[shebeen]

I'm going to replace my helm chairs.Right now I've got the older two leg type with the slider mounted to the station wall. I'm installing pedestals,27" from deck to bottom of seat. The boat is an older Stamas so it's pretty stout but I don't want to pop a hole in the deck if someone leans (falls!) against them. Here's my questions:

- It would seem to me that a round backing plate
would be better than square?

- I'm thinking of using 1/4" aluminum for the
plate, about 12-14" diameter. Is there a better
material? Maybe that plastic cutting board
stuff?

- Should I 'sandwich' the deck with two plates,
one above and one below?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

shebeen

 

[Scalawag]

Shebeen,
Dont understand the whole post but will offer this as I installed a pedestal Capt. chair last yr. on my Chris Craft.
You got to drill holes into the deck. theres toggle bolts and or Stainless screws you can use. Make sure you seal up those holes with 5200 on the threads some folk use thickened epoxy. I dont remember there being much more to it other then drill the holes using the pedestal as a template first. Run BIG ass screws in ther as big as will fit in the countersunk holes . Rou a NICE BEAD of 5200 around the whole pedestal. Theres wood in your deck, assumming no softspots these pedestals are designed to distribute the weight, you'll be OK .
Alan

 

[MakoMike]

Shebean,
The shape of the backing plate shouldn't make a difference as long as it covers the area of the pedestal mount, in fact bigger might be better. You could use 1/2 inch pressure treated plywood, easier to cut and almost as strong. Use 5200 to seal the whole thing to the deck, on both sides.

===MakoMike===

 

[618208]

I saw John Kraviskis (spelling?) do this on his "Ship Shape" TV show once.

He used a hole saw to drill a circular hole in the deck (about 4-5" diameter, I think), then used a PAIR of semi-circular, metal backing plates (aluminum or SS, I don't remember) that were about 1/4 - 3/8" thick and about 4" wide. Each plate was slipped through the hole and bolted to the under side of the deck, creating a circular two-part backing plate. The backing plates also had threaded holes to match up with the pedestal, and he drilled holes through the deck for those before mounting the plates.

One precaution: You have to be careful to try to locate stringers, electrical lines or other obstructions before making the large "access" hole. Drill a small hole and use a bent coat hanger to probe around.

"Ship Shape" might have videos of past programs for sale on their web site.

Good luck,

Fuzzy





This message was edited by fuzzy2u on 3-15-02 @ 4:21 PM

 

[shebeen]

Thanks for the replies, good information all. Fortunately I think I can access the underside of my deck via the fuel tank hatch.
Finish one project, add two more. Gotta stop this.

shebeen

 

[618208]

Finish one project, add two more. Gotta stop this.

Yeah, how many times have you started something like this and said to yourself, "As long as I've got everything pulled apart and I'm in here doing this job, I might as well ...."

It NEVER stops.

Fuzzy