guides
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Joined
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10,097 Posts
No problem with the Hardalloy and braids.
I have the BNLG pieces on many of my fluke sticks and all I use is braid for the flatties, never a problem in five seasons of hard use.
The currently available braids are pretty much all made of Polyethylene - the same stuff as milk bottles, very slippery and in fact a chemical cousin of Teflon. Not that far away either.
The bad rep that braids initially got back when they were first introduced was caused by the use of Kevlar, not PE as the fiber. The early Kevlar lines were coarse and tended to pick up sand and debris during use and this acted as a string saw on the guides. Hence the stories of grooved guides.
All this changed with the introduction of PE, tightly woven lines.
If you are REALLY concerned, then use an S.I.C. or Carbolloy tip and go with the lesser-pirced Hardalloy for the guides.
Or not, a Hardalloy top, particularly a BULT-type, which is all I use, has plenty of meat to the ring and will distribute the stress just great.
rgds, Leprechaun
I have the BNLG pieces on many of my fluke sticks and all I use is braid for the flatties, never a problem in five seasons of hard use.
The currently available braids are pretty much all made of Polyethylene - the same stuff as milk bottles, very slippery and in fact a chemical cousin of Teflon. Not that far away either.
The bad rep that braids initially got back when they were first introduced was caused by the use of Kevlar, not PE as the fiber. The early Kevlar lines were coarse and tended to pick up sand and debris during use and this acted as a string saw on the guides. Hence the stories of grooved guides.
All this changed with the introduction of PE, tightly woven lines.
If you are REALLY concerned, then use an S.I.C. or Carbolloy tip and go with the lesser-pirced Hardalloy for the guides.
Or not, a Hardalloy top, particularly a BULT-type, which is all I use, has plenty of meat to the ring and will distribute the stress just great.
rgds, Leprechaun
Joined
·
10,661 Posts
Wreckfisher
Hi,
An excellent reply by Leprechaun. Thanks Lep.
BNLG type guides are used on most of the rods I build. Remember to grind the hump off the end of the guide feet. Make it a flat angle up the guide foot ramp about 2/3's of the way. Then debur/polish the ground away area. The idea of this is to hopefully make the guide feet more flexible and hopefully retard the time before the epoxy cracks at the end of the foot. This new ramp allows the thread to slide up the ramp while wrapping.
Make sure you get the epoxy into the tunnel formed by the thread coming over the guide foot and before the thread touches the blank. Filling this cavity on both sides prevents the guide from sliding sideways.
Hi,
An excellent reply by Leprechaun. Thanks Lep.
BNLG type guides are used on most of the rods I build. Remember to grind the hump off the end of the guide feet. Make it a flat angle up the guide foot ramp about 2/3's of the way. Then debur/polish the ground away area. The idea of this is to hopefully make the guide feet more flexible and hopefully retard the time before the epoxy cracks at the end of the foot. This new ramp allows the thread to slide up the ramp while wrapping.
Make sure you get the epoxy into the tunnel formed by the thread coming over the guide foot and before the thread touches the blank. Filling this cavity on both sides prevents the guide from sliding sideways.
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