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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been Fishing the Shinne**** area for a couple years now and have had problems at times getting the anchor to set. This happens for the most part in the Mussel Bed areas around the bridge or in the flats just north of the inlet...???

I've got a Danforth Fluke style that is rated well in excess of my needs and I've used plenty of Scope. Does anyone have any recommendations of a different style anchor or method that may work better....??
 

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anchor set-up

..For that set-up you should have 1/2 inch line to a 13lb anchor with about 10 - 12 ft of chain...Call me crazy but I've never had a problem Anchoring in and around shinne**** with a similar set-up..I have more chain and a heavier anchor for the 26' Fortier and a slightly smaller Anchor with 10ft of chain on the 19' Seaway...

The chain length is always important...depending on the size of the chain (Lets say 5/16) it weighs a pound per ft. Adding that lenght of chain as a setting point for the anchor to drag the bottom is needed when anchoring in a bay such as Shinne****.. the bottom is Sand/mud & eel grass all wrapped up into one..

Just trying to help!!!

Capt. Brad
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Chain??? Duh!!!

Thank you Capt. Brad,

I'm going to upgrade the anchor to a little larger than I've got. I didn't realize the length of chain was so important.
I'll stop and get a longer and heavier chain also. The bottom around Shinne**** is usually not a problem only when the Mussel beds and eel grass are heavy do I have trouble hooking up. Nothing more fun than hooking up west of the bridge only to have the anchor not grab during a fast moving outgoing tide.
LOL

See you out there and Thank you again, Jack
 

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Nothing as fun as pulling an anchor in some slop and trying not to have 12' of chain not bang the crap out of your gelcoat. My fishing budd keeps telling me I need more chain but I hate having that much when I'm pulling it in to the boat.
 

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Sea Spike

Check out Sea Spike Marine in Pt Jeff Station. They used to manufacture a danforth style anchor but with smaller flukes set a couple of inches apart and a much heavier cross bar. It was designed to dig into hard bottom like eel grass and mussel beds common on the south shore. They had a small supply in a trailer behind their store. I've been useing them for years with about 5 ft. of chain and have had no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Guys

Thank you Capt. Brad,

Been out there a couple times now with the new set up. 10ft. of 5/16 Chain and it hooks up great. Not a bit of draggin now. Dropped it over for the first time and couldn't believe how quickly it hooked up. Great advice.

Thanks again, Jack
 

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Glad to hear everything is working. You say that you drop it off the side, I assume you don't have a windlass to hoist it. When I put out an anchor I try to toss it about three feet or so in front of the bow with the boat idling in reverse (unless the current is doing the reverse for me.) This way I know the anchor will at least head to the bottom parallel and will hopefully lay flat. I find that if I just ease it over the side straight down, the chain will bind or the anchor will flip around before catching. I'm a nut and will actually throw the anchor as far as I can. I hold the chain in one hand and the base of the anchor in the other and give it the "one two three HEAVE!" Never fails.
 

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Chain...

I have exactly one foot of chain between my windlass and anchor.

I don't know why people use so much chain to wrestle with and have banging around, unless your windlass accepts chain.

Pick your anchor from a sizing chart, then choose the next size up and use just enough chain so you don't have to go to the bow and screw around. Just hit the button on the windlass. Even letting out minimum rode (as soon as the anchor hits bottom), it will lock you in so well, you will have to idle to the other side of it to free it from the mud.
 

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Fishbust wrote:
I have exactly one foot of chain between my windlass and anchor.

I don't know why people use so much chain to wrestle with and have banging around, unless your windlass accepts chain.

Pick your anchor from a sizing chart, then choose the next size up and use just enough chain so you don't have to go to the bow and screw around. Just hit the button on the windlass. Even letting out minimum rode (as soon as the anchor hits bottom), it will lock you in so well, you will have to idle to the other side of it to free it from the mud.

That is extremely bad advice. All anchors need chain to hold properly in heavy conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Throwing

Sorry for being unclesr. My boat does not have a windlass. It's only a 23ft. Center Console. I alwasys give the anchor a good toss off the bow after setting up in whichever direction the tide/current is running. It sets well and the chain isn't too much of a problem getting back onboard, just have to be a little careful when pulling it up not to bang the Gelcoat or let it slam onto the deck.

Capt. Brad definitely got it right though. That thing hooks up easy now with no problems draggin bottom anymore.
 

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MakoMike wrote:
Fishbust wrote:
I have exactly one foot of chain between my windlass and anchor.

I don't know why people use so much chain to wrestle with and have banging around, unless your windlass accepts chain.

Pick your anchor from a sizing chart, then choose the next size up and use just enough chain so you don't have to go to the bow and screw around. Just hit the button on the windlass. Even letting out minimum rode (as soon as the anchor hits bottom), it will lock you in so well, you will have to idle to the other side of it to free it from the mud.

That is extremely bad advice. All anchors need chain to hold properly in heavy conditions.



I second that, If you don't mind dealing with it chain will only help you. Now If you are just anchoring for lunch no big deal but if you a sleeping "on the Hook" chain gives a little piece of mind.
 
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