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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This year im keeping my boat in the parking lot at Rye Harbor and I wont be able to flush the motor.Does anybody use any other methods for flushing without a hose hookup? Maybe open the pet****s and drain the saltwater out... I just replaced most of the castiron and rather not do that again any time soon. Thanks Mike M MINI-LYNN II
 

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Moo,

I don't know how big your boat is, but a friend of mine had a 17 foot boat. What he used to do was place a 32 gallon garbage can under the engine and filled it with water. He then ran the engine for five minutes.
 

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ENGINE FLUSHING

Bring a 5gal. spackle bucket with lid full of fresh water. Rig a bilge pump with a cigarrette lighter plug. Rig the hose with a fitting that can be used with your I.O. flush system! Simple and cheap- just start the bilge pump BEFORE you try to flush the engine.
 

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No freshwater washdown at Rye

I checked Rye out last year,nice ramp, good docks,lots of parking.I really wanted to keep my boat there,to save me the 8 mile run out the Piscataqua river.I simply refuse to keep my boat in a place where they are too cheap to provide a nescesity like fresh water,and still charge a high price to use their State owned facillity.They should pay you to keep your boat there!
 

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flush toilets, not engines

do it once a year when winterizing. Flushing beats on the water pump & with the alloys of todays boats you'll put 3000 hrs. on 2 powerheads befor not flushing becomes an issue. Ive owned them , seen them for years on end and these outboards will go 10 or more years flushed or not.
 

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Scalawag

Thanks for the feedback.I've only been saltwater boating about 6 years,and was just trying to flush like the motor owners manual says to do.It's still nice to be able to hose the salt off your rig at the end of the day,whether you do an engine flush or not.
I never thought about it before,but I guess most of the folks that leave their boats in the water, at a dock,all season would probably only flush in the fall.Good point!!!
 

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yeah, she's gotta look good!

Lets see theres about 20 outboards @ my marina, Ive been there 5 yrs. Ive NEVER seen anyone flush these motors , including myself.
Unless your boating in the Dead Sea, or have the time in your drivway and hardly put hours on the motor.
I couldnt flush my engine it doesnt have a hose attachment and boat is docked, this a '00 Yamaha 70.
alan
 

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I believe the reason boats that are kept in the water are not as susceptible to the corrosive effects of salt water is that the lower units remain submerged most of the time. When a boat is removed from the water the lower unit drains and is exposed to air, and this is whay causes oxidation (rust). I also think the sacrificial anodes help with preventing corrosion. Best bet may be to check with your mechanic. Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
My engine is an I/O not an outboard, Most of the outboard engines have a lot of stainless steel for the cooling system, I think it is better to flush and my mechanic says I will have to replace the cast iron again in 3 to 4 years if I dont flush it.Thanks for the idea about the bilge pump I have a 15 gallon live well with a pump for airating that I can use. There is a hose on the dock for washdown and I will fill the livewell from that....Thanks again Mike M MINI-LYNN
 

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Guys, EVERY engine manufacturer recommends that you flush the engine after use in salt water. In fact, they recommend flushing it EVERY TIME after use. The reason is not only corrosion, but salt buildup in the cooling passages, which, on some engines are quite small.
I have had both kinds of engines - those equipped with a flush port (making it easy to flush in the water) and those without (making it almost impossible to flush in the water). I have also taken both kinds of engines apart. Flushing makes a difference with salt buildup.
This is not to say that your engine won't run fine for many years without periodic flushing. It's not a huge issue, just another minor thing to take care of.
It's not rust that's the problem, it's corrosion. They are different and are caused by different things.
Flushing does NOT beat on the water pump. However, take care as some engines should not be flushed in the horizontal position, only in the vertical, due to pressure forcing water up to the top and into areas where it could do some damage (old Johnsons). (These vertical flushers are the ones that are impossible to flush in the water. At least with an engine that you can flush horizontally, you can put muffs on it.) Always flush at low pressure.
Here's a tip: When flushing for the winter, after a good fresh water cleaning flush, hook up a bucket (as described above) and run gallon of antifreeze through it. It will all run out, but it will provide a coating to help prevent rust in the cooling passages while stored.
 
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