[PURSUIT2]

I am replacing the transducer on my hull and have purchased an Airmar B256 Transducer with the High speed Fairing Block. The directions recommend cutting it to the correct deadrise angle with a Bandsaw, but I have been unable to locate anyone that can do this.

Anyone know of a place that will cut Fairing Blocks for this purpose? You only get one shot at this, so I want it done right. I am on the West End, but will travel to get it done right.

Thanks - Rob

 

[SomedayCame]

Fairing Block!!!

I did everything else on board but the transducer. I have the same one you purchased and I had OpenSea Inc. in Hampton Bays, NY install it.

 

[Mad Mahi]

If you know the angle of the cut required, find a lumber yard in your area.

Probably take them them minutes and cost you no more than $10. Just make sure that they use a finer blade, and not a ripping blade. A laminate blade would be ideal. If there is a fairing block with the old 'ducer, try to remove it and bring it along to match it up.

 

[gverb1219]

You can do it yourself.

If your boat is blocked up fairly level, side to side more important than front to back, you can use a angel gauge. Check your water line across the stern with a level, then using a smaller level, hold it against the angel gauge under the boat till you get the same readings as on the water line. Tighten the angel gauge. Then transcribe that angel to your fairing block, but you MUST make sure you mark it correctly......so the front of the block is forward. Cut it on a table or band saw.
Not really hard to do at all. I did mine 2 years ago, and it came out fine.

 

[PURSUIT2]

Thanks for the responses guys. I am planning to do the installation in April, so I still have some time to get this done.

Gverb - I am blocked up now, and I think pretty level. The deadrise where I am mounting is 23.5 degrees. I have a tablesaw that I use for framing. I didn't think the blade would be tall enough to make the cut I need, but now you got me thinking and I will check it out this weekend. I gotta go away on business this morning for a few days, or I would check right now.

 

[CaptPaul]

A short blade is a Godsend for the faint of heart, or beginners. Make a pass, which will probably most of the way through. Finish it off w/ a hand saw, and then smooth the lip between the two blade-widths w/ a block of wood and sandpaper. Not cutting all the way through will make it safer for you fingers when pushing, and safer because there won't be two units to push after completion, w/ one falling onto the blade, or one jamming under the blade. Even spent a few bucks on a new fine-toothed blade for your saw, and you'll save money and have a blade that was never really used.

Paul

 

[flybyme.]

fairing block

They did an episode on ship shap tv on how to install.

 

[Brenainn]

gverb1219 wrote:
You can do it yourself.

If your boat is blocked up fairly level, side to side more important than front to back, you can use a angel gauge. Check your water line across the stern with a level, then using a smaller level, hold it against the angel gauge under the boat till you get the same readings as on the water line. Tighten the angel gauge. Then transcribe that angel to your fairing block, but you MUST make sure you mark it correctly......so the front of the block is forward. Cut it on a table or band saw.
Not really hard to do at all. I did mine 2 years ago, and it came out fine.

I did the same, came out good! I used a 5$ angle finder from hardware store with a torpedo level. The airmar directions are good. Make sure that you cut the meat of the block and not the pocket for the ducer. Check, recheck and cut. Push it slow through the table saw, easy

From the pic here you can see on the bottom half where I hesitated a little pushing it through, the 5200 filled that in well enough.

 

[Miss Beryl Charters]

Pursuit, Gverb has it right. The best way to cut it is with a table saw. I would recommemd making a couple of "slugs" first out of foam material like the pink foam sheet for insulating a house. Make up 2 slugs out of foam the same dimensions as the fairing block. Then cut one of the slugs with the table saw first - this is the most fool proof way to do it as you can stick the foam slug on the hull after your cut to be absolutely sure you have the correct angle before you cut the acutal fairing block. If your angle is slightly off, adjust and cut into your second foam slug. BTY, once you are ready to cut into the actual plastic fairing block, be sure to make multiple passes. Meaning, cut a little at a time, raise the blade, cut again, raise the blade etc. If you try to make that cut in one pass is would be dangerous!! If your table saw blade does not cut all the way through the entire block, you can always cut the last little bit with a hand saw.
Good Luck.
Capt. Rick

 

[PURSUIT2]

Capt Paul - that makes alot of sense. I have a Finishing blade for the tablesaw, and have found that things do tend to get bound between the blade and the block.

Even if the blade is tall enough, I'll probably set it so it leaves an inch or so, and finish it with a hand saw.

Thanks again Guys

 

[captainlarry84]

one more thing

You must drill the hole in the fairing block first and use it as a guide so the hole in the hull is at the proper angle. I also alway drill from the inside out. This way I know nothing is in the way of the install or servicing of the ducer.

 

[gverb1219]

captainlarry84 wrote:
You must drill the hole in the fairing block first and use it as a guide so the hole in the hull is at the proper angle. I also alway drill from the inside out. This way I know nothing is in the way of the install or servicing of the ducer.

Captain Larry,
The Airmars come with the holes drilled already.

fishinsurfer wrote:
I would recommemd making a couple of "slugs" first out of foam material like the pink foam sheet for insulating a house. Make up 2 slugs out of foam the same dimensions as the fairing block. Then cut one of the slugs with the table saw first - this is the most fool proof way to do it as you can stick the foam slug on the hull after your cut to be absolutely sure you have the correct angle before you cut the acutal fairing block. If your angle is slightly off, adjust and cut into your second foam slug.

I did that first........with a piece of 4 x 4 I cut the angle and kept going back under the boat to check it until I was satisfied it was level.

It's very important, when you cut it to make sure the angle is on the correct side of the fairing block or it will be cut backwards.

With the block facing forward the port side should be the lower side of the angle on the block if it will be installed on the starboard side of the boat.....and vise-versa for the port side of the boat.....but which ever side it goes on, make sure the block is facing forward when you run it through the saw.
For the Airmar, they have a second bolt in front that locks the fairing block so it doesn't loosen and turn on ya, thats the forward guide..

Take the time and use scrap wood or styrofoam to make up a dummie block so your comfortable with the angle.

When your sure............let er rip.......

 

[clementine]

Fairing Block

Looking at your picture, it looks as if your fairing block has some holes in the foam. If that's the case i think the instruction manual had something special to say, can't remember specifics tho...

 

[MistyTom]

I did mine myself a few seasons ago. The key was to make a few practice templets first. I did it on a band saw. I believe the table saw can be dangerous for this cut unless you really know what you are doing. I made several templets out of foam and kept adjusting the table on the band saw until I got the right angle. My finale templete was made out of wood. I finale cut the fairing block after I was sure that I had the right angle.

This post edited by MistyTom 09:37 PM 03/03/2008

 

[gvisko1]

I would use a belt sander . Mark the angle on the block then turn the belt sander upside down and sand it down to the mark. Use a corse
belt like 80 grit.