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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up two Abu 5600 bcx reels from FFO to put on two rods I want to use for fluke.

I want to load them with 20-30 lb braid. I do not have alot of experience with braid. The manufacturer states that the reels will hold 205 yds of 12# mono.

My question is.....what should I expect to pay at a B&T shop to have this done, and should I (do I need to) use mono as a filler prior to placing the braid on?

I am assuming that it is cheaper to have the line loaded at a B&T than to buy the line and load it myself. Am I wrong?

Let er' rip..........




This post edited by gailwins 12:31 AM 01/26/2008
 

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Not all "super" braids are of the same uniform diameter, pound test for test. I have found that a 125 - 150yd spool of 30lb Spiderwire Stealth, Tuffline XP, or Stren Superbraid will completely fill a 5xxx-size Abu. (Try the yellow Stren, really good stuff, as is the Tuffline.)

No need to put mono under the braid, if you use three or four turns of black plastic electrical tape instead. Then whatever knot you normally use to connect your line to the spool hub will suffice.

No clue if its any cheaper to have a B&T do this job. I've never done it that way.

best, Lep
 

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You do need a mono backing, for alot of reasons. I used to do it my self, its not hard but alot of shops will spool it for free or minimal cost. The first time you do it you need to be carefull that you don't put on too much mono, too little mono, or spool it too loose. Any of those things happen and you'll be telling yourself "why didn't I let the shop do it." Its just one of those things were they get it right because they have done it a couple of hundred times.
 

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Hey lep,:)

wasn't shooting to contradict, your post wasn't there when I started typing, you must be faster on the key board.

I'm not familiar with that reel, but don't you loose alot of spool diamiter with out a backing?
 

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6to8 - its all good, dude!

I used to do the mono-under-braid thing. But I've found that just using a few turns of electrical tape will effectively give the same amount of "Bite" or cushion to the braid, and prevent line turn on the spool under heavy drag applications.

Much easier to deal with the tape - rather than guessing just how much mono to put under the braid to properly fill a reel. In the past I've done the "Reverse fill" method to help with this. Meaning put the braid on first, then the mono that will back it up, then crank it onto the identical reel - good if you have a pair of similar-sized reels.

I also found that no matter what form of backing I've chosen, I ALWAYS put braid on my reels under substantial pressure. This will prevent line "dig-in" and assure uniform loading. Pretty important if a 25lb bass or 15lb bluefish picks up your rig and tries to make spaghetti out of your delicate fluke stick. Hey, believe me, it happens!

Anyways, the black tape makes all that unnecessary. Give it a try and see if you don't agree.

Best, Lep

This post edited by Leprechaun 10:41 AM 01/26/2008
 

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All good points, most of which I have unfortuately learned the hard way :rolleyes:

I used to do this stuff myself, made up all kinds of tricks too. considered it part of the hobbie. Then I got boats, and they take up all the hobbie time I got, so I gave up on rod and reel repair, spooling line, and all that junk. now I leave it to the pros with the machines. most of it is relatively cheap in comparison.

Of course rigs I have to tie myself, you can't build a better mouse trap if your buying them at the store.
 

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" . . . you can't build a better mouse trap if your buying them at the store."

Truer words were never spoken.

Lep
 

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Leprechaun wrote:
6to8 - its all good, dude!

I used to do the mono-under-braid thing. But I've found that just using a few turns of electrical tape will effectively give the same amount of "Bite" or cushion to the braid, and prevent line turn on the spool under heavy drag applications.

Much easier to deal with the tape - rather than guessing just how much mono to put under the braid to properly fill a reel. In the past I've done the "Reverse fill" method to help with this. Meaning put the braid on first, then the mono that will back it up, then crank it onto the identical reel - good if you have a pair of similar-sized reels.

I also found that no matter what form of backing I've chosen, I ALWAYS put braid on my reels under substantial pressure. This will prevent line "dig-in" and assure uniform loading. Pretty important if a 25lb bass or 15lb bluefish picks up your rig and tries to make spaghetti out of your delicate fluke stick. Hey, believe me, it happens!

Anyways, the black tape makes all that unnecessary. Give it a try and see if you don't agree.

Best, Lep
lep, the way I like to spool 125 yd to 150 yd spools of braid is first tie off on the empty reel. than i use a marker to mark off where the braid tops off on the side of the spool. remove the braid using another reel. Now, i have a pretty good idea how much mono backing is needed to get pretty close to within 1/8 braid topping. As for that electric tape idea, I do not think much any inshore fishimng is in demand for over 150 yds of braid.The other thought is not sure if under long term during hot summer heat exposure say in a hot cap or warm trunk of a car if the tape sticky glue might eventually gravitate over the braid? probably not, but I personally prefer the cost savings of mono backing and using 150yds of any braid for inshore.
 

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Leprechaun wrote:
Not all "super" braids are of the same uniform diameter, pound test for test. I have found that a 125 - 150yd spool of 30lb Spiderwire Stealth, Tuffline XP, or Stren Superbraid will completely fill a 5xxx-size Abu. (Try the yellow Stren, really good stuff, as is the Tuffline.)

No need to put mono under the braid, if you use three or four turns of black plastic electrical tape instead. Then whatever knot you normally use to connect your line to the spool hub will suffice.

No clue if its any cheaper to have a B&T do this job. I've never done it that way.

best, Lep lep i will try your electric tape method on the small spools. I think it is a great idea instead of mono backing if say 125 or 150 yds. fills the spool. Otherwise, mono backing for those bigger capacity spools or if going smaller dia. lines. stealth sells 150 yds spools and fireline sells 125yd filler spools. Most should agree 125 to 150 yds is more than enough for most inshore fishing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was able to burn up the remainder of a West Marine gift card online by buying 2 spools of 20lb spiderwire stealth.

In addition, spiderwire has a $10 rebate on two spool purchases.

I think I am going to use the electrical tape trick and see how that works. I prefer to keep it simple, and with no knots this system is simple.
 

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gailwins wrote:
I was able to burn up the remainder of a West Marine gift card online by buying 2 spools of 20lb spiderwire stealth.

In addition, spiderwire has a $10 rebate on two spool purchases.

I think I am going to use the electrical tape trick and see how that works. I prefer to keep it simple, and with no knots this system is simple.

i think you made the right choice, i bought me a 150yd spool for my 08 freshwater season. will load a stradic 2000 with it.. For many years I only used 6 to 10 lb. fireline barreled to leader florocarbs/ monos for spin casting spoons and baitcast trolling for deep water trout. I think the stealth is worth testing and will be comparing it this year against the fireline. learned a great braid knot on youtube for all braids..
 

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gailwins wrote:
I was able to burn up the remainder of a West Marine gift card online by buying 2 spools of 20lb spiderwire stealth.

In addition, spiderwire has a $10 rebate on two spool purchases.

I think I am going to use the electrical tape trick and see how that works. I prefer to keep it simple, and with no knots this system is simple.

gail, i like using my 6500 abu for fluking off small boats. I have used it on headboats a few times but much prefer my 7000 abu bigwater. Just has more cranking power especially for strong tides,using heavy weight and cranking in that possible doormat from high on deck drifting PB boat. All around,the 7000 better workhorse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
TW,

I will primarily use these setups inside the GSB where the deeper holes are 25-30 ft, but most fishing is done in the 10 ft range.

I am also going to try them on weakfish over by Ocean Beach with bucktails this year and see how I do.

I do not do much party boat fishing and I use my Penns for when I am outside althoug I will give these a shot this year.

Thanks for the info.





This post edited by gailwins 09:55 AM 01/30/2008
 

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I use mine for bass - casting plugs and also for chumming, no issues yet. I do upgrade the drags in mine and use a power handle, but other than those two issues, those reels are good to go.

Now I wouldn't think to drift live bunker offshore of Long Beach with mine, but for average sized bass, they work great.

Here are a few of my 5xxx-sized babies (and one gratuitous pic of one of most favoritest of Penn old-timers):
 

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Some of the gold-colored "Big Game" series reels from a few years back were made in the Far East, not China, Malaysia I think.

Most Abu reels are still made in Sweden, but to be sure, just flip 'em over and see what the little sticker under the reel stand says.

This whole "Far East reels are bad" thing is way overblown, imo. It all depends on how much quality the reel's "builder" is willing to pay for.

BTW, are you aware for example that many of Shimano's really nice reels are made in Malaysia? How about the Tekota series? Those are Malaysian-built, but I still have yet to hear word one bad about those reels.

Some of the newest and most deadly-accurate CNC-driven machinery on Earth is currently installed all over the Far East, with more new equipment going in there every day. That very latest equipment can easily machine down to 0.00005" - that's Fifty-ONE MILLIONTHS of an inch!!! And some machinery can do better than even that near-infinitesimal number.

But like in anything else, if you want to build to a price, you will be compromising quality - regardless of what a plant is capable of producing, if you pay with bananas, you will get monkey work.

Pay for the good stuff and the Chinese, Malaysian, Singaporean and Thai contract manufacturers will gladly comply and build a world-class product.

Chintz out and cut the price to the bone - and you will get - well you know what you'll get, right?

Lep

This post edited by Leprechaun 10:35 PM 04/16/2008
 
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