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Last week you gave me great advice re leader for fluke. My question now concerns fishing line for fluke. I enjoy drift fluke fishing in western LI Sound with a silver bullet and teaser about 15" above the leader.

I've been using 20lb power pro. I see ads for mono, fluorocarbon, braid, etc. Each claim is more sincere than the next one. What do you and the other experienced guys reading your site use?
 

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Hi Melfluke,

Since you are planning to bounce around with a silver bullet? You really can?t beat the sensitivities of a braid line! There?s no stretch and the hook set is fast and hard!

When using braid or any other hi-tech line (zero stretch line), just remember not to set your hook too hard when using a graphite rod. It?s also a good idea not to use a 100% graphite rod because you will run the risk of breaking it?. I strongly recommend a composite (graphite/glass) rod - which has a little ?give? in it!

I noticed you are already using the PowerPro line... I also used it and I like it a lot! ;)

Just wondering? how many people out there converted to braid lines. If so, what are your favorite brands? Let?s hear it folks.

"Crazy" Alberto
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I agree - Power Pro with Bucktails and light jigs. Allows you to fish lighter heads and still feel the bottom. For Fluke I like using all graphite though, as there is much more of a selection and I'm (so far) careful. I also build my rods to try and protect the blank from any sharp points which would put the rod in a sharp bend and facilitate breaking.

Doesn't get any better than bouncing bucktails with light gear.
 

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Went to Fireline on my 8 foot St. Croix - love it. Super sensitive. Took me awhile to get used to it - kept thinking I had something playing with the lure or bait when it was only the natural movement of both. Never really felt that before with mono. Using their 14 # test spooled onto a Penn 5500 spinning reel. The St. Croix is the Ben Dorr Surf Elite @ 8'3". Nice set-up for bassing from shore.

Only down side - if it hooks the bottom - you'll never get it off. The knot strenght is so strong it won't break off no matter how hard I pull. Usually end up cutting the line - which itself is not the easiest thing to do. Can get expensive @ $15 for 125 yards.
 

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wader wrote:
Only down side - if it hooks the bottom - you'll never get it off. The knot strenght is so strong it won't break off no matter how hard I pull. Usually end up cutting the line - which itself is not the easiest thing to do. Can get expensive @ $15 for 125 yards
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Hello Wader,
That is a common problem with the new high-tech lines and in due time it will cost you $$$$! Here is a tip for you and it will save you the headaches and money.

For starters... Do not tie your lure/hook direct -or- use the same lbs. test leader when using bread!
It is a good idea to use a less lbs. test leader tied to the main line! Now, next time you get stuck... the weaker portion of the line (leader) will break first - Hence, save you from cutting the expensive main line!

Hope this helps! ;)

"Crazy" Alberto
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Albie - I've tried that - still have trouble getting it free. I think the rating on the Fireline is somewhat understated - I've had 20 # mono go at the rate of stress I put on the 14# Fireline & the Fireline still won't let go.

I mount a mono leader to the Fireline via a snap swivel all time when bait fishing (this is usually where I snag the bottom). Before going to Fireline I used to use 14# mono with a 20# mono leader. If I snagged bottom - the 14# mono usually went at the snap swivel (the cinch knot usually gave). I'm using the same set-up only with 14# Fireline & nothing gives.

Also - wouldn't want to step down much on the leader test when I'm using 14# test on the main line. In the past - always counted on the cinch knot going - with the Fireline - that doesn't happen.



This message was edited by wader on 2-5-02 @ 6:07 PM
 

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hey guys, hows it holding up? i hope all is well and you are all like me, dieing from cabin fever!!! anyways i say that braided line is great for bottom fishing, especially blackfish, but i am not to big on it for eeling as well as a few other methods, but to each his own! i hear those offshore seabass trips are hot right now as well, might do one this weekend....stay tuned....--->ronnie
 

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triniron wrote:
hey guys, hows it holding up? i hope all is well and you are all like me, dieing from cabin fever!!! anyways i say that braided line is great for bottom fishing, especially blackfish, but i am not to big on it for eeling as well as a few other methods, but to each his own! ...
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Hello Triniron

No cabin fever here... I am still fishing around for C&R Bass, Blackfish, fly casting and doing the freshwater thing.

Also, I agree about your comment that the braid is NOT for every kind of fishing (mostly bottom/wreck fishing). I still use mono for porgies, powercasting, plugging and tuna fishing. ;)

Good luck on your seabass trip. Please keep us posted!

"Crazy" Alberto
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Wader wrote:
I've tried that - still have trouble getting it free. I think the rating on the Fireline is somewhat understated - I've had 20 # mono go at the rate of stress I put on the 14# Fireline & the Fireline still won't let go?.
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Wader,

That is true to some brands? It is very common for the braid line to be overrated (more strength than stated). Therefore it is a good idea to give it a stress test (with a scale) to see its actual lbs. test! That goes to some mono line too.

That is why if you are going for an IGFA record? your line need to be tested (verified) accordingly.

"Crazy" Alberto
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I fish Power Pro braid also and I love it. Like CA, I fish a short length of mono at the end which facilitates the breaking out process, along with a few other advantages. I also keep a small piece of wooden dowel in my bag for the very stubborn snags. I just wrap the line around the dowel to break out instead of cutting the line as braid can be dangerous if you try to pull it out by hand. This should not be an issue while fluking since the boat is drifting, just put the reel in gear and apply pressure to the spool with your thumbs letting the boat break you out. Just make sure that your rod is pointing towards the line and that you are not using the rod to break the line (the line can break the rod).

Gamakatsu
 

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Opinari - 20 or 30 # test always struck me as overkill for the size stripers & blue fish I take out of the Nissequoge which is where I do 90% of my fishing. Very rarely hook a fish over 20#'s.

Always used 14# mono for it's casting ability & allowed me to play the fish as well. Just set the drag appropriately.

Seems 20 or 30# is like having a winch on the reel. Lock the drag & crank away.



This message was edited by wader on 2-8-02 @ 12:58 PM
 

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Fishing with braid has it's pros and cons. If I fish the bays for fluke, I rarely use braid. Not much line, not much stretch. The ocean, might warrant braid, dependant upon depth of water. I usually attach a 5 Ft. section of fluorocarbon leader. Depth and running tide determines the use of braid for me. When I fish on a crowded Party boat, I try to avoid braid. Makes a nasty tangle.
Is there any preference to braid out there?
 

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Al,
I switched my fluke rods over to 14lb fireline. Big advantage to me is the sensitivity and the fact that I can tend bottom with a much lighter sinker. Breaking free of a snag isn't an issue if you just point the rod at the where the line enters the water and apply additional pressure to the reel with your hands.

===MakoMike===
 

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While we're on the subject of braided lines, maybe someone can help me with a problem that I am having.
Last year I switched to 14 lb spiderwire on all of my fluke rods (bait and jigging). When using jigs, I have no problem with the line. However, when I use a bait rig, the line and the rig gets twisted together. I've tried lowering it to the bottom slowly, but it still gets twisted. I've looked to see if the line is twisted, or anything like that, but there seems to be nothing wrong. It's gotten tot he point that I was going to switch back to mono on my bait rods.
Anybody else ever had this problem?
Thanks

~spinfreak~
 

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Spinfreak,
Yes I've experienced the same thing. I've found that it helps to use a snap swivel at the end of the line, in addition to the "normal" three way swivel. Sounds like a lot of hardware, but it does dramatically reduce the tangling. Just tie the snap swivel to the braid and put the snap on one end of the three way.

===MakoMike===
 
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