floats off the best method for a controlled launch.

Jon

 

[Lattitudechange]

leakyrivot wrote:
Lattitudechange wrote:
You shouldn't have to get your truck wet, especially with a roller trailer. If you back in the water too deep you'll have a tougher time getting the boat to center properly. The boat will tend to float half way up the trailer without the keel touching the rear rollers. You want the keel to contact the rear rollers to get it to track right.


That's loading, I agree.. but launching is a different story with a boat that has 29 feet of waterline.

Sometimes it will slip off but sometimes with the angle there's just too much weight still sitting on the forward rollers; when you are 9000 lbs loaded, if the boat sits fairly level in the water and you've got the bow propped up 2 feet higher than the stern sometimes it gets stuck (even with rollers). You can jam it off with the brakes or maybe under power but backing the trailer in until the boat floats off the best method for a controlled launch.

Jon

Hey Leaky, I agree. Launching a boat with minimal resistance is the most controlled method. As long as your not dunking your towing vehicle. If you are then you would need to modify your trailer or find a steeper ramp.

IMO, if you regularly trailer a boat, it should be light enough to push off a roller type trailer when launching. Anyone of us could push a 3000-6000 lb boat. A quick boost off the bow and she'll gracefully glide off.

BTW, I was thinking. Aside from haulers, how many people regularly trailer a 29'. 9000lb boat?