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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'de like to know what are you guys setting your 50 class reels at with 80lb test mono. Are you setting them at strike at 18lbs? Do you ever set them at full drag and at what breaking percentage of the line?

What about 30 class reels used for trolling tuna with 50lb mono? Do you set them at strike or full drag and is the percentage of poundage vs line breaking, 20% or more? Whats the general rule of thumb?

Makomagic
 

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Drags

The 1/3 rule for 50lb is 17lbs of drag. My sharking rigs are set up with 80lb. I keep the drags set at 22lbs. This is more than enough to keep you in the fight but safe enough to keep you out of the drink should things get difficult, usually! Only had one problem Happened with Frito's on the deck. Leaned back while standing on them and went a flying, back still hurts. Won't be long.
 

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Setting drags.....

Make sure when you are setting the drags at 1/3 the breaking strength, that you use a spring scale the correct way. Run the line through the guides and make a loop. Use the hook on the scale to pull the line from the reel as if it were a fish!

The drag is NOT the same if you place the scale directly over the reel ~ without going through all the guides and bending the rod!

(This post edited by Makoman16 on 03/10/2003)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the quick come back guys, but are you setting them at strike or full drag? I do use a shimano scale and pull the line through all guides. Even put on my belt..LOL..... I use the 1/3 rule also.
Retriever, thank for the tip on the Fritos, I'll watch for them!

(This post edited by Makomagic on 03/10/2003)
 

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Glenn,
Set the 50's with 80lb test to 18lbs drag at STRIKE.On the 30's with 50lb test for inshore tuna I set them at about 15-17lbs of drag at FULL. Also after I set the lines out for trolling I set the levers just before strike.I would also set your drags up from a rod holder rather than holding it with a belt on,it might make a difference.
paulie
 

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Becareful>>>>>>>

Guys setting your drags on lever type reels is truly tricky and depends on the reel 100%.All reel companies make there reels differently. So you must take this into consideration! For example take a Penn international. I find or they even recommend to set your drag at strike, not at full drag. I have seen many fish busted of when going past the strike position and don?t recommend it! The reason being when you go past strike unless your reel has been tweaked or blue printed you create a heavy pressure on the spool which in turn creates more drag under pressure. So the spool pressure will not only increase your drag but will give you an unstable drag pressure which is a 50- 50 chance of a line strength break! Now on the reels such as an Everol the drag works much different and has the capability of truly putting on higher pressure with out spool binding!
There is a free spooler which could modify most big game lever drag reels and if you plan on going above the rated drag on the reels I suggest you look into having the modifications done by a good blue printer such as Chris Tuna toys from this site.
Shimano and Tiburon have very good drags and will need testing to see the max drag pressure on each reel. As explained to me by Chris Tunatoys no 2 reels are identical and everyone has different spacing and characteristics so do check your reels individually to see if they are up to par. Another key point is when anglers get into a big fish many of them start to panic and I see them increasing the drag lever and pop goes the weasel!
Guys you must remember that as the spool gets lower in line capacity the drag pressure increases by you trying or thinking you have to stop the fish this is when the line will pop.
I always monitor my spool when fighting a big fish and a good rule of thumb is to back off your drag slightly at the 50% of the spool mark. The heavier pressure is used at the right times such as a straight up and down stand off , or what I call the Tuna circle.
So as a n angle it is important to understand your reel as well as the characteristics! Not only what he drag pressure is set at. This will help you to land the big one think less is more and you?ll be fine
 

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I set my drags from the rod holder away from the boat-app. 25-30ft. They are set according to listed line strength! I set them at 30% not 1/3! Example 80lb. test-80 devided by 10 = 8, then mu;tiple by 3 = 24. The drAG IS SET AT STRIKE AT 24#. For shark I sometimes set the lever just above free spool, and when trolling I set the lever lower than strike!
Hipshot
Better to have a looser drag, than one that is overset!
 

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every time. before we leave the dock one guy stands in the boat ,behind the leaning post with the rod, and one guy stands on the dock with the scale.the guy on the dock ripps the line off at strike. and the guy on the rod reels it in,over and over again . we do this about 15 to 20 times to get the drags heated up a little then set them at 25#, on strike, for 80 # test for the shark rods
 

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Strike

MM,
I set my drags like B/A 80 test 50 reel gets 18 pounds at strike and like Mako16 said, you must thread the rod and pull the drag in the natural bend the rod would take during the fight. 18 pounds is very good on big sharks. You don't want them boat side to fast. That is when things break! The beauty of 18 pounds at strike is that if it is a large shark that you plan to release after you I.D him, you can advance the reel to full. Full should be 24 26 pounds. On full if the line fails, your plan was release anyway. It also saves alot of time releasing the fish. We have fought large blues for as long as an hour, he is now close for the ID and then takes off, with 24 pounds his runs will be a lot shorter.
 
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