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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1) No hypalon, cork tape weighs less

2) 2 small butt grips instead of 1 large

3) Smaller guides, lighter guides, less guides

4) Double wrap, not triple

5) Graphite reel seat, not aluminum

6) Lighter blank

7) Shorter blank

8) No spiral wrap, too many guides

9) No decorative wraps

Any other ideas?
 

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#8 & #9 are killing me!!!

How heavy is thread & epoxy anyway?

Spiral wraps, depends on who wraps it. One many soft glass rods, where the rod really bends parabolic, you'll actually use less guides because you're not adding guides to keep the line from hitting the blank. I add more guides than needed on my rods for other reasons, but there is no rule that says spiral wrapped rods uses more guides.

No decorative wraps = BORING
 

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How much lighter can it get?

Even if you do all of the items mentioned, how much weight will you take off? Probably just a few ounces, which, IMO, doesn't make much of a difference on an average saltwater stick. When fighting fish that range from several pounds to well over 100 pounds (tuna), the few ounces will not make much of a difference.

Using a lighter reel will make more of a difference, IME. For instance, I made a heavy glass tog rod, but I paired it with a Shimano TR200G which weighs only 13.2 oz. I really like the combo because its very light compared to my other similar rods with heavier reels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't know why, but factory rods almost always are heavier than custom. It is amazing that a custom 114-3F or Ugly stick can feel lighter than a factory composite rod built on a lighter blank. So I am curious about what a custom builder would do to accomplish this. Even an ounce or two less is worth it IMHO. Especially for inshore bottomfishing, I like a setup that I can work all day with one hand, but which can still handle a nice fish.
 

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That makes sense.

I wish my rods were a lot lighter than factory rods. As I type, I have a Calstar 700M drying with its final coat of finish, and I'm afraid its gonna be real heavy :( I broke most of your rules above, like #1, 2, 3, 7, 8 and 9. And once I take it off the dryer I'll be putting a gimbal (at least its graphite, not Al) on it instead of a regular butt cap. Guess I gotta hit the gym before I fish with this club ;)
 

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More can be less

1-yes
2-yes
3-yes and no see below
4-yes
5-yes
6-yes
7-yes
8-yes
9-yes

I use the Fuji Concept lay out
where you use more smaller lighter frame guides that weight less than the fewer larger frame guides
Once you find the choke point for the line on the blank the guides following the choke point can be reduced
I find the blank casts better and distributs stress evenly through the blank with the greater number of smaller guides and the finished rod is lighter
I do not use a under wrap except for heavy stand up or trolling poles
The newer guides are very flexible
and if you prepare the feet properly they do not dig in to the blank at all.
And I use A thread and light build finish and apply just enough coats to cover the threads and protect them instead of a big blob of high buld on the threads
And if yo want to go "UK"
no reel seat or cork tape just rubber tubing on the reel"s feet and plastic coasters to fix the reel on the raw blank
 

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Skatemaster - Inshore Bottom Fishing - Specifically what? I have a couple of Fluke bucktail rods, which are quite light to start. Specifically for htese rods, I would use smaller lighter guides, ie: stripper guide Alconite size 12 down to a size 6 single foot fly guide running guides (10# PP line). Had I more time, I would've split the cork butt grip (but I'd have to put a 6 hour butt wrap in between).

You could also find the lightest graphite blank to build on, just have to know what you are doing so you don't break it.
 
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