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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A friend owes me some money and offered me his boat, motor and trailer. The boat and trailer look fine. I just have questions about the motor. Does anyone have any experience with this motor? It was winterized by a dealer three years ago and has not be run since. The boat is still shrunk wrapped. What do you think the motor is worth?? What do you think should be done to get it ready to use??

Thanks



This post edited by du410 05:34 PM 02/01/2008
 

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i have a 87 17 aquasport. it had a 87 88hp evinrude. in 2000, i had the boat for a month and the head gasket went and it wasn't worth fixing since i got a good price on a new 90 merc. then again, the motor was 13 y/o. it showed no signs of problems when i bought it. i've heard of others saying it's not a good motor, but those 88hp and 90hp grey evinrudes are still around today. i'd say your package is worth about $5000-$7000. decent bay boat. i'm not much of a mechanic, but it's a 2 stroke. check the filter and in line filter, change the gear oil, plugs and run it and make sure it's getting oil if it has a separate tank. its hard to say what the motor's worth but some guy bought mine not running, no prop and a banged up cover for $200 picked up no questions asked.
 

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Hu:confused:

I've heard a lot about the 88hp ev. They were said to be indestructible, reason being that it is actually a 115hp block bored or stroked to 88hp instead, so I heard. I had one, the boat sank and I still got that thing running. that may be why you got rid of it in such a hurry. But, everything has the potential to blow up I guess.

Sorry du410, don't know that motor. I do have a 19' aquasport. If the 17' is anything like mine, Great boat! get a pair of ear muffs and Start her up, see what she does.

Kingkeith is on the right track for a first start-up, but I'm to cheap to start changing parts and fluids on unknown motors. definitely check the gear oil, at least pull the top plug to check the level and bottom plug briefly to make sure it is not milky. pull the spark plugs to make sure there not fouled. Disconnect the full line and pump the priming bulb into a jar to make sure your getting clean un obstructed fuel flow. most important of all, bring starting fluid! If it does start make sure you get water running through the head, I have found on a few of my motors that if it sat for a while the thermostat can freze up, a tap on the housing usually does the trick.

oh yeah, as kingkeith said (and I would not have thought of) check if it has a 2cycle oil resevoir. Good Look
 

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Trading for payment...

Since this boat is payment for something and since a boat with a motor that runs is worth a lot more than a motor that does not run, let him turn it over to you in a turn key condition. Then you have nothing to worry about.

3 years is a long time. Winterized by Dealer does not mean a lot. Many boat yards have 16 year old kids and helpers working on your boat during busy times, many do not do what they are supposed to do. Many use marvel mystery oil for fogging and that is too thin to remain coated on the cylinders walls, especially for 3 years. You do not know if they completely drained the fuel system or stabilized it or did nothing to the fuel system. What was done and/or not done will make all the difference in the world after 3 long years of sitting, including the onboard fuel tank if it has one. Personally, I would not buy the motor in its present state, it has no dollar value at this time.

On a good note, chances are this motor has very little hours on it. If the motor was properly pickled and maintained, you could be getting a lot for your money.
 

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How good a friend is this guy??If he's a GOOD friend I would stay away from this. Say you take the trade and 2 weeks later the motor takes a dump on you. Not only will your friendship be the same but you'll have to buy another motor. I know I'm being a cynical ba*t#*d but these things happen. Just my 2 cents. Good luck either way!!!
 

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You 2 should get it running and go from there. Or, take the value of the hull/trailer/no motor and use that figure for the debt payment.

If a friend traded me a boat for payment of a debt and it died 2 weeks later I wouldnt care- its the luck of the draw and things always break, if you can agree to that your fine.
 

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Johnshan wrote:
You 2 should get it running and go from there. Or, take the value of the hull/trailer/no motor and use that figure for the debt payment.

If a friend traded me a boat for payment of a debt and it died 2 weeks later I wouldnt care- its the luck of the draw and things always break, if you can agree to that your fine.

Agree,
you need to be in the mind set that your friendship is more impor5ant than boats and $. Even if you get it running that doesn't mean its not going to blow up, its still a boat!
 

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Brenainn wrote:
Please dont use starting fluid to get that 2 stroke going. It doesnt deserve that. 2 strokes need top end lube


hu, good point, good point ;)

any alternative suggestions to kick things off when messing with an unknown or troublesome motor?

This post edited by 6to8ftSeas 10:04 PM 02/05/2008
 

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du410 wrote:
A friend owes me some money and offered me his boat, motor and trailer. The boat and trailer look fine. I just have questions about the motor. Does anyone have any experience with this motor? It was winterized by a dealer three years ago and has not be run since. The boat is still shrunk wrapped. What do you think the motor is worth?? What do you think should be done to get it ready to use??

Thanks



You didn't say what he owed you so there's no way to tell who's getting the better end of the deal. I've done that type of thing with friends and IMHO it's better than having the debt strain the friendship.. once you are "paid" it's over and done with.. I might just offer to try and sell it and pay them the difference minus 10% or something for your troubles - that is if they are a friend..

With 2-stroke outboards if the compression is good they are usually good. It's hard to keep track of how compression varies but basically you should see something over 85 psi and within about 10 psi from the highest to lowest.. a little more is ok if they are spread out but you don't want to see 110, 110, 110, 95.. where as 95, 110, 98, 105 wouldn't bother me so much.

Carbed 2-strokes are also very simple and stand a much better chance of surviving long periods of non-use than a 4-stroke or fuel injected 2-stroke IMHO.. however you are probably into it for carb rebuilds right off the top along with pumping out the fuel tank completely and adding new fuel, flushing the lines, etc..

Because they burn oil they pretty much winterize themselves and anything extra that is done is just good measure; when playing the buy/sell game I saw engines that probably hadn't been run in 10 years which were still in tip-top condition.. Owner assumes they are junk, compression is good and you score it for $300.. bring it home, do the maintenance and it fires right up, back into the classifieds for $3000.

I've actually never seen one that was seized or was a basket-case which I attributed to years of non-use rather the only engines that turned to chit from "non-use" appeared to have been obviously sunk to me or had scored cylinders from the start due to pre-existing problems..

Have seen mice do a number on wires and build nests and things of that nature but nothing that actually wrecked the engine rather just some cleaning and electrical parts.

Jon
 

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6to8ftSeas wrote:
Brenainn wrote:
Please dont use starting fluid to get that 2 stroke going. It doesnt deserve that. 2 strokes need top end lube


hu, good point, good point ;)

any alternative suggestions to kick things off when messing with an unknown or troublesome motor?

Spray some WD40 into the holes to cut any oil that might generate a falsely-high compression test; also spray some oil up the tell-tale fitting and into the lower unit's pickups to try and lubricate the water pump if you are spinning it over "dry" for compression tests.

Aside from that when you go to start it, if it's been sitting for years, DON'T...

First take the carbs off and clean/rebuild them, flush the lines, replace 100% of the fuel with fresh fuel, replace the plugs if they look bad, check the spark, and then you will probably watch it start right up and idle without issue.

If an engine won't fire right up there is something wrong. There's no sense spending time attempting to get it running; you need to step back and resolve the problems that are preventing it from running right. Carbs pretty much always need to be cleaned and rebuilt on used outboards which have been sitting.

Starting an engine up with pre-existing problems is actually a good way to blow the powerhead.

Jon
 

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leakyrivot wrote:
6to8ftSeas wrote:
Brenainn wrote:
Please dont use starting fluid to get that 2 stroke going. It doesnt deserve that. 2 strokes need top end lube


hu, good point, good point ;)

any alternative suggestions to kick things off when messing with an unknown or troublesome motor?

Spray some WD40 into the holes to cut any oil that might generate a falsely-high compression test; also spray some oil up the tell-tale fitting and into the lower unit's pickups to try and lubricate the water pump if you are spinning it over "dry" for compression tests.

Aside from that when you go to start it, if it's been sitting for years, DON'T...

First take the carbs off and clean/rebuild them, flush the lines, replace 100% of the fuel with fresh fuel, replace the plugs if they look bad, check the spark, and then you will probably watch it start right up and idle without issue.

If an engine won't fire right up there is something wrong. There's no sense spending time attempting to get it running; you need to step back and resolve the problems that are preventing it from running right. Carbs pretty much always need to be cleaned and rebuilt on used outboards which have been sitting.

Starting an engine up with pre-existing problems is actually a good way to blow the powerhead.

Jon



Great info!

I can't disagree, I have never purchased a used outboard that did not need rebuilt carbs.

I did forget to mention in my original suggestions to spray some Wd or squirt some marvel in there. but you do make some good points, I guess I just like the comfort of hearing it fire before I start doing repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for all the advice. I was going to do exactly what leaky recommended. The nice thing is the boat does not have a built in gas tank. I remove the tanks and got rid of the gas. The guy I got the boat from left for FL and if I did not take the boat I probably would not have gotten any money. He owed me $2500 and I feel the boat and trailer are worth that alone. The motor looks really good I will keep you posted and try to post pictures.
 
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