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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is the best bottom paint to use on a boat that has never been painted before. Will spend much of its time in a slip but will also make some trips on it's bunk trailer??? Ablative? Hard?
Afraid ablative will rub off when loading on trailer..Also heard hard paints are a pain because of annual build up...Need some good advise...
 

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Being that your boat is unpainted you are in a good position to set yourself up for many years of maintenance free boating. I've been into diffrent size and types for years and have tried numberous different products. The best I've used by far, and only one at I use at this point is the Interlux Micron CSC. It cost more for a reason. I put it on my 1992 cuddy when it was a year old and have yet to re-paint it to date. All I do is re-touch worn spots each year, maybe a qt if that and hit the bottom lightly with a power washer a couple of days before launching to re-activate the paint. My boat is in saltwater from early April to late Novebmer every year and knock on wood, no problems. Interlux makes an etching primer for new unpaited hulls which also makes it a breeze. Just mask off the bottom, apply the etching primer and paint. If you want to get real fancy lay down your first coat of a different color from your next. This will make it easier to see where the paint is wearing most for touch ups the following season.

I purchased a 30' Doral last year which was already painted with Micron in 1990, it looked like it was painted that year. I added another fresh coat just for my own peace of mind. It sat on a mooring from June to November with some use, nothing major. When I hauled it at the end of the season it looked as fresh as the day it went on, no growth, no wear, not a barnacle to be found. I'm convinced that the money that you spend up front will cost you a lot less over the years in paint, time and hull performance. The more you put on the slower your boat will become with every application. Don't worry about the bunk trailer I have the same for my 20' cuddy and don't have a problem. The carpet on the bunks will be wet when sliding on and off. Good luck!
 

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Blitzin, I agree with SammyFish, the Interlux Micron paint is about the best I've found. Tip, put on 2 coats, use 1 color for your 1st. coat, and then another color for your 2nd. coat. Next year touch up only where you see the 1st. coat color.

MakoMatt
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sammy and MakoMatt, I really appreicate the advice..So I was told the 1 year ablative stuff is the best because it wears off and you wont get the years of build up to slow the boat down..But if this Micron lasts as long as Sammy is saying than it's a no brainer.. I have a
2000' model Mako 191..That I keep meticulous..Have always trailerd and washed with soap and brushes after every use...Part of me just wants to pull the boat out of the slip every week and clean it so as not to use bottom paint, but I know that will get old quick..I think I will put a coat of that epoxy primer on then maybe a coat of red and then the last coat black..Does the red coat have to be micron as well or can it be a cheaper paint...How many gallons will I need for my 20 footer???
 

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Blitzin, use the same Interlux Micron paint in 2 different colors, don't mix paint type/brands. If you want to save some money, shop around, a lot of the bigger marine supply houses have it on sale around this time of year.

MakoMatt
 

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Blitzin, the etching primer takes the place of having to have to sand at all. If you chose to sand then the primer is not needed. Personally if I were starting from scratch with a new hull I think I'd sand this time rather than the etching primer. The Doral I bought was sanded and it's a more of an even finish. ****Defintely do not mix paints****. Some paints, even from the same manufactures have diffrent chemical properties which can cause your gel coat to blister. Trust me on this one, don't try to go cheap on this part of boating, it will cost you in the long run. Just a trick to pass along that some people I know have done. If you're in an area with a higher than normal build up of barnacles/zebra muscles put a small jar of powdered Cayan pepper in the paint. It keeps them off for good. You just have to remeber that when and if you have to sand some spots to wear a mask or it will do you in also.
 

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carolina coat

i use "micron msc" on the sides where the sun will hit and cause growth.and on the running-planning surface i use "vc offshore" for a smooth racing boat surface
works great
you'll definitly need to sand the hull or it wont stick go to the interlux website for all the info you need
tip for the trailer ....use bar soap to lube up the carpet on the bunks to prevent chipping and make the boat slide eisier on and off

(This post edited by thefishingfreak on 03/08/2003)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Masking

Alright Guys, You have all given me great advice and I really appreciate it very much.. Last thing...My boat has a water line that goes from stern to bow and curves up sharpley at the bow right up to the eye for the tow hook..This is obviously not a true water line...Any suggestions on how I should tape the hull? How to find the true water line.. I guess I could put it in the water for a few days and mark the line when I pull it out..Is that typically how it's done, or should I follow that line all the way up to the tow hook eye?? What do you think?
 

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Bottom paint

Blitzin,If the bottom has never been
painted, its important that the hull is clean. free of dirt ,grease, waxes,
in other words **** and span clean BEFORE you put anything on it.
This is how I did my boat.
First I would suggest cleaning the bottom with interlux fiberglass solvent wash. then 1 coat grey primer.
then 1 coat Petit Trinidad[about same price as interlux micron].thats it.
Each subsequent season Ill put 1 new coat only, Which I thin By half With paint thinner,cuts down on buildup and alot cheaper .works great.
My boats in the water from early may to end of november and when pulled
for the season the bottom is as smooth as babys bottom.
as far as the water line goes your idea sounds pretty good ,put it in the water mark where the water line is and I would tape it off about an inch above the water line and about 6 inches above at the Bow.
 

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Blitzin, that water line you are talking about, it sounds like the boot stripe, does your boat have a boot line? If so, skip a space from the boot line to where your bottom paint starts. You can use the masking tape to set the size of space, i.e, 1/2", 3/4", 1", etc. Use only FINE LINE tape, ask for that, most of the marine stores carry it. The paint will bleed a little under the regular blue masking tape they sell and you wont get as clean an edge.

If you don't have have a boot line, and the boat is new, you may want to consider having the dealer do the work, or at least have him do boot line for you. If it is not new I would suggest speaking with a dealer who sells that model if they still make it, or contact the manufacturer. Being it's a 20' you could also put it in the water no big deal, and take some measurements from the rub rail down. I would do this every 2' or so, then just connect the dots.

Notice the nice clean straight evenly seperated lines of the boot and bottom paint pictured below.

MakoMatt

(This post edited by MakoMatt on 03/09/2003)
 

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Whoops, LOL, the photo does not show a clean even distance between the two, somehow the photo lost some clarity when I posted it. In real life, the distance between the boot and the bottom paint is an even constant distance, they run perfectly parallel to one another.

MakoMatt
 

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clear bottom paint

has anybody out ther tryed clear bottom paint.i just bought a new boat the color is blue with a white bottom.good or bad,saw it in boaters world i think its made by dolphinight any help would be great,cost is in the ballpark 300.00 a gal. thanks
 

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Leto

Are you sure that is bottom paint? There are new products on the market that are geared to "go-fast" boat owners.

They are clear...but still require that the boat is pulled out of the water. What they do is put a film on the bottom of the boat that actually repells water. In other words it causes less drag on their hulls as they push through the water.

Just something you want to find out b/f you purchase something like that and find out it's not what you want. At the price you mentioned it sounds to me that people who own "go-fast" boats and burn the amount of fuel that they do can afford something like that.

(This post edited by somoan on 03/09/2003)
 

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Petit SR is magic- even a whale cant grab onto your hull. My boat is in 9 months out of the year and not a sign of any sort of growth. Yes its ablative so maybe not the best choice for part time trailor jockeys. I have turned several people on to SR and they agree, for this type of application simply number 1 on the market.
Don Devocean
Cost $144 a gallon
 

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If you have a tounge jack on the trailer raise it as high as it goes and place blocking under it at the center line, use cinder blocks with wood on top. If not use a floor jack under the tounge. Next lower the tounge jack until the front of the boat is resting on the blocking. Next take a floor jack and place it under the main beam of the trailer in the rear, be careful to place it on or as close as possible to the center line. Raise the rear of the boat slowwwwwwly. It helps to have a couple of buddies with you just in case to keep it steady from side to side. Once you've raised it a bit block off the rear in two area, starboard and port. Drop the jack and trailer, which should leave you enough room to paint the bottom. Once you're done reverse the process and paint the three spots where the blocking was. It sound like a lot of work but for what they'll want to bottom paint it, it's well worth it.
 
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