[togmaster]

Well It seems I got into a discussion on Crazy Al's board about TOG fishing.
It is a great fourm for all to see so check it out before you answer my question here. The reason I am posting this topic is because many anglers are asking the best way to anchor on a wreck?
So I felt this is a great question and can be answered by all that have found a way to do it to there liking.
SO THE QUESTION IS GIVE US YOUR TECHICAL ANSWER AND DESCRIPTION ON THE BEST WAY TO ANCHOR UP ON A WRECK.
I'LL BE LOOKING AT THESE ANSWERS AND TAKING IN ADVICE MYSELF. CAN ALWAYS LEARN SOMETHING NEW.
I will give my input on the topic proving the right and wrong ways of anchoring .
Well let the Capts. man there keyboards and give it a go!

 

[togmaster]

2 anchors tech!

Well Ill give a quick 2 anchor job. This is from a old post .

easiest way

The easiest way to drop 2 anchors is to run up around 50ft from your center point you want to sit. then ver off 30 degs. from your bearing and set the first anchor. come back to where you want the boat to stop and make sure it is set! Then while running up have someone watch the anchor line and adjust the line not to catch the prop or boat by pulling up the slack or feeding line when needed. after 50 to 100ft. ver off 30 degs. to the oppiste side of the other anchor make sure you haver a least a 3:1 scope min. on both lines to the depth of water. also make sure you have a least 10ft. of chain and depending on your boat a big enough anchor. I personally use a #22 anhor in a 23' boat. with 15 to 20 ft. of chain.
The chain is the most important part it absorbs the pull. after you have enough line out on the second anchor come back while still monitoring the first anchor till it is set. Then you could adjust the lenght to swing you over to where you want be. pulling up slack or letting out. the wider your spread makes it easier to cover more ground and adjust. till you get the hang of it dont go past a 60 deg spread or you'll have a problem. i like a 30 to 60 deg. spread myself. if done right you could set up on a piece the size of a car no problem. Also if your chunking sit ahead of the piece not right on it.
let the current take the baits back as well as the chumm. good luck hope it helps?

 

[Gamakatsu]

I will only add that you need to allow for the current. If you are in heavy current and anchored right on top of the piece, your lines will be down current from where they should be. This is especially true in deeper water. Otherwise you about covered it.

Gamakatsu

 

[baywatch]

3-1

Togmaster,
When you say 3-1 ratio are referring to the depth of the water. ie: 100 ft of water = 300 ft of line and rode, is that for both anchors? I also have a plough anchor on the boat now but I have 2 Danford anchors home about 12 lbs each. Which is the best to use. I usally do not fish wrecks but I have a feeling this fall I will probably be doing some TOG fishing with a buddy or 2 and I want to start gearing up the boat now while supplies last.

In other words need some advice.

Bill (baywatch)

 

[615342]

Baywatch,

I would be real leary about anchoring on top of a wreck with your plow anchor or any anchor other than a wreck anchor. I have lost 2 fast set anchors this year alone. Anchor and rode are not cheap. As an alternitive....

I Would get or make a wreck anchor one that will bend out when pulled real hard. I think the mighty mite is one kind of wreck anchor. I have personally made my own out of 1/2 rebar and has not failed me yet. It sets quick and just bends right out. real simple and cheap to make. Being that I have almost 600' of 1/2 rope from my previous losses, it was a no brainer.

If you are to anchor on a wreck with your other anchors I would find the spot you want mark it with a marker bouy or on the plotter and anchor OFF the wreck in the manner mentioned by Togmaster. Let your line out enough to bring the boat onto your mark.

 

[togmaster]

RIGHT ANCHOR

The Dan forth is the most common anchor to use. A plow will work well in sand bottom and some of my buddies use them in rocky bottom. The object of anchoring is not anchor into the wreck but up tide or wind of it. If you need to anchor into it then a wreck anchor is the only way to go! Yes the scope is ratio was correct Baywatch. That is a min. formula to use. Anchoring is a art. You must practice. A good way to learn is try to anchor on a buoy you should drop in open bottom. Then try and set up on the buoy. Try this in different depths of water. You will find 25 to 30 ft a great and easier starting point less line out and less anchor line to pull in will help you to become better. Remember the chain is as important as the anchor. You need a min of 6ft of chain. With a 23 parker I would use to 12 or 13 Dan forth for anchoring. I don?t use high tensile anchors near sticky bottom. You can loose a few. How I have stopped the loss of anchors is to drill a hole in the flat anchor plate where the flukes come out of. I tie my main line to this and then use a big wire tie to secure the line to the top of the anchor. By doing this if my anchor gets caught up. I can use the boat to pop the wire tie and pull the anchor out from the bottom usually freeing it. This is not 100% because I have had rebar rap the rope and this would cause the anchor to become hung. One of my buddy?s uses on propylene rope when anchoring on a reef. He claims it gets caught up less and it floats. So when he gets caught up in the reef he can retrieve the anchor by diving for it and easier top find with the rope floating.
Well have fun Good luck.