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I would go with clinch or improved

I have found that when you get into heavier mono and floro you need to avoid complicated knots. For braid it?s uni all the way but for heavy mono I find it?s too hard to synch up the knot. If you have to pull to hard it creates too much friction and heats up the mono weakening it big time.

I use a clinch knot to the swivel when I blackfish, and when I have to lock up and break off, the leader always gives before the knot.

Couple important points though, I find that the heavier the line the less wraps I do so it?s not to hard to synch, and second lubricate the knot. I prefer to make a show and drool on it like an idiot but most would just give it an inconspicuous lick.

This post edited by 6to8ftSeas 02:01 AM 01/20/2008
 

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ihavegills wrote:
The only data I have found on actual breaking strength tested on one fluro line showed
Improved clinch 78%
Palomar 72 %
Uni 69%

But knot/line strength varies between brands.

Whre did those percentages come from??

I thought palomar was close to 100% knot and the clinch not was around 90%? I dont recall the uni strngth but that seems low too.

With lighter mono lines I usually use an improved clinch knot for swivils jigs etc.. I switch to a palomar when using more than 50 pound test as it is hader to properly seat the clinch knot. With braid I use a palomar in all line diameters.
 

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The clinch knot has never failed me in the past. Just five turns and through the bottom loop: simple, and it gets the job done with heavy line. Anything below 20lb test, I use the improved clinch since the last step seems to prevent 80% of slippages with light line.
 

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6to8ftSeas wrote:
I have found that when you get into heavier mono and floro you need to avoid complicated knots. For braid it?s uni all the way but for heavy mono I find it?s too hard to synch up the knot. If you have to pull to hard it creates too much friction and heats up the mono weakening it big time.

I use a clinch knot to the swivel when I blackfish, and when I have to lock up and break off, the leader always gives before the knot.

Couple important points though, I find that the heavier the line the less wraps I do so it?s not to hard to synch, and second lubricate the knot. I prefer to make a show and drool on it like an idiot but most would just give it an inconspicuous lick.

I agree with keeping it simple with 50 and over. I use a 2-3 turn uni slopped with spit and pulled slow. just my .02
 

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I can tell you from experience that if you're using those small Spro Power swivels (i.e 130lb), do not use a Palomar knot. We had a stretch where we lost a bunch of tuna when we went to these swivels.

After coming home and experimenting, I soon realized that a Palomar knot on those very small swivels was breaking well below line strength. I used a brass scale to verify this.

What happens is that the lines laying in the swivel loop doubles over under load and cuts itself. The "orafice" size vs. line diameter makes it unuseable.

We switched to good ol' improved clinch knots and it solved our problems.
 

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JMetaxas wrote:
What happens is that the lines laying in the swivel loop doubles over under load and cuts itself. The "orafice" size vs. line diameter makes it unuseable.
.

That shouldn't happen with a properly tied palomar. One the knot is snugged up the line shouldn't move. I use paloamrs to tie hooks on and the hook eye is certainly larger than the end of a swivel.
 

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I agree w/ MM. Personaly, I always use a palomar to a barrel swivel and have never had a failure. one thing i've noticed (thankfully before fishing) is that when you use heavier floro, its very difficult to properly "snug" the knot by hand alone. You need some type of leverage. I have a room in my attic where I keep my fishing gear. there's a workbench set up and thats where I tie my rigs. I screwed an open eye hook into a beam and use that to tie my rigs. if im tying to a barrel swivel, I place the swivel ring over the eye hook in the wall. I then wrap the leader around my hand once and grab the tag end with a pair of pliers and pull both. I was amazed the first time I did that how much more "slack" there was in the knot that I had been missing. Havent broken one since. The same idea can be acomplished on the boat by securing a snap swivel to a cleat etc.
 

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JMetaxas wrote:
I can tell you from experience that if you're using those small Spro Power swivels (i.e 130lb), do not use a Palomar knot. We had a stretch where we lost a bunch of tuna when we went to these swivels.

After coming home and experimenting, I soon realized that a Palomar knot on those very small swivels was breaking well below line strength. I used a brass scale to verify this.

What happens is that the lines laying in the swivel loop doubles over under load and cuts itself. The "orafice" size vs. line diameter makes it unuseable.

We switched to good ol' improved clinch knots and it solved our problems.


I used the palomar to tie specta to the swivel years ago, I switched to the uni because I had random break-offs. I just don't use that knot anymore. Glad someone else has experience the same thing.

You can say I wasn't tieing it right if you want, but I think fool proof is a good quality in a knot, so uni it is for braid now.
 

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Guys: I'm not talking about regular swivels, but only those very small ones like the Spro Power's (130lb) or Spro Heavy 150lbs..

What happens under load is the lines double over on themselves and are aided by the very small radius of the loop on the swivel. Using a normal swivel such as a Sampo Ball Bearing or Rosco swivel will not exhibit this behavior.

Don't take my word for it, give it a try. Take 50lb test Fluoro, a Spro 130lb Power Swivel and a drag scale. I pre-test all my leaders to 40lbs.. You learn a lot with a drag scale.
 

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Palomar all the way. I tie this knot on all my tuna rigs, never failed. I use 65lb to 80 flouro on all bait rigs, put the hook around a cleat and pull hard to tighten her up. The palmor is the simplest and most trusted knot for many years and easy to tie in the dark. Also a lot of guys put a lil crazy glue on the knot on both ends, hook and swivel. Use the knot with 100% confidence.
 
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