[SORTIE]

here's my latest project, replacing the ugly OEM plastic instrument panel with a beautiful wooden model (courtesy of brother Latty). Once I'm through varnishing the panel (nine coats to go), I'll enlarge the existing hole in the console to accept it. I bought all of the new instruments last summer.

Questions:

1. what is the best tool to cut 1/8" fiberglass?
2. what is the best way to secure the new panel?
3. are there any 'tricks' to transferring the leads from the old instruments to the new? should the connections be soldered?
4. what's the best way to make the new panel watertight?

(OR should I hire my mechanic to do all of this )

 

[OceanChaser]

Oh Dear

 

[Gaucho]

Skip,
I wanna see pictures...I'm thinking of doing the samething later this year.

 

[SORTIE]

otay

 

[MakoMike]

SORTIE wrote:

1. what is the best tool to cut 1/8" fiberglass?

I assume you want to cut a big opening, not just a small hole? If so a fine toothed blad in a jigsaw (sabersaw) will do it. Tape the cut line and mark the tape for the cut line and then cut right through the tape.

SORTIE wrote:
2. what is the best way to secure the new panel? quote:

Does the new panel have a lip on it so that you can cut the opening smaller than the overall panel and then drop it in? If so you could screw it or through bolt it into the glass that is under the lip.

SORTIE wrote:
3. are there any 'tricks' to transferring the leads from the old instruments to the new? should the connections be soldered?

Most instruments take spade connectors on the back. Are yous set up to accept spade connectors? If so you could use crimp on or solder on connectors. If you go for the crimp on get the watertight ones with the shrink wrap.

4. what's the best way to make the new panel watertight?

Once again, assuming the new panel has a lip that will overlap the fiberglass, some caulking between the panel and the fiberglass will do. I would use silicone so that's its removeable should the need arise. Definately do NOT use 5200 or 4200.

(OR should I hire my mechanic to do all of this )

Depends on your ability and confidence level. Measure twice (maybe three times) cut once.

 

[SORTIE]

Mike, I need to enlarge the existing opening 1/2" - 1"

The new panel has no lip; will lie flat on the glass. My default plan is to simply drill holes through the panel into the fiberglass below and use wood screws (covered with plugs). Agree that silicone makes more sense than 4200/5200, since I know I'll need to get into it again.

haven't see the existing connectors yet, but they are original equipment on this 23 year old boat.

p.s. before I bought the gauges I did check with Morse to ensure that they would be compatible with the engine

 

[BLUEFISH9]

I've done this several times...

SORTIE wrote:

Questions:

1. what is the best tool to cut 1/8" fiberglass?
2. what is the best way to secure the new panel?
3. are there any 'tricks' to transferring the leads from the old instruments to the new? should the connections be soldered?
4. what's the best way to make the new panel watertight?

1. IF cutting large opening for entire panel...scroll saw fith FINE blade. If small circular holes (for individual gauges etc.) then use a hole saw.

2. Stainless steel wood screws with a small bead of sealant. Remember to make pilot holes almost as large as screw being used to avoid chipping the gel coat. Remember to apply a small amount of sealant to the threads of the screws as well.

3. If you dont know "what wires are what"...go to the craft store and pick up a pack of assorted colored acrilic paint. Mark each wire with its own dedicated color. If you're over 40 years of age, it might help to write those colors down on paper as well.

4. If you are refering to keeping water from getting BEHIND the panel, the bead of sealant should work fine. If you are refering to the wood itself...Get a consol cover and keep your fingers crossed!

Good luck...dont forget to post pics!

 

[MakoMike]

SORTIE wrote:
Mike, I need to enlarge the existing opening 1/2" - 1"

The new panel has no lip; will lie flat on the glass. My default plan is to simply drill holes through the panel into the fiberglass below and use wood screws (covered with plugs). Agree that silicone makes more sense than 4200/5200, since I know I'll need to get into it again.



You lost me Skip, if the new panel is going to lie flat on the glass why do you need to cut the glass??? Got pics?

 

[CaptPaul]

Use a jig saw w/ a metal bit to make the cut-out.

Mike, I would assume that he needs to relieve the existing hole for the new gauges to fit.

If you are going to use screws w/ plugs, then access is not going to be very easy after the varnish gets into the bungs. Also, if you have stained and varnished the panel, then it will be a pain to get the bungs to match stain color and varnish depth. If you have access from beneath, then drill clearnace holes through the glass, and screw in from the bottom. You may consider using flat-head or oval-head silicone bronze wood screws from above, which will end up matching the varnish fairly well, depending on the stain you used, and it will be easy to access things. Be sure to mount the panel, then remove the screws and seal the holes VERY well, either w/ many thin epoxy or thin varnish coats. Marine silicone is good for bedding it, but if there is not going to be a good seat, maybe you want to wax the glass, apply several coats of mold release, and then bed it in mahogany 5200. It will make it look fine, despite any gaps. Be sure to clean any excess off w/ many clean rags and spirits while it is wet, and let it dry completely, probably close to a week, before you pop it off to make sure it releases. Or you can leave it on and wonder if it will release when you need it to.

You can also set some #10 cap screws into the corners, and maybe a few in between, depending on length, plug them w/ bungs set in thickened epoxy to lock the heads, and then drill over-sized holes where they will penetrate the glass, and secure the panel w/ flat, lock wahshers, and nuts. This would work if you had access underneath to spin a nut driver, but not enough access to drive screws up. For this method, set the panel on the console after you drill some bung-holes where you want fasteners, then drill through the center of the bungs w/ a clearnace hole for the cap screws. Do this now, so you can match the bungs' stain and varnish to the rest of the panel. You will also have the cap screws as stands when you are coating the panel.

Paul

This post edited by CaptPaul 08:07 PM 06/09/2008

 

[MakoMike]

If the holes are only to accomodate the new gauges, then I would us a hole saw (assumiong that you need round holes. You could also mount the panel with combination wood screws cahine screws used as studs. I mean the type of fastner that is a wood screw on one end and a machine screw on the other. You could drill trhe holes in the glass and then mark the bottom of the panel. Screw the wood screw end into the panel and then poisition it on the glass so that the machine screws go through the holes, then use nuts and washers to secure it to the glass.

If you around tomorrow night and want me to eyeball it, give me a ring.

 

[SORTIE]

MakoMike wrote:
SORTIE wrote:
Mike, I need to enlarge the existing opening 1/2" - 1"

The new panel has no lip; will lie flat on the glass. My default plan is to simply drill holes through the panel into the fiberglass below and use wood screws (covered with plugs). Agree that silicone makes more sense than 4200/5200, since I know I'll need to get into it again.



You lost me Skip, if the new panel is going to lie flat on the glass why do you need to cut the glass??? Got pics? I'm adding a large gauge (FloScan) so the panel is increasing in size as well.

 

[SORTIE]

I can see why pictures would help all of you...I will post some.

For now, the existing Mercruiser instrument panel is a hard (but thin) molded plastic in a semi-oval shape. It's secured on top of a hole in the fiberglass console, to the left of the wheel and engine controls. The bottom of the gauges hang into a void that's only open on the bottom.

Latt's replacement instrument panel is 3/4" thick wood in a rectangular shape. Craig drilled a custom hole in the panel for each new gauge. The bottom of the gauges will hang into the void as before.

I suppose it would be possible to screw into the wood console through the fiberglass from below, but it's very close quarters and I would need to be lying on the deck with just my arm up the void, trying to make contact with screw heads by touch.

Apparently it's unrealistic to think that I can simply transfer one lead at a time from each old gauge to the new, but that's what I was planning to do.

This post edited by SORTIE 11:51 AM 06/10/2008

 

[CaptPaul]

MakoMike wrote:
If the holes are only to accomodate the new gauges, then I would us a hole saw (assumiong that you need round holes.Pretty sure he has a rectangular panel w/ rond gauges in it to eliminate the need to cut round holes, and to allow for the new configuration.

You could also mount the panel with combination wood screws cahine screws used as studs. I mean the type of fastner that is a wood screw on one end and a machine screw on the other. You could drill trhe holes in the glass and then mark the bottom of the panel. Screw the wood screw end into the panel and then poisition it on the glass so that the machine screws go through the holes, then use nuts and washers to secure it to the glass. quote]Mike, those are called hanger bolts. I briefly considered recommending them, but I don't think they are made in a corrossion resistant material in a size suitable for this purpose.

If he can mark the panel from the bottom, it would be best to secure it through the use of screws up from the bottom. Drill the clearance holes through the fiberglass from the top, after you trace the outline of the panel on it. Then have someone lean on the panel while you just dent it through the clearance holes from the bottom, either w/ a drill or an awl. Then remove the panel again and drill the counterbore holes carefully. Replace the panel w/ someone leaning on it, and thread the screws in place. I think this is the best way to do it, if you want it to be removeable, and have the least risk of water stains around the fasteners.

For wiring, pull the old panel up from the console. If the wires don't allow you to flip it over, then individually cut each one from below and extend it a couple of feet w/ heat shrink butt connectors or solder and heat shrink tubing. Individually mark each one w/ a label, and leave enough wire to extend eighteen inches beyond the face of the console. When you're done, lay the new console upside down on your wheel or console, and cut each wire to a length that allows it to reach it's connector w/ the panel upside down. When you are done, you will be able to remove the panel and flip it over w/ the wires attached, and service it properly. When you orient it to drop back in the opening, use cable ties to bundle the wires, working from the panel down. It would be wise to have the hole large enough (assuming that the panel can cover it) so that you can clamp the bundle to the back of the panel w/ a cushioned metallic clamp at the first cable tie, to prevent strain on the wire bundle during operation nad service. If you can't clamp it to the panel, clamp it to the inside of the console, leaving enough loop to swing the panel in and out of place, w/o stressing connections.

If you extend wires, use a good quality tinned wire.

Paul

 

[quasyone]

pannel

Hi skip when your donepost som pix so we can see yours and lattys handy work .will t be done by the first raftup?
Danny out

 

[SORTIE]

quasyone wrote:
Hi skip when your donepost som pix so we can see yours and lattys handy work .will t be done by the first raftup?
Danny outlow likelihood that it's complete by then

if I'm diligent it will be fully-varnished at that point, then we can all strategize in person

 

[SORTIE]

applied third coat of varnish to panel this morning

 

[GradySailfish]

Sortie...

Now tell me the truth.

Do you keep a small bottle of varnish in your desk draw at work, that you take a "wiff" of every hour or so. ?

I have a feeling you do.

 

[SORTIE]

I LOVE THE SMELL OF VARNISH IN THE MORNING

 

[SORTIE]

applied the sixth coat this morning, before breakfast

 

[DarthBaiter]

pictures speak a thousand words....or some to thast effect...