I keep blowing my port side red Perko running light. I have checked the voltage (its good)and cleaned the contacts. I think its heat related because I am using the correct wattage bulb and it still gets very warm. Anyone have a similar problem?
Blown running light bulbs
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wiring..
Corrosion traveling up the wire. Increases resistance. Increases heat.
Use the old Wire as a 'snake' to pull a new wire, 14 gauge duplex multistrand tinned cable. Use marine grade heat shrink crimping lugs and terminals with the glue inside them, they are practically 'permanent'. Also use redundant grounding practices, never relying on a single ground as a ground. Redundant grounds would allow you to cut one of them and still not have electrical grounding problems. Grounding is very important, as much as preventing your wiring from corroding and traveling and turning into scrap by sealing all exposed connections with liquid electrical tape.
Do these things and you are done for at least 15 years, probably longer, for this problem. Continue with the rest of the boat and electrical problems will be a thing of the past.
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Corrosion traveling up the wire. Increases resistance. Increases heat.
Use the old Wire as a 'snake' to pull a new wire, 14 gauge duplex multistrand tinned cable. Use marine grade heat shrink crimping lugs and terminals with the glue inside them, they are practically 'permanent'. Also use redundant grounding practices, never relying on a single ground as a ground. Redundant grounds would allow you to cut one of them and still not have electrical grounding problems. Grounding is very important, as much as preventing your wiring from corroding and traveling and turning into scrap by sealing all exposed connections with liquid electrical tape.
Do these things and you are done for at least 15 years, probably longer, for this problem. Continue with the rest of the boat and electrical problems will be a thing of the past.
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5,674 Posts
I agree with Fishbust. Fix it once and fix it right.
On another note, sometimes running lights will pop when they take on water. If you take a hot bulb and dowst it with cold water it will blow. This is more apt to happen when the running lights are mounted on the bow, where they are closer to the spray, and less likely to happen when they are mounted high on the sides of the boat.
It would be nice to see manufactures making double insulated running light fixtures like some trailer lights. (a sealed bulb within the fixture)
This post edited by Lattitudechange 08:35 AM 07/19/2008
On another note, sometimes running lights will pop when they take on water. If you take a hot bulb and dowst it with cold water it will blow. This is more apt to happen when the running lights are mounted on the bow, where they are closer to the spray, and less likely to happen when they are mounted high on the sides of the boat.
It would be nice to see manufactures making double insulated running light fixtures like some trailer lights. (a sealed bulb within the fixture)
This post edited by Lattitudechange 08:35 AM 07/19/2008
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Lattitudechange wrote:
It would be nice to see manufactures making double insulated running light fixtures like some trailer lights. (a sealed bulb within the fixture)
The newer LED lights do just that. Less draw, less heat, up to 100,000 hours life, brighter light and much better visibility from the distance. A little bit more expensive, but a wise investment!
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This post edited by Mad Mahi 10:31 AM 07/19/2008
It would be nice to see manufactures making double insulated running light fixtures like some trailer lights. (a sealed bulb within the fixture)
The newer LED lights do just that. Less draw, less heat, up to 100,000 hours life, brighter light and much better visibility from the distance. A little bit more expensive, but a wise investment!
This post edited by Mad Mahi 10:31 AM 07/19/2008
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You can replace bulbs of existing fixtures with LED's from
http://www.superbrightleds.com/
I did this on my last boat and they work great, cheaper than the whole fixture.
This post edited by Dorymate2530 10:07 AM 07/20/2008
http://www.superbrightleds.com/
I did this on my last boat and they work great, cheaper than the whole fixture.
This post edited by Dorymate2530 10:07 AM 07/20/2008
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2,010 Posts
Dorymate2530 wrote:
You can replace bulbs of existing fixtures with LED's from
http://www.superbrightleds.com/
I did this on my last boat and they work great, cheaper than the whole fixture.
That is good if you want to upgrade your present lights, but will not help the corrosion problem as posted.
You would still be plugging the newer LED type bulb into the existing socket which is the cause of most problems. The fixtures are watertight enclosures, so your only 'work' is to make sure that the wiring leading to the fixture is good.
Anyone that is considering either of these upgrades needs to remember to keep the fuse in line or add one if there is none. Although the newer LEDs work on much less draw and run cooler, a short is still a short.
It may even be wiser to drop the amp rating down if replacing with the LEDs as to have them blow sooner!
![]()
You can replace bulbs of existing fixtures with LED's from
http://www.superbrightleds.com/
I did this on my last boat and they work great, cheaper than the whole fixture.
That is good if you want to upgrade your present lights, but will not help the corrosion problem as posted.
You would still be plugging the newer LED type bulb into the existing socket which is the cause of most problems. The fixtures are watertight enclosures, so your only 'work' is to make sure that the wiring leading to the fixture is good.
Anyone that is considering either of these upgrades needs to remember to keep the fuse in line or add one if there is none. Although the newer LEDs work on much less draw and run cooler, a short is still a short.
It may even be wiser to drop the amp rating down if replacing with the LEDs as to have them blow sooner!
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