I switched anchors this season from a danforth to a lewmar plow anchor. I was having problems in the past with the danforth giving out at times. Guy at the shop said the plow style would be a better choice. I have a 27ft. W/A boat. Pretty heavy but the guy at the shop said the 14lb anchor was more than enough with 15ft of chain. Well today, the first time out there with it, I could not get that thing to set. Tried a few different spots with the same result. I was attempting it the same way I always had. Pulled ahead of the spot I wanted to anchor on, put it in neutral, dropped down the anchor, let the tide/wind move me back over the original spot letting out scope and waiting for it to set. It just never would grab. Is there a better technique for this type of anchor? Should I keep the boat in gear, just enough to neutralize the effect of the tide/wind, and drop the anchor down with enough scope and then take it out of gear and let it set? Thanks for any tips.
Help with setting anchor
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Throw the plow anchor through the window of the place that sold it to you. Go back to the Danforth, w/ a good shot of chain (five feet or more). When you attempt to set the anchor, you might want to power back towards where you want to be, maybe at least halfway. The key at this point is to not drag the anchor, but do not let the line billow out. By liling line out, you will not only loose the feel for the anchor, but if ther is a bit of current up into the wind, it is possible that the line will run across the surface of the water from your vessel, and straight down to the anchor. When you attempt to set it, you are actually pulling up on the anchor, hopping it along the bottom. When you attempt to set it, do it by holding the line breifly, so as not to drag it and float it up off the bottom.
When you say the Danforth was giving out, does that mean ot would pull after you set it? Often, people will set an anchor, but actually the flukes are barely into the bottom. After you think it's in, make sure there is adequate scope out, and then put a fair strain on it, by backing down slightly. After that, you can shorten up the scope again to where you want to be.
Paul
When you say the Danforth was giving out, does that mean ot would pull after you set it? Often, people will set an anchor, but actually the flukes are barely into the bottom. After you think it's in, make sure there is adequate scope out, and then put a fair strain on it, by backing down slightly. After that, you can shorten up the scope again to where you want to be.
Paul
Thanks Capt. do you think it is just too light? When I had the Danforth type I would be anchored up on a bridge and then all of a sudden the bridge would start getting closer and closer. We are talking a good 30minutes sometimes after setting it. I have 15ft of chain on there so I did not think that was the problem.
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Claw anchor...I think it did the worst in the WestMarine anchor test.
Hope you get your money back.
Hope you get your money back.
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Goodeats,
Don't know what your problem could be unless your trying to set up on real hard bottom.I had the dansforth but went to the same plow years ago when I installed the windless.I have a 29' phoenix and don't have any problems setting up.Do you have the swivel between the chain and the anchor?
paulie
This post edited by B.Attitude 07:49 AM 05/04/2008
Don't know what your problem could be unless your trying to set up on real hard bottom.I had the dansforth but went to the same plow years ago when I installed the windless.I have a 29' phoenix and don't have any problems setting up.Do you have the swivel between the chain and the anchor?
paulie
This post edited by B.Attitude 07:49 AM 05/04/2008
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Maybe a simple question but are you using the 6 or 7 to one amount of line ?
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CaptPaul is right about the need to "feel" the anchor.
1: Always try to set by hand.
2: keep tention on the anchor line.
3: When you think it's set, give an extra tug or 3 to really set the flukes.
CaptPaul said:When you say the Danforth was giving out, does that mean ot would pull after you set it? Often, people will set an anchor, but actually the flukes are barely into the bottom. After you think it's in, make sure there is adequate scope out, and then put a fair strain on it, by backing down slightly. After that, you can shorten up the scope again to where you want to be. wrote:
BTW: hard sand bottom by the big M coupled with boat wakes+wind against tide conditions makes for the need to set well.
1: Always try to set by hand.
2: keep tention on the anchor line.
3: When you think it's set, give an extra tug or 3 to really set the flukes.
CaptPaul said:When you say the Danforth was giving out, does that mean ot would pull after you set it? Often, people will set an anchor, but actually the flukes are barely into the bottom. After you think it's in, make sure there is adequate scope out, and then put a fair strain on it, by backing down slightly. After that, you can shorten up the scope again to where you want to be. wrote:
BTW: hard sand bottom by the big M coupled with boat wakes+wind against tide conditions makes for the need to set well.
Sidep, I don't know what to tell you. It happened on numerous occasions. I tried using more scope, less scope. Didn't seem to matter.
B.Attitude, what size anchor are you using on the 29'Phoenix? Yes, I have one of those stainless steel swivels between anchor and chain.
Dansgone, I assume you are asking about how much line out to depth. I go at least 4:1 when the tide isn't running too hard and about 6:1 when it is.
Judging by some of the responses the problem might be that I am letting too much line out faster than I am drifting back, hence too much slack. If I leave the boat in gear to neutralize the effect of the tide/wind and keep the boat from not moving either direction, let out enough line to hit bottom (I am using a windlass, not by hand), then take boat out of gear and let it drift back while letting out scope I think that may work. I'll try.
B.Attitude, what size anchor are you using on the 29'Phoenix? Yes, I have one of those stainless steel swivels between anchor and chain.
Dansgone, I assume you are asking about how much line out to depth. I go at least 4:1 when the tide isn't running too hard and about 6:1 when it is.
Judging by some of the responses the problem might be that I am letting too much line out faster than I am drifting back, hence too much slack. If I leave the boat in gear to neutralize the effect of the tide/wind and keep the boat from not moving either direction, let out enough line to hit bottom (I am using a windlass, not by hand), then take boat out of gear and let it drift back while letting out scope I think that may work. I'll try.
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Goodeats,
Its a 14lb Delta plow anchor with a swivel,15' of 1/4" chain and 300' of 1/2" 3 strand nylon rode.
Its a 14lb Delta plow anchor with a swivel,15' of 1/4" chain and 300' of 1/2" 3 strand nylon rode.
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Ever watch a party boat anchor up? One or two anchors,usually big dannys,and it's usually a one shot deal. Hand set by a mate up on the bow with a turn or 2 of the anchor line(s) around the bit,a little letting out till set as discribed above,adjust as needed. Use your windlass for up-anchoring,that's what it's made for. Unless of course you want to use windlass full time up and down, then use with all chain and let out 1-200' of it at a time, that should set any anchor you want to use.
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Goodeats - go to a Danforth Deepset. The change in angle from the standard Danforth to the Deepset makes all the difference. I could not get my 25Lb Standard Danforth to hold at all. Then I found out at the Canyon Runner Seminar 2 years ago that they use a 35 Lb Danforth Deepset for their 48 Viking in 600' of water and never pull the hook.
I switched to a 25 Lb Danforth Deepset II last season and have not pulled the hook yet. I have been using 30' of 5/16" chain with both anchors, so there was not change in that.
Good Luck,
Rob
This post edited by PURSUIT2 09:29 PM 05/04/2008
I switched to a 25 Lb Danforth Deepset II last season and have not pulled the hook yet. I have been using 30' of 5/16" chain with both anchors, so there was not change in that.
Good Luck,
Rob
This post edited by PURSUIT2 09:29 PM 05/04/2008
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Sounds to me like too little scope. A plow is a great digging anchor. Letting scope out on a windlass is a little tough. Make sure you are stopped before you drop the anchor. Then let our scope as you drift back, But you do not want to set the anchor until you have your scope out. If plow hits the bottom with the rhode tight and dragging, it will sit on its side and not set. Once you start to drag it, you have to leave it slack and wait to drift further back to set again.
Yes, I do tie it off in a strong current or very windy day to the cleat. The anchor was definitely giving out. I understand what you guys are saying about the windlass but on my boat when it's only me it is the only feasible way to anchor when I am trying to fish a bridge. Otherwise I'll be running back and forth from the bow to the helm and that's not easy on a walkaround style boat that I have.
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CaptPaul wrote:
Spool off a bunch of line at the dock, and put it in your ****pit, along w/ the anchor. Set the anchor off your stern by hand, and when you're sure it's in, let it go so it runs back up to the bow, and winch in whatever excess there is.
Paul
I anchor only this way,whether by myself or with a crew aboard. Less chance of anything going wrong if I control everything. Just make sure you first run the line under the front bow rail if you have one, before bringing the line and anchor to the ****pit(BEST IF DONE AT THE DOCK BEFORE LEAVING AS STATED) and you can drop and set the anchor from the helm area or ****pit and never have to run up to the bow.Less chance of anybody falling in the water!I have no winch and the boat is a 28'BHM with a deepset Danforth and works like a charm!
This post edited by whitesands 09:17 PM 05/06/2008
Spool off a bunch of line at the dock, and put it in your ****pit, along w/ the anchor. Set the anchor off your stern by hand, and when you're sure it's in, let it go so it runs back up to the bow, and winch in whatever excess there is.
Paul
I anchor only this way,whether by myself or with a crew aboard. Less chance of anything going wrong if I control everything. Just make sure you first run the line under the front bow rail if you have one, before bringing the line and anchor to the ****pit(BEST IF DONE AT THE DOCK BEFORE LEAVING AS STATED) and you can drop and set the anchor from the helm area or ****pit and never have to run up to the bow.Less chance of anybody falling in the water!I have no winch and the boat is a 28'BHM with a deepset Danforth and works like a charm!
This post edited by whitesands 09:17 PM 05/06/2008
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My buddy has this anchor, a 7 pound I think. He uses an auto windlass on a 25' Century and only about 4' of chain. He pulls up to where he wants the anchor to drop, puts it in idle reverse and drops the anchor. It has freefall so the line just bales out. He'll bump it back a bit and put the boat in neutral. When he sets the line the boat snaps to attention and hooks right up.
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