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NY, NJ, CT, RI Edition
November 03, 2009
Volume 20 � Number 10
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Nor'east Saltwater Online Magazine powered by:
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Mono vs. Braided Lines by Robert Banfelder
by Bob Banfelder
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By Bob Banfelder
Life is not perfect; it is a series of compromises at best. At worst, it is a world of confusion followed by disappointment because of poor choices we sometimes make. Good choices make our planet a happy place both on and in which to play. Many a time, we come to discover that options offered us are, in effect, simply trade-offs. Hence, we return full circle, settling without truly understanding the nature or quality of concern. Applying this critical thinking to product selection, monofilament versus braided fishing line oftentimes falls into this abysmal, confounding category. To choose randomly, without realizing all the pros and cons involved, is to be shortchanged—both literally and figuratively speaking.
Together, we’ll explore the advantages and disadvantages of monofilament and braided lines. We’ll use Ande mono and PowerPro braid (two superior line choices) in the following examples for comparisons. For openers, braided line offers greater line capacity because of its inherently thinner diameter. For example, PowerPro Spectra 20-pound test braided line has a diameter of .009 as compared to Ande 20-pound test monofilament which has a diameter of .018 (double the braid’s diameter). In this instance, you can fill a spool with twice as much braided line than with mono. That pretty much gives you a clear-cut picture in terms of line capacity.
Of important consideration, too, are pound-test equivalents in relationship to a spool’s maximum line capacity. For instance, the manufacturer’s maximum line capacity specification for Shimano’s Stella FD 3000 spinning reel is 220 yards of 8-pound test monofilament. In moving up the scale and spooling with a heavier 30-pound test braid (the equivalent diameter of 8-pound mono) you have increased test strength by 22 pounds. However, you have not increased line capacity simply because the two lines are of equal diameter, which in this case is .011 inches, filling the spool to its 220 yard capacity.
Be aware that manufacturers’ specifications regarding fishing line diameters do not follow a standard code. Diameters regarding pound-test equivalents may vary. Making it your business to know line diameters, pound-test equivalents between braid and mono, in addition to your reel’s spool capacities, will aid considerably when it’s time to fill your spool(s) properly. This is not difficult; simply read those labels or Google the needed information if not specified.
To begin, we’ll take a peek at some very simple math to help you save time and money by first attaching a specific amount of monofilament line to the spool, followed by filling the spool to capacity with braided line. This will prove simple enough when both lines are of the same diameter. There are formulas, too, when dealing with unequal factors. However, we’ll make matters easy by employing the KISS mode: Keep It Simple System. For the finale, we’ll wisely examine choices when deciding between monofilament and braided lines.
Let’s start by filling my Shimano Stella FD 3000 spinning reel with 70 yards of 8-pound test Ande monofilament line, then topping it off with a new, full spool of 150 yards of PowerPro Spectra 30-pound test braided line in order to fill the spool with precisely 220 yards of the same diameter lines. In this instance, I’m using 30-pound braid in lieu of 20-pound braid because I’m more interested in strength than length as 220 yards is more than sufficient.
“Fine, but how did you arrive at precisely 70 yards of mono to start the operation?” I’m hoping you’re questioning.
Easy. As a small spool of 30-pound test braided PowerPro I’m using comes filled with 150 yards of line, I simply subtracted 150 yards from 220 yards. Therefore, because the two lines are identical in diameter (.011 inches), I know that I have to begin with 70 yards of Ande monofilament and end with the 150 yards of braided PowerPro. I have evaded guesswork, avoided shortchanging myself because I’ve utilized the whole spool of braid, filled the reel’s spool to capacity, and saved time and money in the bargain. You could, of course, use two identical reels, spool the braid on the first reel, fill the remainder with mono, then connect the mono to the second reel and fill the spool to capacity. It all sounds great until you consider the expense of a duplicate reel. You need to consider that cost factor against what a moment of math can save you: time, money and frustration. Then again, you could play around with an identical spool and a line- winding machine.
Another alternative, but rather inane, is to find a partner and an empty football field. Load the reel with braid then add the monofilament to fill the spool to capacity. Your partner can then run the mono (as walking would be rather time-consuming for sure) back and forth from goalpost to goalpost until the end of the braid appears. Next, reverse the process, winding the lines back upon the spool, being sure to keep a fair amount of tension on the line so as to avoid tangles and to pack the spool properly.
Do not attempt this in a park because unexpected dogs will have a field day and positively ruin yours.
You may think that the above paragraph is something of a joke. I’ve seen it all. I simply relate what I once witnessed to posit the point that a calculator is a lot easier and certainly less expensive than the efforts set forth in the above examples.
“Ah, huh. But suppose the two lines are of different diameters?” should be your follow-up question.
Let’s go there.
Rather than get into math formulae involving Total Capacity Factors, Braided Capacity Factors, Remaining Capacity Factors, as well as a reel’s Line Retrieve Per Crank Ratio Factor in order to ascertain how much monofilament backing you will need before filling the remainder of your reel’s spool with braid, I’ll suggest that you simply purchase larger spools of braided line.
PowerPro’s braided lines are sold in 100, 150, 300, 500 and 1,500 yard lengths. If you suffer from math anxiety, buying braid in bulk of either 500 or 1,500 yard spools will eliminate apprehension. After first putting on several yards of monofilament backing (more on that in a moment), simply top off the reel’s spool to capacity with braid, which comes in 5, 8, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, 65, 80, 100, 150, 200, and 200-pound test. Additionally, you’ll save money in the process. On average, by buying in the mid-range area of 10- 20- and 30-pound test braid on spools of 500 and 1,500 yards, you will save 18 to 20 per cent.
In any event, you will need approximately ten to fifteen yards of tight wraps of monofilament line before employing braid so as to prevent spool slippage due to the line’s slick properties. Failure to do this could result in the line sliding around the arbor, which in turn may be misdiagnosed as a problem with the reel’s drag system. Apart from using mono to build a firm base, PowerPro suggests either putting a piece of arbor tape around the barrel, or if the spool has a hole or knob for line, to use it. Before filling a spool with braided line on my spinning and conventional reels—even some of my fly reels—I first back the spool with the requisite amount of monofilament line.
In tying monofilament line to braided line, you need to know the Uni-to-Uni knot, which is simple and clearly illustrated in PowerPro’s instruction packaging.
Too, other useful knots are shown for larger diameter lines as well as for securing terminal tackle. Nothing complicated, but you do need to know these stronger knots because of braids’ inherent slickness. Clinch knots, which most of us are familiar with, won’t always hold.
Now, if you are saying to yourself at this point, “Why should I bother with all this braided line business? So what if I can obtain greater line capacity with braid because of its thinner diameter. So what if I can obtain greater strength given mono/braid equivalents? Monofilament line has served me well for many years. Why shouldn’t I simply stay and continue to play with monofilament line?”
The answer is that the advantages to using braided line outweigh the so-called disadvantages by a significant margin. Where detractors of braided lines feel they have a valid argument, the matter can easily be reconciled. A different line requires different handling techniques. It is as simple as that.
Let’s note the purported disadvantages and definite advantages of braided fishing lines. First, allow me to set the record straight by addressing a misconception that braided line acts like a hacksaw blade, cutting into rod guides and destroying them.
It is my understanding that in days of old, in certain instances, there were such reports; however, braided lines of today do no such thing.
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Braided Line
Common Complaints
1. Braided line can cause spool slippage as well as cut into itself when a big fish strikes hard, which can turn into a tangling (bird’s nest) nightmare.
Modify: Backing the line properly with monofilament (previously explained in detail), will avert slippage. Additionally, having your drag set properly will eliminate braided line from digging into itself when a monster strikes. Lighter is mightier; a lighter drag setting is all that is required to prevent backlash. For added insurance, repacking your line on the spool when you feel the braided material becoming spongy is the equivalent of a double indemnity policy. This can be easily accomplished by running the length of line at trolling speed behind a boat.
Note: Keep in mind that high-quality spinning reels provide specially designed line management systems to prevent line twist, backlashes, wind knots and tangles. Also, a ball-bearing swivel attached to your terminal tackle helps deter line twist whether using mono or braid. Too, manually closing the bail of your reel averts potential problems.
2. Braided line is more visible than monofilament in the water column.
Modify: A mono or fluorocarbon leader will make short work of that matter: perhaps a 3- to 4-foot length when bucktailing fluke in the shallows; a considerably longer top shot of 10 to 20 feet when descending deeper depths, such as 200 feet down into the column as when culling cod or lifting ling from wrecks.
3. Braided line, because of its virtual no-stretch factor, is too strong, and you could pull the lure out of a fish’s mouth. Too, that when snagged in heavy wooded cover, such as a section of shoreline laden with sunken trees (more often experienced while freshwater fishing), you’re truly stuck, having to cut the line.
Modify: With braided line, you do not set a hook as if you were trying to rip a wreck off of structure—and quite possibly tear your undershorts in the process. An easy lift or a flick of the wrist is all that is needed to set the hook. Again, your top shot (serving as a shock absorber while protecting your braid) would aid in nipping both these issues in the bud.
4. Because braided line is so slick, knots generally employed in tying with monofilament line, such as the Clinch Knot, are apt to slip.
Modify: Knots such as the Palomar and Uni are easy knots to learn, and they will not slip. Two others, the Albright and Reverse Albright, are all the knots you need to know. These knots are considerably stronger than those traditionally used with mono.
5. Tangles between braid and mono are tough to undo and braid with braid tangles are practically impossible to undo.
Modify: If you are a good angler, you have patience and that is the key here with braid to mono tangles. Braid to braid tangles can be minimized with the correct sinker weight which will reduce line drift. Good eyesight or glasses are required and if worse comes to worse, make sure you have your braid scissors handy to save you some time!
6. All things being equal (yardage wise), braided line will cost you two to three times more than monofilament line.
Modify: You can cut cost by simply using more mono backing, but not too much whereby you negate the purpose of braid in the first place.
Note that what ostensibly appears to be a disadvantage while employing braided line is easily amended and in practically all cases actually becomes advantageous when put in its proper perspective. This will become even clearer as we examine the many advantages that braided line has over monofilament.
1. Greater line capacity offers the benefit of increased yardage on even smaller, lighter reels. There is no need to purchase larger, heavier reels to hold many yards of monofilament line when a smaller, gutsy reel spooled with braided line can accomplish the same end.
2. Thinner braid diameters translate into longer casts, which allow you to cover more water in a single shot, which increases your odds of a hookup. Examples: 30-pound test PowerPro braided line is equivalent to an approximate diameter of 8-pound test monofilament line; 20-pound test braid is the equivalent of 6-pound test mono; 10-pound test braid is the equivalent of a mere 2-pound test diameter mono line. Picture the greater distance you will be able to cast with lighter lures while having the insurance of considerably stronger line.
3. Additionally, the virtual lack of memory of braided line renders smoother, longer casts and better line management. Fill a small arbor reel with monofilament and the memory problem becomes magnified, often resulting in a mess of curls and coils you won’t soon forget. Braided line is limp and lies neatly on the spool.
4. Lack of stretch in braided lines means easier, surer hookups. No need to rip fish’s lips and your undershorts in the bargain.
5. Braided line has far greater abrasion resistance than mono; therefore, braid is going to hold up better.
6. Much is said about braided line in relationship to reels and spools. Let’s take a moment and consider the rod factor in a light-medium inshore situation. Utilizing thinner diameter braided lines allow for smaller, lighter, and gutsier reels, which in turn allows for a more limber yet powerful rod. Shimano’s high-end reels—such as Stella’s SW and FD series, Sustain’s FE series, and Stradic’s FI and MgFB series—invite the application of supple, inexpensive, but superior rods.
Examples are Shakespeare’s SP1100 series Ugly Stiks. It’s a great marriage. Professionals rate Ugly Stik spinning rods among the best, along with Okuma’s Guide Select and Shimano’s Cumara. These rods, delivering braided line, lend themselves to solid hookups without trying to tear the head off a fish for the simple reason that you’ll be applying light, lifting or sweeping hook-sets instead of unnecessary pure muscle power, again, saving your briefs in the bargain.
Second-guessing some folks concerning the whole package just presented—namely a light reel, rod, and braided line—they might feel that such an outfit lacks stopping power. Not true. My Stella 3000 FD can apply the brakes with a maximum drag setting of 22 pounds. I’ve seen it tackle and bring a 70-pound billfish to boat.
7. The sensitivity of braided line is extraordinary and one of its best selling points. Braid, in this sense, is far superior to monofilament. Not only will you feel the slightest taps and hits and, of course, strikes—far greater than you ever would with monofilament—but you are also in constant communication with your lure, knowing if it is behaving well and running true to form.
8. Braided lines allow you to fish far deeper with smaller, lighter lures. For jigging, braid is sensational. The line’s thin diameter lets your tin travel deep down into the water column while maintaining that sensitivity. Common sense dictates that braid is a must for this type of application.
9. Whereas monofilament lines can become waterlogged and heavy, braided lines resist water absorption, resulting in superior performance.
10. Braided line boasts longevity over monofilament. Regarding resistance to a harsh marine environment, both below and above the water column (abrasion, exposure to sunlight), braid holds up considerably longer.
11. Given their pound-test equivalents, braided lines are by far much stronger than monofilament. Along shorelines, braid will rip through weeds and other vegetation like a razor. But again, I’ll caution and at the same time concede that it doesn’t have the stretch advantage over mono in that heavy wooded, watery underworld application. But it’s like the fellow with a severely swollen finger who pays a visit to the doctor and says, “Doc, it hurts when I do this,” the patient conveying his excruciating pain by demonstratively bending his digit. “Don’t do that,” laconically cautions the doctor. Too, in top-water applications, as braid floats, you don’t want to leave slack in the line as it can find and wind its way around dangling hooks. Remember what I said from the onset: Life is not perfect.
Nevertheless, you can still have your cake and eat it, too, as many reels come with an extra spool, or at least offer you the option of purchasing a second spool. Fill one with mono; the other with braid. Keeping in mind the elements covered, see and feel for yourself their differences. Like anything new, it takes a little getting used to. In short order, I believe you’ll agree that braided line has it all over monofilament.
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