[GoodChance]

I'm going to cut of the window openings for my Duffy cabin this weekend. I'm going with B&J windows and they require a 3.5" radius (size of a 1-gallon paint can). I know that I want the windows to be parallel on all 4 sides of the cabin. And I know that I want to immediately seal the plywood end-grain with epoxy resin. I'm going with 4 same-sized windows on the front, 2 on each side and 1 on each aft bulkhead. Any other advice from those of you who may have done this before, want to offer?

This post edited by GoodChance 11:17 AM 09/12/2008

 

[oldmil007]

It's a bit difficult for me to ascertain from your picture(looks like it's going to be a great boat!) but have you completed all the fiberglassing, filling and fairing you intend to do? If not, you might want to consider waiting until those steps are completed before cutting your window holes. Props to you for planning to epoxy coat the exposed end grain wood. Is the cabin interior being seal coated at the same time also?

What will the exterior surface be, paint or gelcoat?


- Jay

 

[GoodChance]

Thanks for the advice Jay. To answer your questions, No she isn't completely faired yet. I'm about 1/2 way there and still have some rough areas to fix to my level of satisfaction. I was thinking that it would be easier to fair with the windows openings already removed .... maybe not? As the picture shows, I still need to seal and fiberglass the sides of the house (all done with epoxy). My plan is to seal/saturate the wood, fiberglass, fair with cabosil and microballoons, Awlgrip high build, Awl grip primer, final top coat. This will be done on both the inside and out.

But you think that it would be easier to seal, fiberglass and fair BEFORE the windows are cut out uh?

 

[Lattitudechange]

When your ready to cut your openings, may I suggest making templates out of ridged cardboard or 1/4" plywood. Preferably the later. The templates serve several purposes. One you can move them around till your satisfied with the location of each window. You can also use them as a marking gauge by tracing the outline. If you make templates out of 1/2" ply, you can use a router to make your openings. By using a router you'll get a cleaner cut, also make applying the epoxy easier. Just make sure to reduce the size of the template by the size of the cutting bit. I think it's definatly worth the extra time and work to see every angle before you make the cuts.

 

[EdP35]

If you ahven't already received the windows, make templates first then send them to the window manufacturer so they can build the windows off of them. Make sure you make two sets so you can double check the windows against the templates after they arrive. Manf. sometimes have been known to make mistakes

.

Templates are also good way to see how the windows will look prior to ordering/installation.

If you can afford it, try to make sure at least two of the front windows open. It will make a huge difference in the summer.

Good Luck.

 

[tunaorlater]

In the past I have made templates and then waited for the windows to arrive before cutting them out. That way if there a little out its no big deal. Make the templates out of card board and paint them black so they stand out on the boat and you'll know weather or not you like them. Then make paper ones to send to the window company. Also, you may consider gel coating before painting. I have found that it works better than the high build primer for filling in viods. You still have to prime before awlgrip but the gel coat is easy to sand smooth and gets hard reasonably quick.

 

[encaa5]

Cutting windows

I agree with Tunaorlater.

Do not cut the cabin until you get the windows. I did and ended up with a lot of extra work because the windows were smaller then the opening. Do the finish work but do not cut.

Use the template to determine the look you want and send it to the supplier. I used diamond sea glaze

 

[encaa5]

cuttinf windows

Tunaorater

Not all epoxies are compatible with polyester resin based products like gel coat. I filled some small holes in my hull with epoxy. The gel goat did not adhere very well

 

[GoodChance]

Tuna -

I like that idea. I think that I'll go ahead and use your suggestion. I'm glad that I decided to seek advice before cutting.

Chris

 

[daddy0]

If you decide to make a template/ router guide do not make it to run the router on the out side of the template .should the router wander or skew it will make the cut larger than desired.
Make the router guide to the out side of the hole. Should the bit run off or skew ,it will cut to the inside and only damage the pug section to be discarded.
You may find that a Roto Zip will be easier , especially if the windows are close to the top or bottom.


This post edited by daddy0 07:12 PM 09/12/2008

 

[GoodChance]

I'm suprised taht several responses recommendated the use of a router to cut the windows. Why not a jig saw, followed bt 80grit orbital sander?

 

[daddy0]

A jig saw will make a much rougher cut, A router is also more accurate with a jig , the saw will push and pull the polyester laminate away from the plywood leaving more cleanup and prep to seal the edge of the plywood

 

[Lattitudechange]

You can use a router on the outside of a template if you run it counter clockwise. Constant light pressure towards the left will yeild a perfect opening. It can be done. I do it almost on a daily basis. Run off is from loss of control of the tool. I'll give you one better. Instead of using a basic three tip template bit, use a spiral up cut bit with a bushing. You cant get anything cleaner than that. One other thing, be prepared to get dusty.

Good chance, The use of a router will give a cleaner smoother cut. You can use a jig saw but you will experience crossgrain tear out. That tear out will make it more difficult in sealing all your edges. Why would you want to waste time sanding with a peashooter sander if you didn't have to. Save that for your bright work.

 

[Frigate]

Latti,

Not to be a wise A$$ but why counter clockwise? Is it because your right handed? Us left handed folks just wanted to know.

 

[hammerslammer]

rotation of the bit

 

[Lattitudechange]

Frigate, Your not a wise azz. HS has it right. A router rotates clockwise, so when you use it to run a pattern on the outside you would would want to control it counterclockwise.

 

[tunaorlater]

On a side note, do you have these 2 very important fairing tools?

 

[GoodChance]

Tuna -

Yep. Got 2 8" sanders - a Dewalt and Makita, both with variable speed control, one has a soft pad and the other a hard pad; got a few smaller 6" sanders; two small pneumatic sanders; plus a 17" Hutchins straight line sander.

Yeah, Tuna, I have all of the gear; I just don't like using it. I much prefer the construction, engine install, shaft alignment stuff over the tedious-nature of fairing and finishing. I know how to do it and am fairly good at it, but, man, I really hate it.

 

[tunaorlater]

LOL, Same here. I don't even mind the fiberglassing, just hate fairing it out. Anyway it's looking good, keep plugging away!!

 

[powderpro]

How are those various tools used in the fairing process. Give me a quick internet tutorial, please.