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ANYONE DO ANY MEASURING OF THEIR FUEL CONSUMPTION THESE DAYS?? I HAVE A 19' BOWRIDER WITH A 190 HP I/O 4 CYL. I NEVER PAID ATTENTION BEFORE. HAVE NOT USED MY BOAT THIS YEAR. GOING TO TAKE IT TO CAPE COD WONDERING HOW BROKE I WILL COME HOME. THANKS.

BAITFISHER:confused:
 

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Better believe it.
Bought my boat last year,installed fuel flo this year.

I try to run around 4000-4200rpm which puts me around 30mph depending on conditions and load and that is my sweet spot.

2 people, 3/4 tank and flat water, trimmed right and my 175 2 stroke carbed JOhnson on my 21'CC will get 2.1-2.4mpg.

95% of time now I base my rpm (and ultimately speed) on what my fuel flo says, unless water gets real bumpy or have passengers (wife and kid) who are more sensitive to a little bumping around. Then I use a bit more tab and maybe slow down a bit, but their is a certain point where the boat runs most efficient and I try and keep it their as often as I can.

Last year, without tabs, SS prop or the fuel flo, I was def burning more fuel as I was running closer to 25mph thinking I was using less fuel. I get better economy at 30 then I do at 25. Most of the time.
 

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fuel/money saving...

It is good to know your fuel consumption and how to maximize it.

Bottom paint is a huge one. Mooncratered hulls can really suck the fuel down.

Weight in another, especially on small boats. Lighter is not always better on mid size and larger boats. My boat runs faster with full tanks than near empty tanks. The hull like a lot of weight midships. My tanks are close to full most of the time.

I wouldn't recommend going out and buying a flowscan though. Everyone knows what rpm maximizes fuel flow from any chart available on the web. It will take a long time to save enough gas to pay the thing off when you know what rpms are best without the flowscan. Flowscan is better suited for twins that need to synchronize and burn a ton of fuel. Not really needed for a 4 banger I/O, won't pay you back anytime soon, or later either.

The hydrofoil fins on small boats will also save a ton of gas if you jump on plane often skiing or running drifts for fluke fishing. One of the cheapest upgrades that will pay you back many times over. 50 bucks for immediate payback.

Stripping and setting up the bottom with the right low friction paint is a lot more work but starts paying back immediately.

Another side note is props. There are a lot of boats out there that are overpropped/overgeared and lugging. Make sure your boat jumps right into the max rpm rated range window without making you wait and without porpoising, etc. The boat should be peppy and jump right up onto plane, full tanks or not, without playing with trim tabs for 5 minutes. Trim tabs are not for planing except in the case of a boat that could be set up a lot better, they are using one at a time for correcting a slight list from a quartering sea so you can maintain a course more comfortably in big waves without having to zigzag and waste more fuel than necessary.

Keep the canvas rolled up. A parachute. Parachutes add drag, use more fuel.

That's all I can think of right now.
 

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Fuel Flow Meter

I think a fuel flow meter (whatever manufacturer) is a great tool to have. While engine specs may give you a ball park gph, every hull is different and your consumption is greatly affected by how much load you have on the boat. A floscan can tell you exactly your gph; alittle math and you know your mpg; the totalizer function is also very nice.

Like mike said, slower does not always mean better fuel efficiency.

Just my opinion.
 
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