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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Capt. Neil,

I think I understand action types; fast, moderate, etc. This has to do with where the rod flexes, at least initially, during the cast, yes? What type of action would be best in a surf rod for use with plugs and bucktails? For the most part, I'll be targeting stripers on the south shore beaches and jetties. Lures will be 1-3 oz or so.

Another question, what are the advantages, if any, of a 1 piece rod over a 2 piece surf rod? Any difference in casting distance?

Last question (for at least 10 minutes I promise :^}) any recomendation in a Lamiglas. I have a 10' Penn now but it's a bit on the heavy side and too flexible for pencils. I'm looking for a lighter 10' or 11' model, maybe longer, and less flexible so I can work a pencil easier.

Thanks,
Waterlocked
 

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Waterlocked,

Along LI Sound most use 8 or 9'rods. On the south side 10 and 11' rods are more prevalent. When throwing light lures I would not hesitate to use a 9' rod on the south shore.

By its nature graphite is STIFF and has a faster action, only the top third flexes. Fiberglas FLEXES along the length of the blank more.

It sounds like you would be better served by a graphite rod. If you will be using synthetic you need a rod with stronger, thicker, walls. Synthetic line has no stretch so every cast is like a shock test to the rod.

Most people that I build 2 piece rods for is due to space limitations in a car or an apartment. 2 piece rods cast beautifully and if you were blind folded I doubt you could tell you were casting a 2 piece rod.

Years ago the 2 piece rods had ferrules that were terrible. You were very aware you were casting a 2 piece rod. They were metal ferrules. Today they a glass ferrules which are incorporated into the blank when the matting is wrapped around the mandrel.

Which casts further??? Good question. I think it is determined by how good the caster is. A 2 peice rod does have its lure weight characteristic changed due to the weight increase in the ferrule area.

Lamiglas has these models in 1-3 oz lure ranges.

TS 96 MHS, 9'6", 2 pc, 1-3, 12-30 # line,

TS 10 MHS, 2 pc, 1-3, 12-30 10'

XS 91 Series, 4 models, 2 spin and 2 conventional, 2 are 2 pc. 1-3, 14-20.

I hope this helps and is understandable. Just got home from fishing Peconic Bay and the wind has wiped me out.

Capt Neil
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Capt Neil,

Thanks for the reply. Since fiberglass rods bend over the entire length wouldn't that provide more power than graphite? Also, if a rod is designed for synthetic line (Powerpro, fireline) does that mean it performs poorly with mono?

IBEW, thanks for the info. I will consider St Croix. I think my best bet is my local B&T so I can handle the various makes and models.

Waterlockd
 

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waterlockd,

The fiberglas flex is good to hold a fish without pulling the hook out of its mouth. Also great for hooking flounders and porgys. It gives. You can also buy fiberglas blanks/rods that are very stiff with good pull/lift power.

A graphite rod is more sensitive and is stiffer. The stiffness in the mid and butt sections of the rod create good pull power.There is more material in those sections.

With the fast action tops of graphite it is not wise to high stick or lift big fish. The rod might break at the flex point. Always fight fish between 3 and 5 o'clock. This way you put the most hurt on a fish. The higher you hold the tip up you lose power as only the top of the rod is involved.

Each of us fishes differently and/or likes a different feel in their equipment. That is what makes things interesting. We can find a fiberglas and a graphite rod that will accomplish the same results but each of us will choose different ones for personal reasons.

I like a fiberglas rod to swing blues over the rail on a party boat. The rod flexes as I swing the fish.

I like graphite, less flex , for bucktailing fluke. I want the lure to move as soon as I move the tip.

Now you combine fiberglas and graphite and you have a Composite Rod. It has more flex than graphite and the sensitivity of graphite. They are almost indestructable even when using synthetic line. I like them for deep water black fishing.

I hope this answers more than it makes more questions.

Capt Neil
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Capt Neil,

Thanks again. I took a look at the TS10MHS and a similar St Croix (ESS100M I think). I liked the feel of the Lam better maybe because I never owned a graphite before (all fiberglass rods) and it has a fiberglass wrapping. Best of both worlds. Not to mention the fact that the Lam was about $100 cheaper than the St Croix! Might be apples and oranges but its my first high end (non-K-Mart/walmart) rod. Got to be a step up. Can't wait to use it. Thanks for the info!

Waterlockd
 

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Hi waterlockd,

The Lamiglas TS 10 MHS is brand new for 2002. It is built on their new TRI WALL TECHNOLOGY blanks. They are very sensitive and strong.

You are looking at the 10' model. I am building the 9'6" version as a demo rod for slinging eels off a jetty.

Lamiglas makes very good blanks/rods are the only manufacturer I know of that spines the rods before building them.

The position of the reel seat is very important for maximum casting distance. When I measure customers for reel seat position I ask them to hold the rod with one hand out stretched and the butt tucked under their arm pit. Where their hand rests is where the reel seat is positioned. This gives the best hand spacing while casting.

If the hands are too close together you lose casting power which shortens distance. If the hands are too far apart you not only lose power you might stab the butt into your stomach.

Enjoy your new purchase.

Capt Neil
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Capt Neil,

Very interesting. Hand spacing/reel position.

Maybe my next purchase will be a custom built. From K-Mart to high end and then custom. Sounds like a natural progression to me.

Thanks again.

Waterlockd
 
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