No problem with the Hardalloy and braids.
I have the BNLG pieces on many of my fluke sticks and all I use is braid for the flatties, never a problem in five seasons of hard use.
The currently available braids are pretty much all made of Polyethylene - the same stuff as milk bottles, very slippery and in fact a chemical cousin of Teflon. Not that far away either.
The bad rep that braids initially got back when they were first introduced was caused by the use of Kevlar, not PE as the fiber. The early Kevlar lines were coarse and tended to pick up sand and debris during use and this acted as a string saw on the guides. Hence the stories of grooved guides.
All this changed with the introduction of PE, tightly woven lines.
If you are REALLY concerned, then use an S.I.C. or Carbolloy tip and go with the lesser-pirced Hardalloy for the guides.
Or not, a Hardalloy top, particularly a BULT-type, which is all I use, has plenty of meat to the ring and will distribute the stress just great.
rgds, Leprechaun
I have the BNLG pieces on many of my fluke sticks and all I use is braid for the flatties, never a problem in five seasons of hard use.
The currently available braids are pretty much all made of Polyethylene - the same stuff as milk bottles, very slippery and in fact a chemical cousin of Teflon. Not that far away either.
The bad rep that braids initially got back when they were first introduced was caused by the use of Kevlar, not PE as the fiber. The early Kevlar lines were coarse and tended to pick up sand and debris during use and this acted as a string saw on the guides. Hence the stories of grooved guides.
All this changed with the introduction of PE, tightly woven lines.
If you are REALLY concerned, then use an S.I.C. or Carbolloy tip and go with the lesser-pirced Hardalloy for the guides.
Or not, a Hardalloy top, particularly a BULT-type, which is all I use, has plenty of meat to the ring and will distribute the stress just great.
rgds, Leprechaun
