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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Every time I leave my 704z idle for a couple of months, it stops cranking. It is due to a buildup of corrosion inside the main gear housing(passage between the handle and internal gears). Then I clean it out with solvent and a bore brush, oil and it works fine. I don't dunk this reel or drag it through the sand, I rinse it after each use, plus I shoot the occational drop of oil in the oil port. Also, when I break it down, the rest if the inside housing looks great. Can't figure out why this keeps happening. Anyone else have this problem? Does anyone forgo the oil port and slather this part with grease instead?

Thanks,

Saltyu
 

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A friend of mine had this same problem, I know he had to keep cleaning it. The only thing I can suggest is to clean the passage that the main gear goes through to the handle and grease the **** out of the opening and push it in with the gear. I have been using brake cleaner to clean the reels it breaks the grease down quickly and dries leaving no residue.

keep us updated on your progress

Tony
 

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PROBLEM SOLVED

Hi, I just took out of the garage 1 of my 704z's and it was seized also. Every mid winter the reels get completly broken down and I mean everything. Now, what I have discovered is the reel is in perfect working order less the ball bearing housing that is between the rotor cup and the main reel frame.
What I do is pop it out and soke it with wd40 first. Then I place it in a cup with break fluid totally submerged. I then remove it and spray it down again with wd40 . Before I replace it into the housing I pack the housing with vaseline or grease of your choice. After it is in it's place I cover the entire ball bearing rotor with vaseline again. Zip Zip it is done. I go through this every year, not to worry it's not that hard. If you find the bearing to be to frozen obviuosly it needs to be replaced. Good luck and let us know how ya made out.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Martin
 

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wd-40 and brake fluid (STRIP) all of the grease from the reel.Try stripping all of the grease from the reel and repacking it with teflon grease NOT vasiline.wd-40 and brake fluid only break down grease .that is mostly your problem.Try it let me know good luck.
 

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704 bearing

Hi , maybe I didn't fully explain. After I remove all the grease(vaseline) with wd40 and break fluid (from the bearing) I hot water steam the entire real too removing all the old grease. After this is done I even clean the bearing off(no spray's). After all said and done I repack the bearing with vaseline only. I know vaseline sounds off beat but I've been using it for 20 years and works fine(just my opin)
I usually clean my reels at least once everyother week by breaking it down. Ofcourse they get washed down after every use regardless.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.Martin
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks to all. I used the brake cleaner tip which worked great. Then blew out the excess with my compressor, and then packed in some grease rather than oil. Hopefully it will hold up this time. Tried something else new...I stuffed a wad of bronze wool in the passage and spun it with a power drill, then ran a brake cleaner soaked rag through it. Held it up to the light and now its clean and shiny in there.

-Saltyu
 

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Bearing

The bearing is generic. Measure it and order a new bearing from
Bocabearings.
You want a bearing with the suffix UU which designates a sealed rather than a sheilded bearing. Coat the top and bottom with waterproof grease anyway. this will go along way in keeping the bearing alive.
Tunatoys
 

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Saltyu

The bronze bushings can be replaced with minimal effort, the part number is 2-704 you will need 2 of them or you can leave the inner one off and use a bearing instead which penn did on some 706's in the early 70's it made for a much smoother reel and still works today.

Dave Sr.
 

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Tunatoys wrote:
The bearing is generic. Measure it and order a new bearing from
Bocabearings.
You want a bearing with the suffix UU which designates a sealed rather than a sheilded bearing. Coat the top and bottom with waterproof grease anyway. this will go along way in keeping the bearing alive.
Tunatoys


Thanks Tuna
 

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nprtrodnreel wrote:
Saltyu

The bronze bushings can be replaced with minimal effort, the part number is 2-704 you will need 2 of them or you can leave the inner one off and use a bearing instead which penn did on some 706's in the early 70's it made for a much smoother reel and still works today.

Dave Sr.


Dave, I'm looking at a schematic and I can't find part# 2-704. Where is it located. The 706 has key # 55 (part# 055-320) is this what you are referring to?

thanks
Tony
 

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Tony
I'm going off the top of my head but it's the piece of bronze your main gear not the pinion gear goes thru. The 704 and 706 share the same body they have a bushing on the outside and inside of the body where the handle attaches. If you don't see them they are there just hit them with some 3m cloth red color, if your a Hunter the 9mm or 38cal brush does a decent job of cleaning the innards especially with the solvent.

If I find one of the older books from before 92 I'll scan it into the topic so you can see what I mean.

Dave Sr.
 

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well u brought up a few things. wd40 and vaseline. wd40 is about the same as kerosene with a bit of coloring added. its almost the same as bust rust. its far from the best as a protectant and or a lubricant. and vaseline is far from the best in the cold. several use both and most of them have had problems by doing so. these days i clean my reels with reel saver products and spray them down after each use with them. they do not attract dust, sand or any other contaminant. i also use a liberal amount of grease inside. i have used blue boat grease with no problems. and now use reel savers grease with no problems either. worked wonders on my penn z's, cheap tica's and my beloved supercaster for my weakies. (wd40 will break down your vaseline). also if u don't want to try the new stuff use 3 to 1 for the guts.
 

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Gear oil

I,ve been using 90 wt. gear oil in my 704s and 706s for years with no problems. I've found the heavier grease piles up in the corners an eventually some of the wear points get dry. I fill the houseing about 3/4 full with gear oil and put a thin bead of blue grease around the edges of the side plate to form a seal and it works great no leaks. and smooth as silk. It seems to prevent any water intrusion as well.
 
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