[Queensfishing]

Hi all

I am about to clean and respool my reels for spring. I need to make a decision about what line to load.
I have two outfits, both spinners,
8ft ultralight loomis with a Diawa capricorn 4000 (for bays,inlets, kayak)
10 ft surf rod (needs to be replaced this year) with a Stradic 6000

I am really still a newbie, although I've been fishing for years. This will be my 4th year casting mainly plugs & tins for bass & blues.

Casting is my serious weakness. I rarely feel like I know what I am doing, which is frustrating. So I am sure I am doing lots wrong. That being said, wind knots really piss me off more than anything, and they do seem to be more common with braid. Last year both reels had 40lb power pro on them. I have figured out that you can't cast light plugs into the wind, and keeping the tip down and the tension tight helps. I also met an old salt last year who suggested that I launch a heavier tin every 20-30 casts and reel it in fast to tighten up the line again. These tips have helped, but I am sure there has got to be more. Maybe I should try a different brand of line? Power Pro is seriously expensive and I am not impressed by how it holds up.

Constructive suggestions appreciated! Help a guy out

 

[likeitreallyis]

fireline and spiderwire cast better than power pro. I've had issues with PP also, but I'm sure you'll get guys who will say I have no idea what I'm doing so that is the problem.

30 pound on the 8 foot and 50 pound on the 10 foot. back it with some mono first. Casting with a heavy tin as the old guy said is a good idea. I like barrel swivels also to kep the line from twisting, also if possible once in a awhile feed the line out into the current with no lure on it to keep the twists to a minimum.. and cut back a few feet of it after each use.

 

[MaxKatt1]

I agree with the 30 and 50 recommendation by LikeitReally is, but I like Suffix in green. As for wind knots, it's been discussed here. Winding line on tight is good. Don't overspool. Bass pro has a neat tool to pick the knots when you get them, but many guys just use another hook, safety pin, or paper clip. Last, I don't know the specs on your rod and reel. Make sure they're matched well. Someone suggested to me that a big reel feeding line into a #1 guide that's too small will cause the line to jam up and knot.

 

[JaeVee]

What he said. Except I dont use swivels but I probably should. I used power pro for two years on different reels (spinners) and never had a wind know. Until I loaded up a new reel once and put too much on. Then it was a real problem. You might have just had a little too much on the spool. Nothin will kill your day more than dealing with those. I had no problems with power pro holding up though that is rare as far as I am hearing. I have also had spiderwire stealth and no problems there. I want to try some Berkely ultra cast this year on at least one rod.

 

[Fishalicious]

I just spooled up my Stradic 6000FI with 50lbs. Suffix Performance braid. I was set on buying Fireline, based on "ihavegills'" dissertation on breaking strength, but the guys at Meltzer's, where I bought the stuff, were adamant about Suffix being the better choice.

This will be my first season fishing braid, so I won't have anything to compare it to.

 

[MaxKatt1]

What he said back. You mentioned cost. The functionality of your line is of paramount importance. If it ain't working right, you're done. A couple extra bucks here is worth it. I use swivels. Again, I wouldn't skimp. The line, terminal tackle, hooks, etc. is the connection between you and the fish. I use a 60lb Sampo Crosslock with the ball bearing swivel on my 50lb Suffix. They also have a new one of these with some kind of lock in to prevent a fish from opening it in the event it actually clamps down on the swivel. To my knowledge this has never happened to me, but it's worth exploring. I think Spro is good too and have used them. Not familiar with any other brands.

 

[Queensfishing]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I usually tie my leader directly to the braid, then just a duolock to the plug, no swivel. I guess I think that the less hardware you have on the better. Also I have heard folx say that plugs don't swim as well with swivels, but I don't want to start an argument about it. Just explaining why I don't use swivels with lures.

I've been doing the mono backing first, then the braid. Gotta tell you, especially on the smaller reel, it doesn't leave much room for braid. You need to let a fish run a bit on light tackle, and I worry about getting spooled.

Also, I do cut back a few feet every trip out. By mid-simmer, I'm down kinda low, and then what? I've been adding on more braid with a uni-uni knot and a tiny drip on superglue, but it makes me nervous.

 

[MaxKatt1]

Probably won't start an argument...hopefully a healthy discussion/debate. Some guys won't even use the snap like you do, swearing by cutting and tying all the time. I think it's a choice issue.

I don't use much backing, just enough to avoid the slippage. Never been spooled in my life. Looking forward to it actually. Make sure your drag is set as agressively as you can manage without risking a breakoff and play the fish in right.

FishLicioius- Noted you're out of Piermont. I'm White Plains. Perhaps I'll see you on the pier in the Spring. I have yet to get a striper in the Hudson. Eels, catfish, white bass, no striper. Always with Bloodworms. Probably try from kayak this year to avoid the numerous snags from shore.

 

[RichTrox]

maxkatt wrote:
Make sure your drag is set as agressively as you can manage without risking a breakoff and play the fish in right.
Not to be contradictory here, but when fishing braid, you'll want to back off on the drag quite a bit until you get a feel for it. Braid does not stretch, which means you only have the give in the rod and your drag as a safety net. With an over-tight drag (or one that sticks), rods can get snapped (seen more than one Arra go this route) but more commonly, fish are lost because with the heavy lb test of braid, when a good fish runs on a tight drag, it'll pull the rod tip down until the rod is almost parallel to the water. Fish turns a bit, shakes his head with the slack while your still trying to get your bearings, and bingo, fish gone. Start with a fairly loose drag and keep the rod up during the fight. Tweak from there once you get the feel. -Rich

This post edited by RichTrox 03:43 PM 03/03/2008

 

[MaxKatt1]

No offense taken Rich. I understand your point. He was worried about getting spooled which is why I said tighten. Indeed that could be a problem if it was cranked down too tight and you latched into something more powerful.

 

[walleyeman]

Everyone has given some excellent opinions. I went to Sufix braid last year and was very pleased with it. When you find a line that works best and your confident with it - stick with it. It's good to do some homework and get input from others. Doug Olander has said, Braid over tests. Nearly always it it proves to be much stronger than the rating on the spoool - sometimes two or three times what it claims to be. He also stated, braid loses strength at the knot. How much has long been debated, but the industry has often cited 25-percent loss of strength at the knot as a fairly typical figure. I know this sounds as basic as can be but a well-tied knot is critically important! We can have the best line in the world but if we're not using the proper knots and they're not well-tied - it's game over. I would encourage you to go with a barrel swivel to connect your braid to the leader. Spro makes some very small and strong swivels. I almost always tie my leader directly to my lures - it can be a pain at times (especially if a blitz is going on) but I'm just very stubborn when it comes to that.

This post edited by walleyeman 05:17 PM 03/03/2008

 

[Ed The Red]

It costs more, but having your local B & T spool your reels on a proper line spooling machine will give you a reel with the correct tension and evenness for line. Will eliminate a great many braid problems.IMHO

 

[walleyeman]

Ed The Red wrote:
It costs more, but having your local B & T spool your reels on a proper line spooling machine will give you a reel with the correct tension and evenness for line. Will eliminate a great many braid problems.IMHO

 

[Queensfishing]

Can you get tackle shops to spool on another braid besides powerpro? The shops in queens only seem to have mono and pp.

Would you tie on additional line when your spool was getting low or rip it all off and respool with fresh line?

 

[MaxKatt1]

I usually replace the whole spool, but that is a bit wasteful. You just have to be careful to insure the place you join the lines is pretty far down in the spool. If it's in the first 70 yards or so, the knot sticks out and causes you to lose casting distance. I use a Uni Knot, but I don't know that it's best. I'm sure someone will chime in with a suggestion. I think there are different recommendations if you're joining mono's vs. braids.

Also...as walleye man points out, knots are the week spot. If a bigger fish takes off enough line to get down to the knot, there's now a second weak spot between the two of you.

 

[thecloser42]

Can someone explain the advantage of 50lb braid for plugging from the surf? I see so many guys spooled with 40 and 50 and i dont understand why.

thanks


Note i said plugging not throwing a 10oz sinker and a bunker head with a battle stick.

 

[unclegary47]

Not using swivels

Not one to argue here but how do you guys use spinning reels and NOT expect to get wind nots? Just by the mechanics of the bail turning again and again each time it puts a twist in your line. When you cast and the line is in free air the line twist back upon itself .I guess you can see it a lot more with mono . Had a friend of mine who was constantly snapping lures off and refused to use a swivel. Gave him one of mine outfits , same as his, rigged with a barrel to the leader and he didn't have any problems all day.
Just my .02

Good Fishin
UNc

 

[MaxKatt1]

To TheCloser42: Last year was my first throwing lures. I spooled 50 going off stuff I read. My think was also that the break point is somewhat below that with the knots and such, so really the connection is 30lb to 35lb strong. If I was lucky enough to tie into a 30-40lb fish that's getting close to break point. I know you have a drag, but still. Anyway, that was my rationale. I have wonder if I could scale down an pickup casting distance and depth. On fresh water I scaled down. Used to use 10-12 for bass, now use 8. I'd love some feed back on surf test opinion.

To UncleGary: Not sure premise is correct. I don't believe just reeling in a spinning reel puts twist in the line. If you're lure is spinning/helicoptering you run the risk, or if you continue to reel when the drag is paying out line you'll put in twist. I think you could cast a bucktail all season with no swivel and never get twist (assuming you didn't reel against outgoing drag)

 

[ihavegills]

Splicing braid to braid is a NEVER in my book. Some tests showed less than 50% strength.

I think 50#pp is used as a safety. I use 20# FL most of the time and 30# on 2 set-ups for larger plugs. And have had no problem with 40#fish. You pay for what you get. Read Skinners book and Zeno's. Heard alot about Fireline usage in there too.

I tie direct from line to leader and leader to lure. It is a pure connection to the lure and with the right knot combinations can be extremely strong. I mostly throw plugs that do not twirl or put torque in the line. If your throwing tins, I would suggest swivels on both the braid to leader connection and barrel snap to lure. The wind knots, as mentioned, can be avoided by not over spooling and making sure you lod the line without adding torque.

Hold a piece of string at each end between your thumb and index and twirl one end. See that loop that developes in the middle.....don't let that happen to your line. Offshore guys will drop there line out on the ride home with nothing attached to allow any twist to work out.

 

[Queensfishing]

Thanks Guys. This has been really helpful!!!

SO I amj now thinking that I'll change from PP on at least one of my setups. I'll probably load 50lb on the 10ft because truth is that I am going to splice on new line in August when my spool is gonna be low. If I am going to lose 50% of the strength in that splice, I'll still have at least 25.

I am all over this "pure connection" idea. I might try a longer leader and tie directly to the plug (or swivel with tins, that's a great suggestion).

Gotta run to work. Thanks again for the conversation.