live bait well??
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I guess it depends On how you want to do things. You may want use a round "party cooler" .Costco has them but I can't remember how much. They are insulated and have a drain installed already. Get a 12v live well airator and you are in business. This is providing you have some way to fill it. I have a raw water wash pump I use to fill live wells. I hope that helps. Good luck.
The Rodbuster
The Rodbuster
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117 Posts
I've read that some use the 12VDC bilge pumps found at West Marine for about $18. The reason they cited for not using an aerator is that when there are a lot of bunker or other live bait, they do #1's and #2's in the water and eventually poison themselves even when there is plenty of oxygen. Need minimum of 350GPH with 500GPH preferable.
I respectfully disagree. Generally, fish do not evacuate (for lack of a better term) at a rate high enough to raise the ammonia levels in the water in a fishing days time. If there are enough fish in a livewell to do that then they will run out of air before toxic poisoning happens. If you go with just a bilge pump, that is fine, but remember that the water you are pumping into the livewell is warm (surface water). Warm water does not hold as much disolved oxygen as cold water. Thus you can't keep as much bait in the livewell.
My suggestion is to aerate and add ice to the water (this is why I suggested the cooler). And yes it is ok to add ice to saltwater. Just enough to keep the fish happy. If you are concerned about ammonia levels, then change your water every couple of hours. The cooler has a built in drain...remember.
However this is JMHO.
The Rodbuster
My suggestion is to aerate and add ice to the water (this is why I suggested the cooler). And yes it is ok to add ice to saltwater. Just enough to keep the fish happy. If you are concerned about ammonia levels, then change your water every couple of hours. The cooler has a built in drain...remember.
However this is JMHO.
The Rodbuster
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5,302 Posts
On the tuna partyboats I have seen people bring huge plastic drums. Larger and heavier walled than a normal garbage can. Look at the back of a partyboat and you will see what I mean. They cut off the top, put a wooden lid on hinges and coil a long washdown hose into the bottom, using some plumbing to split up multiple washdown hoses so they still have something to clean the boat.
I have the 5 gallon Igloo cooler with 2 portable pumps. Insulated and the handles and lid are useful. If you want to hold 6 snappers for a few hours, it works, anything more, it's too small.
I have the 5 gallon Igloo cooler with 2 portable pumps. Insulated and the handles and lid are useful. If you want to hold 6 snappers for a few hours, it works, anything more, it's too small.
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5,139 Posts
Custom Made from Leftovers
I am in the process of making one for myself. There was an old post for this but I added a little more.
I have access to a 20 gallon plastic barrell that was used for commerical soap. It is made of heavy plastic with heavy re-enforced rings. I am going to cut the top off to a certain point so I don't have to hinge it. Next I am putting a outlet in the bottom with a small hand valve that will act as a drain also when I disconnect. On my boat I have a raw water washdown by the transom well. What I will do there is go to home depot and get a good Y fitting or splitter and put it right on the oultet for the washdown, and run 1 to the tank and 1 for the washdown.
You may have to make up a small hose for the tank depending where you are putting it. Also the outlet may have to be bushed up in size so you can put an adopter that goes from NPT ( national pipe thread) to a hose thread.
As stated I gat the idea from an old Post so I can't take credit for this. I think it Mako Mike who put it up, I amjust modifiying ot a little. Naturally you will have to have an outlet at the top for overflow but that is the easy part.
I saw the barrel at OZZIES CAMPING EQUIPMENT In Bohenia. I know the owner there and he even has all the fittings that will conform to a round barrel. Sorry only 1 barerel there but the fittings are the impotant thing.
I believe there is a plastic tank place on Sunrise Hgwy in Lindenhurst and he has all sorts os contaniers there.
I told the owner of Ozzie's ( Nelson) to save those containers and make good use out of something that otherwise will be discarded. His eyes lighted right up.
The placement of this tank can be put on a small swim platform and strapped down or in a small corner of the boat.
As Skatemaster has stated it will work and a 20 or 25 gallon tank will keep your bait alive for a long time.
Bill
I am in the process of making one for myself. There was an old post for this but I added a little more.
I have access to a 20 gallon plastic barrell that was used for commerical soap. It is made of heavy plastic with heavy re-enforced rings. I am going to cut the top off to a certain point so I don't have to hinge it. Next I am putting a outlet in the bottom with a small hand valve that will act as a drain also when I disconnect. On my boat I have a raw water washdown by the transom well. What I will do there is go to home depot and get a good Y fitting or splitter and put it right on the oultet for the washdown, and run 1 to the tank and 1 for the washdown.
You may have to make up a small hose for the tank depending where you are putting it. Also the outlet may have to be bushed up in size so you can put an adopter that goes from NPT ( national pipe thread) to a hose thread.
As stated I gat the idea from an old Post so I can't take credit for this. I think it Mako Mike who put it up, I amjust modifiying ot a little. Naturally you will have to have an outlet at the top for overflow but that is the easy part.
I saw the barrel at OZZIES CAMPING EQUIPMENT In Bohenia. I know the owner there and he even has all the fittings that will conform to a round barrel. Sorry only 1 barerel there but the fittings are the impotant thing.
I believe there is a plastic tank place on Sunrise Hgwy in Lindenhurst and he has all sorts os contaniers there.
I told the owner of Ozzie's ( Nelson) to save those containers and make good use out of something that otherwise will be discarded. His eyes lighted right up.
The placement of this tank can be put on a small swim platform and strapped down or in a small corner of the boat.
As Skatemaster has stated it will work and a 20 or 25 gallon tank will keep your bait alive for a long time.
Bill
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69 Posts
Preferred method
Amonia levels are not the only reason to keep replacing live well water. If the bunker are snagged they will bleed into the water. If the well is crowded, scales and slime are stripped off the bunker and rapidly clog their gills.
You know your well is functioning poorly when the bait begins to "red out". Red patches begin to appear on the nose and sides. This is not reversable.
I use raw water input at a high enough rate to replace the entire volume of the well 6 or more times an hour. It keeps the water clean and clear.
When water temps are cool and the water holds higher amounts of dissolved oxygen this is typically all that is needed.
However, when the well is overloaded or temps are warm a recirc loop is needed.
The best way to do this is to get a small pump (200-300gph) and draw water from one point in the well and inject it above the surface using a spray bar.
The spray bar is simply a 3/4 piece of hose or pvc with numerous small holes drilled in it. This will add enough oxygen to keep the baits going.
However, if too many bubbles are being generated this can also have the effect of stripping slime and scales from the fish. This is the reason that timers are sold for recirc pump (Rule makes one).
With a little practice and these two pumps you can quickly learn the best ways to keep your baits alive.
Amonia levels are not the only reason to keep replacing live well water. If the bunker are snagged they will bleed into the water. If the well is crowded, scales and slime are stripped off the bunker and rapidly clog their gills.
You know your well is functioning poorly when the bait begins to "red out". Red patches begin to appear on the nose and sides. This is not reversable.
I use raw water input at a high enough rate to replace the entire volume of the well 6 or more times an hour. It keeps the water clean and clear.
When water temps are cool and the water holds higher amounts of dissolved oxygen this is typically all that is needed.
However, when the well is overloaded or temps are warm a recirc loop is needed.
The best way to do this is to get a small pump (200-300gph) and draw water from one point in the well and inject it above the surface using a spray bar.
The spray bar is simply a 3/4 piece of hose or pvc with numerous small holes drilled in it. This will add enough oxygen to keep the baits going.
However, if too many bubbles are being generated this can also have the effect of stripping slime and scales from the fish. This is the reason that timers are sold for recirc pump (Rule makes one).
With a little practice and these two pumps you can quickly learn the best ways to keep your baits alive.
Guy's I have a serious question.?Anybody know about EELS?????????
I am starting my collection of eels,in the Garage,for the fall when decent sized eels are hard to find.
I have them in a 150qt.cooler,350gph pump,timer & change the water every 3or4 days.
My first question is:what to feed them,When they catch them they use horse shoe crabs,but that might be a little crazy,just for a tank in the garage,maybe a pet store.I have thrown lobster bodies in there(don't now about that)The other Q's is,They are going from dark to light(changing color)Anybody know about EELS?????????
I am starting my collection of eels,in the Garage,for the fall when decent sized eels are hard to find.
I have them in a 150qt.cooler,350gph pump,timer & change the water every 3or4 days.
My first question is:what to feed them,When they catch them they use horse shoe crabs,but that might be a little crazy,just for a tank in the garage,maybe a pet store.I have thrown lobster bodies in there(don't now about that)The other Q's is,They are going from dark to light(changing color)Anybody know about EELS?????????
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69 Posts
Feeding and caring for eels
I have kept eels for years. Frequent complete water changes are (2-3 days) will keep them kicking for quite some time. You can also do partial water changes more frequently.
They need very little food. They generate enormous amounts of waste when they are fed. I would only recommend feeding them several hours before a planned water change unless you are using a large biological filter.
The best food that I used was mussels removed from the shell. They were easy to get and prepare. They can be frozen and used later. Feed very sparingly (one or two medium sized mussels per eel every 2-3 days).
The cooler the water is, the slower their metabolism and the less food they need. Keep them as cool as possible.
Do not be alarmed at the color change. Eels will change their shading to match the bottom color.
They need very little light.
I have kept eels for years. Frequent complete water changes are (2-3 days) will keep them kicking for quite some time. You can also do partial water changes more frequently.
They need very little food. They generate enormous amounts of waste when they are fed. I would only recommend feeding them several hours before a planned water change unless you are using a large biological filter.
The best food that I used was mussels removed from the shell. They were easy to get and prepare. They can be frozen and used later. Feed very sparingly (one or two medium sized mussels per eel every 2-3 days).
The cooler the water is, the slower their metabolism and the less food they need. Keep them as cool as possible.
Do not be alarmed at the color change. Eels will change their shading to match the bottom color.
They need very little light.
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