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This year is the first year I`m doing my own boat bottom painting.I have the paint already but need to know how I should prepare the bottom before painting.As far as sanding is concerned,can I use an orbital sander/and or regular sandpaper.What grit should I use?This is the first year an ablative paint is being used. Should the bottom be primed after sanding?Any help is appreciated.Thanks.
 

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BLUEFISH9 wrote:
Ditto what MakoMike said. If it has years of hard epoxy type bottom paint accumulated...I would look at having it media blasted.

Blasted is the way to go.....or even better is soda blasting if you can find someone around you that does it.


I took my hull down to the bare fiberglass a few years back, and used a paint scraped...........amazingly the old paint came right off without too much effort and there was no damage to the hull from the scraper.
 

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Paint Scraper?

Can anyone tell me what type of scraper they would recommend for removing bottom paint?

I want to get rid of the high spots. I am still going to paint it with the same hard paint that is on there, so I am really just looking to get the bottom as smooth as is reasonable.

I am not ready to drop $700 to have the bottom blasted yet.

Thanks.
 

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If you putting an ablative over the old "hard" paint all you NEED to do is give it a light sanding with 120 grit by hand or 80 grit when machine sanded. You can use a orbital DA (machine) but all you need to do is "rough up" the surface of the paint for better ablative adhesion.....rought sanding is not needed.

If you plan to strip the hull, you can use a 5 in 1 painters tool and useing the beveled edge to knock the paint chips off. After you scrape as much of the paint off as you can, sand with a DA at 80 grit and paint.

If you taking all the paint off, I would do my first coat with a different color conventional "hard" paint from the final ablatvie coat you end up with. For instance if you intend to paint the blue bottom, first paint it with black or red conventional paint, then topcoat with ablative. This is done so next year if your using a multi-season ablative all you need to do is "touch up" the areas which you see the original color showing through.

From what I hear (and will know from personal experience next season) is the Petit Hydrocoat works VERY well, plus its relatively affordable at about $ 120 a gallon.

This post edited by GradySailfish 06:43 PM 01/09/2008
 

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GradySailfish wrote:
If you putting an ablative over the old "hard" paint all you NEED to do is give it a light sanding with 120 grit by hand or 80 grait when machine sanded. You can use a orbital DA (machine) but all you need to do is "rough up" the surface of the paint for better ablative adhesion.

If you plan to strip the hull, you can use a 5 in 1 painters tool and useing the beveled edge to knock the paint chips off. After you scrape as much of the paint off as you can, sanding with a DA at 80 grit and paint.

If you taking all the paint off, I would do my first boat with a different color conventional "hard" paint from the final ablatvie coat you end up with. For instance if you intend to paint the blue bottom, first paint it with black or red conventional paint, then topcoat with ablative. This is done so next year if your using a multi-season ablative all you need to do is "touch up" the areas which you see the original color showing through.

From what I hear (and will know from personal experience next season) is the Petit Hydrocoat works VERY well, plus its relatively affordable at about $ 120 a gallon.

This is great stuff...... and exactly what I have done with my boats Micron CFC extra!
First red than Black, Light pressure wash at start of season and a quick roll over the thin spots!
 

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paint...

You can switch from epoxy to ablative no problem.

If you were going to switch to hard vinyl with teflon, then you would have to completely strip.

Other than paint type compatibility, the only other reason you would want to strip is if you have moon craters from overbuildup and chipping from powerwashers. This severely hurts your fuel economy.

I have stripped 2 boats with Interlux Stripper. 1 job, I was sorry, the other job was cake. The key to this job is doing it in the warm sun. It makes a huge difference.

If you do strip, may as well slap on some barrier coat (serves as a great primer) and make the switch to VC Offshore Vinyl paint. So thin it doesn't build up, minimum friction for the best speed and best fuel numbers. A gallon of this stuff is expensive but I only paint every 3rd year. If you do the math, it is the cheapest paint to use and comes back to you at the fuel dock too. Most people are probably more comfortable painting every other year but the days of painting every single year are gone. I think that 'every year thing' came from marinas, slap it on and keep the money flowing, make it build up and crater it with the powerwasher and then bring in more cash to strip it off and start the process all over again.

I like the 2 color approach for ablative others are talking about here. My first boat I switched to blue ablative over red epoxy.
 

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gailwins, below are the type paint scrappers you should use. They are a "pull to you" type scrapper.
gailwins wrote:
I am not ready to drop $700 to have the bottom blasted yet.
When I did mine I got a couple Mexician's from the 7-11. They need close supervision but they had my 26' finished in about half a day. Since I was paying them for the day I then put them to work on the wax-on/wax-off thing. Cost was less then $200 for the both of them and that included getting them lunch too.

Just a couple of things,....... some guys tend to over-pay them, and I would ask that you don't because we don't want to spoil them and then they would be asking for more money all the time. And you might want to consider doing this soon as there is much talk on the news about deporting them all.

MakoMatt
 

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MakoMatt, I know that "overpay" comment was directed at me. You scolded me twice before when you heard I pay them $ 150.00 a piece per day. lol Thats not for work to my boat, just general construction laborer stuff when I was renovating my house. And you are so totally right about them needing CLOSE supervision, its incredible how they can screw up the simplest things. They are hardworking though.

RODLMAO: "Just dont overpay them"
:);)

Come on MakoMatt, be a sport. Those guys are doing arguably THE WORST job in boat ownership.

Those scrapers are very good, I used those and a 5 in 1 painters tool with the beveled edge. The worse thing about the scaper you describe is the atrocious noise it makes when pulling it sometimes....like nails on a chalkboard.
 

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is any purpose served by applying TWO coats of ablative to a bottom that was previously covered with ablative, and do the remnants of last season's ablative need to be sanded off entirely or just roughed up?

for those of you sanding/scraping your own boat bottom, put a tarp on the ground prior to doing so. there are severe penalties for failing to contain your output. I'm actually thinking of buying one of the sanding machines that has a dust-collection bag.



 

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SORTIE, all you need to do is touch up the parts which are worn away. You do not need to re-paint the entire bottom if you used a multi-season ablative. Which kind of ablative do you have ?

There are two types of ablatives; mutliseason and single season. Both wear off throughout the season, but a multiseason ablative will remain effective as long as there is paint on the bottom. Then all you need to do is "touch up" all the parts which wore through, hence the reason for the different "undercoat."
A single season ablative needs to be completely re-coated.
 

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Super Bottom Paint?

Did anyone here ever try this stuff. Claims to have the highest copper content of any ablative paint. I have been using West Marine CPP with no problems until this year. I had a lot of slime this year and wanted to try another paint. Was considering Micron but this stuff sounds real good also. Any thoughts?

http://www.supershipbottom.com/
 

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if the cheap marina paint was used last year, can i just throw 1 coat of the micron multi season stuff on this year. what do you guys use on your shafts and props?

makomatt, does sears or home depot have that stanley pull to you scraper?
 

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Keith, I would think Sears sells them, but I know Home Depot does, that's where I got mine.

They are not really called "pull to you" scrappers, but that's the stroke you use to remove the paint, pulling the tool towards you, not pushing it away. When used properly it can remove all the buildup of paint in one stroke. When not used properly it can also gouge the hull so be careful. Get some extra blades or learn to sharpen them as it's important.

MakoMatt
 

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You don't need a super high content of coprous oxide, its actually better to have a moderate amount of CuO thats slowly release through the season, as opposed to a non-ablative high content CuO paint.

KingKeith, you can put the Micron over the old stuff, but you need to address what condition the underlying paint is in. If its bad, the strip it down or sand it as smooth as possible, then coat it with a ablative a different color from what was on there beneath.

Also you don't need to use Micron CSC, its very expensive at $ 200 per gallong. I'm not saying its not worth it, but you can get a well performing multiseason ablative for less money. For examer the Petit Hydrocoat is a great paint and retails for about $ 130.
 
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