Terminal tackle, the long n' short of it.............
dockboy, there are several different rigs you can use to connect your terminal tackle to the snap swivel, but before I explain a couple of the more successful ones, it might be a good idea to talk about total leader length. I fish a 26' boat, but, my ****pit length is only about ½ that. When the snap swivel makes it's first appearance during the battle, I have the rod man back up, move forward in the boat as far as he can. When he reaches that point, between the tip of the rod, which is about 4' away from him, I am left with approx. 8' of wire between that point and the transom, this assumes that the snap swivel is inches away from the rod tip. I base my leader length on that, so on my boat, I fish with a total leader length of approx. 12'. This makes the wireman's job easier as now the fish is approx. 4' off the starboard corner, again, assumption made here is that the boat is moving, which keeps everything in place as described. Basing your leader length on your boat size also helps a great deal if you are fishing with an inexperienced crew. I often fish with just 1 other person, and then I will use an 8'-10' leader.
Here are all the ingredients you will need to make any of the two rigs I will explain.
1. Mustard Mate Hooks, size 10/0, style 7698 straight or 7699 offset. Sharpen all hooks to razor sharp, they DO NOT come that way out of the box
2. Sampo solid ring minimum 300lb ball bearing swivel
3. Premium grade stainless steel wire, brands, American Fishing Wire, or Stealth, in size # 18, .041, 325lb. Test.
4. Stainless Steel cable, brands, Trident, 7 strands, minimum size .049, 270lb. Test. Also, Hi-Seas mini double sleeve crimps, for above wire, size 1.6mm
5. Crimping tool, Hi-Seas makes some good affordable ones.
The simplest, easiest, and oldest way to make a rig is to just use wire, and a hook. Tie a Haywire Twist to the tag end and the same around the hook. I started shark fishing back in 1964, back then we used piano wire I think. This is a good rig, and many, many good fish have been taken over the years using this.
Another way to make a rig, a better rig, is to combine the stranded cable with single strand. Use approx. 2/3 cable to 1/3 single strand. Crimp a double overhand loop for the tag end on the cable and the same to the barrel, then haywire twist single strand from the barrel to hook. Keeping with the 2/3 -1/3 method assures that the bait is presented more naturally.
Using the combination rig has it's advantages in that the stranded is easier to handle when wiring the fish, and also a LOT more forgiving. The barrel also provides a nice "handle" to grab. Never, I repeat, NEVER, take a wrap on your hand with the any of the wires with a good fish on, even a ½ way decent fish.
At 1st. glance you may think the single wire rig is the cheapest in terms of cost, however, they are about the same. Reason being, many times you will want to cut the wire and set the fish free so as not to cause it unnecessary stress or harm. If you were using single strand and did that, the amount of wire you are left with is more often then not only good to make Bluefish rigs out of. Using the double wire rig, you simply have to replace the 1/3 of wire below the barrel.
As far as accessories are concerned, the shark skirts make nice additions to your rigs, however, I would not use them on all your rigs, try them on 1 or 2 and see what's working that day. I have mixed feelings about the rattles, sometimes I use them, and sometimes I don't. I don't really think they rattle. Pick one up in your hand and go up and down with it the same you might think it would do in the water, it makes no noise. If you shake it vigorously though, which won't happen in the water, then it makes noise. Who knows, they are made of that glow in the dark material I think, so maybe that helps too.
I'll try and post a few photos of some rigs, and then tell you a little bit about what I know of line, knots, swivels, and floats.
Tight lines,
MakoMatt