This is what works for me.
I usually fish area's that I have seen baby founder shooting around, caught in a bait net, or have caught large flounder before. Muddy flat areas are great. I prefer 6-12 ft of water but can get them on either side of these depths and have had them in 1ft! If you can get on grass banks that elevate you and put you into good, deeper water, you may be able to chum and fish straight down off of there. I like an area that is stagnent with little moving water. I also like ultra-lite spinning gear if casting for flounder from shore. I prefer 1/2-1oz sinkers and 6lbs test. Since you can't sincker bounce and chum were your casting, it becomes a drag-and-find fish tactic. I usually cast,wiat 30 sec-minute, slow pull, 1 inch per second for a foot, then reel down the slack wait 30sec-1m and repeat. When you feel a tiny fast tap-tap-tap, stop and let him eat it. 5 seconds will do and then set the hook with a fast, short jerk. I would crack and toss 5 muscles around your casting area as far as you can and toss a few every 15 minutes. I would have started the chumming 2 weeks ago. The bag on shore won't hurt but I don't think it will be as affective as the ones tossed deeper. Muscles are the best bait! Bank- (brown with the lines, not the black, smooth ones that look like the ones you eat. They will be yellow inside not orange. The banks can be casted if you know how to crack and peel one side and scrape the entire muscle out in one piece without damaging it. You can then bait it in-and-out 3 times to cover the shank and it should survive the cast. Easy way out, Bloods are more durable followed by sands (the tail end that I like to leave-1/4 or have inch below shank always seems to tear on sands when casting) for casting but are expensive. You can definitely get a catch together though and if you work a spot consistantly and get some fish to hang around but chumming you could have somthing product in a few weeks.
Tie rigs direct. Tie a double hitch loop for a sinker on bottom, then a dropper loop 3in above that and loop-to-loop your flounder hook to that. Use a single if your baiting with muscle. It will be sensitive enough to know if you casted the muscle off instead of waisting your time fishing without bait. Go doubles with another dropper loop 6-8" above the first if your worming it.
Do not confuse fluke with flounder techniques. They are as different as fishing for blackfish, bass etc. Good luck and let us know how you do. One time in particular I had a great day in my row boat and just made a couple of filet packs for the freezer. My grandmother asked if we could have fish for dinner but they had already froze. I ran down to the spot, wadded to waist deep water and casted out for 3 quick flounder in 15 minutes. Chum, chum, chum-just don't over feed!
I usually fish area's that I have seen baby founder shooting around, caught in a bait net, or have caught large flounder before. Muddy flat areas are great. I prefer 6-12 ft of water but can get them on either side of these depths and have had them in 1ft! If you can get on grass banks that elevate you and put you into good, deeper water, you may be able to chum and fish straight down off of there. I like an area that is stagnent with little moving water. I also like ultra-lite spinning gear if casting for flounder from shore. I prefer 1/2-1oz sinkers and 6lbs test. Since you can't sincker bounce and chum were your casting, it becomes a drag-and-find fish tactic. I usually cast,wiat 30 sec-minute, slow pull, 1 inch per second for a foot, then reel down the slack wait 30sec-1m and repeat. When you feel a tiny fast tap-tap-tap, stop and let him eat it. 5 seconds will do and then set the hook with a fast, short jerk. I would crack and toss 5 muscles around your casting area as far as you can and toss a few every 15 minutes. I would have started the chumming 2 weeks ago. The bag on shore won't hurt but I don't think it will be as affective as the ones tossed deeper. Muscles are the best bait! Bank- (brown with the lines, not the black, smooth ones that look like the ones you eat. They will be yellow inside not orange. The banks can be casted if you know how to crack and peel one side and scrape the entire muscle out in one piece without damaging it. You can then bait it in-and-out 3 times to cover the shank and it should survive the cast. Easy way out, Bloods are more durable followed by sands (the tail end that I like to leave-1/4 or have inch below shank always seems to tear on sands when casting) for casting but are expensive. You can definitely get a catch together though and if you work a spot consistantly and get some fish to hang around but chumming you could have somthing product in a few weeks.
Tie rigs direct. Tie a double hitch loop for a sinker on bottom, then a dropper loop 3in above that and loop-to-loop your flounder hook to that. Use a single if your baiting with muscle. It will be sensitive enough to know if you casted the muscle off instead of waisting your time fishing without bait. Go doubles with another dropper loop 6-8" above the first if your worming it.
Do not confuse fluke with flounder techniques. They are as different as fishing for blackfish, bass etc. Good luck and let us know how you do. One time in particular I had a great day in my row boat and just made a couple of filet packs for the freezer. My grandmother asked if we could have fish for dinner but they had already froze. I ran down to the spot, wadded to waist deep water and casted out for 3 quick flounder in 15 minutes. Chum, chum, chum-just don't over feed!
