Got out into the Ocean out or Jones Inlet for fluke yesterday in 55-70 feet of water south of the Needle 10:30 to 11:30. Hooked 4 fish one fat keeper fluke on the boat. I have a 25ft Grady Sailfish. We were able to hold our spot with the use of the GPS but the drift was up to 1.1mph at times. Is a drift sock in order out there? Also used 8-10oz bank with 20lb mono and very hard to feel the fish bite. I think I lost a couple from premature hooksets. My thoughts are to slow the drift with a drift sock, bounce the weight off the bottom so it does not catch and use bullets. Any other good tips for fluking in 60 feet of water and feeling the strike.
Fluking in 55 to 70 Feet of Water and feeling the Strike
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I use a top quality graphite blank 2-4 oz.(fast taper) with whiplash 50lb test.
easily handles weight to 10 oz. and with the whiplash I can feel their teeth grinding on the hook!
The smaller diameter also allows for smaller wieghts.
That 20 lb mono is stretching like crazy and that heavy rod (fiberglass??) takes away all the sensitivity.
easily handles weight to 10 oz. and with the whiplash I can feel their teeth grinding on the hook!
The smaller diameter also allows for smaller wieghts.
That 20 lb mono is stretching like crazy and that heavy rod (fiberglass??) takes away all the sensitivity.
Mike-
I have found that when fluking in those depths, especially if you're using heavy sinkers, giving the rig a slow, easy lift a few inches off the bottom every minute or so works well.It does get hard to feel hits from fluke in 50+ ft, more so when using 8-10 oz of lead.When you lift, if you feel additional weight, just lift a little higher and harder.Bullets,Terminators, ect often work well out there, but it becomes a problem using them when you have a fast drift like you had.You may also want to try using the new braided lines, but I don't have too much experience with them so I can't tell you too much. Mabey someone else can?
Anyway, hope this helps somewhat, be happy to try to assist more, if needed.
Good Luck, and tight lines!!!
I have found that when fluking in those depths, especially if you're using heavy sinkers, giving the rig a slow, easy lift a few inches off the bottom every minute or so works well.It does get hard to feel hits from fluke in 50+ ft, more so when using 8-10 oz of lead.When you lift, if you feel additional weight, just lift a little higher and harder.Bullets,Terminators, ect often work well out there, but it becomes a problem using them when you have a fast drift like you had.You may also want to try using the new braided lines, but I don't have too much experience with them so I can't tell you too much. Mabey someone else can?
Anyway, hope this helps somewhat, be happy to try to assist more, if needed.
Good Luck, and tight lines!!!
spider wire
Mike,
I've been using spider wire(14lb test fusion) for 3 years now. I can hold bottom at that drift speed with a 3-6 ounce bank sinker. My dad uses fireline and often has to use 2-3 ounces more than I do. Also, I only need to change the line once a year and I do a lot of fluke and bottom fishing. Trouble with spider wire is that is hard to find. Usually, I have to run to Sports Authority to get it. At $6.50 for a 150 yards it's fairly inexpensive compared to some of the other stuff.
You may also want to switch to a graphite pole. That'll make a big difference too.
Riz
Mike,
I've been using spider wire(14lb test fusion) for 3 years now. I can hold bottom at that drift speed with a 3-6 ounce bank sinker. My dad uses fireline and often has to use 2-3 ounces more than I do. Also, I only need to change the line once a year and I do a lot of fluke and bottom fishing. Trouble with spider wire is that is hard to find. Usually, I have to run to Sports Authority to get it. At $6.50 for a 150 yards it's fairly inexpensive compared to some of the other stuff.
You may also want to switch to a graphite pole. That'll make a big difference too.
Riz
I you're gonna use braid, don't use a 100% graphite rod. The graphite is not very resistant to the lack of stretch in braided line and you could end up with an unwanted 2 piece rod. Instead go with a composite rod by Calstar or Lamiglass. You will find that the braid is a HUGE advantage in the conditions that you describe. You will feel every pebble and every fish that even breathes on your bait. IMO, the best braid on the market is Power Pro. It is softer and much more managable than the other brands.
Gamakatsu
Gamakatsu
Thanks for all the tips. Sounds like we have some deep water flukers. Let me clarify by adding that I am using a 6 foot, Ugly Stick, Factory Made Custom rod weighted for up to 25 lb test with the Abu 6500 mag. I use this for bass and bay flukies and it it pretty sesitive for both bass and fluke. Bacala-I actually started to do that yesterday experimenting how I could not plow the weight along the bottom.
Dr. Fish-Light tackle is a very nice option. I will sometimes use 15lb for bass. Even with the schoolies you get great action.
Gamakatsu: I seem to hear a lot of good things about power pro.
Thanks to all. Can't wait to go hunting again. Is it Saturday yet?
Mike
Dr. Fish-Light tackle is a very nice option. I will sometimes use 15lb for bass. Even with the schoolies you get great action.
Gamakatsu: I seem to hear a lot of good things about power pro.
Thanks to all. Can't wait to go hunting again. Is it Saturday yet?
Mike
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1,548 Posts
Gami,
I started using Fireline for bottom fishing and fell in love with it. Tried some Power Pro, but seemed to like the Fireline better. HOWEVER, I had Fireline on my bucktailing spinning rod set up and was having problems casting it...switched to Power Pro and no more problems!!! Still love Fireline for tog'n, just seems to respond better for me but that might change this fall
I started using Fireline for bottom fishing and fell in love with it. Tried some Power Pro, but seemed to like the Fireline better. HOWEVER, I had Fireline on my bucktailing spinning rod set up and was having problems casting it...switched to Power Pro and no more problems!!! Still love Fireline for tog'n, just seems to respond better for me but that might change this fall
Gamakatsu:
I hear this over and over again about graphite and braids and I just do not believe it. I have muscled fish on loomis and st.croix rods for years with braid and never had a problem.
I think the big problem is that because of its small dia people put 50# braid on a 25# rated rod and then set the drag for the 50# line. No graphite rod is designed for this and trouble is bound to happen.
A good graphite rod with braided line and a properly set drag should not break.
graphites sensitivity, light weight, and tapers IMHO make them a superior choice for most if not all inshore fishing.
Waveguide on the side
I hear this over and over again about graphite and braids and I just do not believe it. I have muscled fish on loomis and st.croix rods for years with braid and never had a problem.
I think the big problem is that because of its small dia people put 50# braid on a 25# rated rod and then set the drag for the 50# line. No graphite rod is designed for this and trouble is bound to happen.
A good graphite rod with braided line and a properly set drag should not break.
graphites sensitivity, light weight, and tapers IMHO make them a superior choice for most if not all inshore fishing.
Waveguide on the side
deep
I'm using 30# test PowerPro which has the diameter of about 8# test mono. Graphite rod. Great combo. The smaller diameter cuts through the water allowing less weight. The line also does not stretch like mono, so you gain sensitivity there as well. The graphite rod also helps the sensitivity. I've had zero problems with the powerpro except that the moss green color wears off. The fish don't seem to mind. Its about $10 for 150 yards.
...mocean
I'm using 30# test PowerPro which has the diameter of about 8# test mono. Graphite rod. Great combo. The smaller diameter cuts through the water allowing less weight. The line also does not stretch like mono, so you gain sensitivity there as well. The graphite rod also helps the sensitivity. I've had zero problems with the powerpro except that the moss green color wears off. The fish don't seem to mind. Its about $10 for 150 yards.
...mocean
Waveguide, I'm not going to say that every graphite rod is going to break with braid. However, graphite is very funny stuff and it only has to happen to you once. I had a Loomis rod that I beat the crap out of fishing for tarpon when I lived in Florida. I used to lift large cudas out of the water and was convinced that it was indestructible. One day it was leaning against my car and fell over. It broke about 3/4 of the way down from tip and it was not a hard fall. While I've never personally witnessed a graphite rod break from using braid, I've heard stories and I tend to believe them. I've just seen too many strange incidents of graphite rods breaking. Not to mention, you get the same sensitivity with a composite blank, and I've only heard of one of them breaking (I'll let Billy40 tell that story if he's still around here).
Gamakatsu
Gamakatsu
lkylindy
Are you talking about Yozuri's Hybrid line. I have it and its comming off my reels today. I like the line but I hate the line 10-12lb test with a 4-6 ounce anything will get the last 6 feet your line streched and coiled as well as every time I fight a decent fish. Constantly cutting away line. Have spoken with quite a few guys about this and seem to have a concensus. On the other hand I have landed more fish this year, not to mention bigger fish than years prior. Is it the line? The line is definately pretty strong, ties easily, and has a great many advantages.
Not my choice for fluking.
Are you talking about Yozuri's Hybrid line. I have it and its comming off my reels today. I like the line but I hate the line 10-12lb test with a 4-6 ounce anything will get the last 6 feet your line streched and coiled as well as every time I fight a decent fish. Constantly cutting away line. Have spoken with quite a few guys about this and seem to have a concensus. On the other hand I have landed more fish this year, not to mention bigger fish than years prior. Is it the line? The line is definately pretty strong, ties easily, and has a great many advantages.
Not my choice for fluking.
Joined
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1,621 Posts
I believe Lami calls their composite rods E-glass, a mixture of fiberglass and graphite, spiderwire Fusion is acually Spiderline Fusion, I'm using it now (Cabella's catelog)only as a test case because it's 1/2 the price of Fireline (which I use for everything including surf fishing, no trouble casting here). Spiderline Fusion has a coating on it that protects it's kevlar fibers which is easily rubbed off if rubbed against any abrasive surface (Rocks, boat bottom, etc.)line performs well but I don't like the coating issue, never had that happen with Fireline. Been on alot of Charter boats that have their reels spooled with Power Pro, just costs so **** much money. Learning to feel bottom while drifting Fluke in deep water is an art! Many people need to let out a ton of line to stay in contact with the bottom where others don't let out half as much using the same line and lead. with deep water refrain from high lifts off the bottom to feel for weight, lift lightly and you won't have to let out so much line and you'll have better feel. my $.02. keep it reel!
drift speed
If you are going to slow your drift, remember to check out what your bait looks like at that speed. Last weekend, I was drifting pretty fast, but my bait looked like garbage. Adding some speed to it made it come alive. Instead of jigging the bait for movement, I added some power drifting to the already fast current. Might have been easier to switch rigs, but I started to hook-up when I added the power. Wasn't the easiest fishing, but it worked for me when nothing much else did.
...mocean
If you are going to slow your drift, remember to check out what your bait looks like at that speed. Last weekend, I was drifting pretty fast, but my bait looked like garbage. Adding some speed to it made it come alive. Instead of jigging the bait for movement, I added some power drifting to the already fast current. Might have been easier to switch rigs, but I started to hook-up when I added the power. Wasn't the easiest fishing, but it worked for me when nothing much else did.
...mocean
fluking
Many times i fish for fluke in deep water and there is always a misconception about ur sinker hitting the bottom directly. If ur using 8 and 10 oz sinkers u will miss thos finicky bights. Use a six ounce trust me u will have to let out line but ur leader with the bait is definitely touching bottom and fluke like an active presentation. good luck next time. Take this advice
Bringem over the rails
Many times i fish for fluke in deep water and there is always a misconception about ur sinker hitting the bottom directly. If ur using 8 and 10 oz sinkers u will miss thos finicky bights. Use a six ounce trust me u will have to let out line but ur leader with the bait is definitely touching bottom and fluke like an active presentation. good luck next time. Take this advice
Bringem over the rails
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4,057 Posts
Mike84
I read many good suggestions on this topic just now. Plenty of sharpies out
there. I agree with using Power Pro for
fishing deep for fluke. I have used
braided lines for about five years now and find Power Pro is the most effective. Try to remember it's not
mono and set the hook less aggressively! Most people will tell you not even to set the hook. Just reel your line in. I usually lift the rod tip
up slowly. If I feel constant weight, I
will gently snap my wrist to set the hook. So far, it has worked very well.
The rod and reel you are currently using are fine. It is VERY important to
set the drag correctly on the reel. When you hook a doormat in deep water it will feel like bottom. Don't give up hope. Keep reeling! Slow and steady...
Good Luck!
I read many good suggestions on this topic just now. Plenty of sharpies out
there. I agree with using Power Pro for
fishing deep for fluke. I have used
braided lines for about five years now and find Power Pro is the most effective. Try to remember it's not
mono and set the hook less aggressively! Most people will tell you not even to set the hook. Just reel your line in. I usually lift the rod tip
up slowly. If I feel constant weight, I
will gently snap my wrist to set the hook. So far, it has worked very well.
The rod and reel you are currently using are fine. It is VERY important to
set the drag correctly on the reel. When you hook a doormat in deep water it will feel like bottom. Don't give up hope. Keep reeling! Slow and steady...
Good Luck!
To all who posted suggestions. Went with the fireline and used some of the techniqes and nailed them. Up to 40 fish total for the boat and 10 keepers of which only 3 were kept. Fished JI and Outside. Worked the rod and let line out when a strike came and fish took the bait then closed the drag. Was able to feel all strikes with the fireline. Thanks to all for the tips.
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