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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was wondering if anyone out there can help me out with a project I will do in the spring before launch. I would like to add an anchor roller / mount to my 19' center console. The anchor is a 14lb. Delta plow with 10' of chain. Do most of my fishing solo and feel the roller will aid in retrieval. Questions:

1- what kind of sealant / caulk goes between the roller and the deck
or is it mounted directly to deck w/o sealant?

2- what kind of device do I need to keep the anchor snug on the mount
and to prevent accidental deployment while underway? Is this
mounted inline with the roller / mount?

I do not have a dedicated anchor locker and the chain / rode will come off the roller into a large anchor basket bungeed down.

Thanks in advance for any replies.......Ed
 

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I'm looking to do the same this spring.
1) Drill holes a bit larger and fill it with two part epoxy. Then drill the right size hole in the dried epoxy. Use 5200 when putting it together.

2) I installed one of these before,

the thing was, you need to apply quite a bit of pressure on it to open and close, but it did a great job of keeping tension on the anchor and keeping it from bouncing, even in the roughest stuff...at my dock side. :rolleyes:
Between that and the anchor I added one of these as a back up...
Between drops I only used the top one.
I will probably do the same this time around.
 

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How much deck space do you have at the bow. I ask because you mentioned that you want to use the Delta anchor. The Delta anchor requires a larger anchor roller. It's longer and has a larger diameter ring on top. Look at the Windline URM-4. It's a medium sized roller for small boats. The only issue is that it's 19" long. Do you have that much space? The second issue is, if your going to use a chain tensioner, it needs to be placed far enough back to catch the chain. That requires even more space. You may have to mount the anchor roller well forward of the bow to accommodate the length and allow a place for the tentioner. You can also use a bow cleat to tie off the anchor.

When you install the roller and tentioner, use through bolts with flat washers and lock nuts. Don't just screw it into the deck. Seal around the holes with Lifecaulk or 5200. You should also back both accessories with plywood under the deck. Cut yourself a small piece of 3/4" plywood. The bolts should go through your accessory, the deck, and the plywood. After everything it tightened up finish off the bolts with either a cap screw or a rubber end cap. Those are so you don't tear up your hands or chafe anything you might store in that access compartment.
 

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Use trhe lifecaulk or any silicone sealer like boatcaulk. You're just trying to keep the water out, its not a structural bond that you need there, and the silcone will allow you replace the whole shebang is and when the time comes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys for the great advice. Craig, I will look into that model more closely. I found one made by Kingston Anchor specificaly for the Delta but I will compare the sizing of both. So to be clear:

1- anchor roller / mount

2- behind the mount, a cleat / mooring bit (directly behind roller)

3- behind cleat an anchor tensioner. App. how much distance between cleat and tensioner?

Thanks again.........Ed
 

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bigfished wrote:
3- behind cleat an anchor tensioner. App. how much distance between cleat and tensioner?


Ed,
The cleat is to tie off your rode when your at anchor. The tensioner it to secure the anchor, via one chain link while in transit. They are two separate accessories, that perform two separate functions. You can offset the tensioner to one side so it clears the bow cleat.

When your ready to do this give me a buzz. I'll stop by. You'll spend more time establishing the right placement and checking for clearance, than securing it.
 

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when you do this make sure that the tensioner that holds the anchor in place when running is foolproof and idiot proof. I know a charter captain whose boat sank, because the anchor came loose while he was running.

This post edited by MakoMike 03:20 PM 02/09/2008
 

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Why would you want to move the roller after it's been mounted, unless you mounted it the wrong way? :rolleyes:
5200 and you don't have to worry about caulk coming loose from the SS, and the vibrations won't break the seal.
If you do need to remove it, all you have to do stick a piece of hard shim between the roller and the deck, and hammer it in slowly. The pressure from the shim lifting the roller will take it right off.
 

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DarthBaiter wrote:
Why would you want to move the roller after it's been mounted, unless you mounted it the wrong way? :rolleyes:


Maybe because the bearing has worn out and you can't find a replacement? So you just want to put an whole new assembly on.
 

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MakoMike wrote:
DarthBaiter wrote:
Why would you want to move the roller after it's been mounted, unless you mounted it the wrong way? :rolleyes:


Maybe because the bearing has worn out and you can't find a replacement? So you just want to put an whole new assembly on.


Or it somehow gets bent or damaged and needs to be replaced. Better to not have to remove the entire bow!
 

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I did this same project on my 19' CC a couple seasons ago, I too fish alone alot, best thing I ever did to my boat. definatlty take some extra time checking the clearance, my boat had a problem with the anchor hiting the bow in the stow away position. I ended up making a pulpit and attachng a roller to that. It worked out well that way because it sticks out far enough to prevent the anchor from coming under the boat and hitting the hull in fast current. Anyway, point is have a friend give you a hand and check the clearance real carefully.

Through bolting with plywood under the glass is a must to difuse the pressure on the glass. You don't realize how mush force is exerted when you get your anchor stuck in the mud or wreck. You get the line close to vertical, then you pull in the slack and wrap around the kleet when the boat lays into the trough of a swell and as the boat rises with the seas..... well I don't know how many pounds it is, but it's alot!

As for securing the anchor, I spliced a 3' length of rope to the D ring that attaches the chain to the anchor and just tie the line off to the kleet. Its fast, very easy, I can do it in any gloves, and it has never come loose on me.

Good Luck
 

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Holy cow...what thw heck are you doinfg to bend the rollers...lol. Stoip hitting them bouys on the way out and you wouldn't have to replace the rollers so often. ;)

ROFL...

I did have to re seal it last year, even though I used lock nuts and 5200, so I really don't esee what the big deal is about 5200, it isn't the bond all glue, it doesn't hold onto SS as well as it does to fiberglass, but it does come off. :rolleyes: ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks everyone for the input and suggestions. I appreciate them all and I'm sure it will help make the project easier.

6to8ftseas did you make the pulpit out of starboard, teak, fiberglass, or some other material?
 

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Sorry for the late post, I forgot about this thread.

I happend to have a big ars piece of oak left over from a job. It was no longer in wood work condition because some racoons got into the garage and crapped on it. since I wouldn't dare use it in a clients house I desided to use it for the pulpit. It's a generous 5/4 (maybe even 1 1/2") by 12. My intention was to use the oak and see how I like the design and positioning of it for at least a season worth of trials, then replace it with some teak. It's still there with no problems, there's a good chance its gonna get an occasional coat of varnish and become its permanent home. I'll try to snap some picks when I'm by the boat next time.
 

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Unless you've got a windlass I'd skip the anchor davit; unless you've got a windlass setup they only make things more complicated and more difficult. They do not help for hauling anchor and just add another thing that can fail while you are underway - they are pointless other than that they look nice.

Invest in a fish tote or other container to store the anchor & line in.. or maybe a ball and ring setup for hauling.

Jon
 
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