by Jaiem Fleischmann
Gartside style of tying, originated by the legendary Jack Gartside, is
a highly versatile design. The pattern moves water effectively while the
sleek shape helps it to cast a respectable distance. I have found the
Dally pattern to work very well at imitating medium-sized baitfish, such
as larger spearing, smelt, sardines, finger mullet, and tinker mackerel.
It can be fished day or night, shallow or deep. I usually fish the pattern
using a moderate, steady hand-over-hand retrieve. Some other color combinations
I like to use are white & chartreuse hackle (no grizzly) with a chartreuse
collar, white hackle and a red collar, and, for dark nights, all black
(hackle, collar and tubing) with red eyes.
Mustad 34007SS 2/0 thru 4/0
White saddle hackle, natural grizzly hackle
1.5-inch diameter white Corsair tubing
White Krystal Flash
Flat wax white, fine mono
Size 3 black on silver stick-on
Head cement, 5-minute epoxy, permanent black marker, 2 inches
of 30-pound-test clear mono
Cut a section of Corsair tubing approximately one and one-half times longer
than the hook shank. Set it aside for now.
Secure one end of the 30-pound-test monofilament line on the far side
of the hook shank at the bend. Bring the other end of the mono around
behind the hook and secure it to the close side of the shank, forming
a about a one-half inch loop behind the bend. This acts as a "spring"
to support the tail hackles.
Remove the fluffy base fibers from four white hackles and tie them at
the bend of the hook. Allow the feathers to lay over the mono loop so
that the loop supports them.
Add a single grizzly hackle to both sides of the white hackle tail. This
gives the pattern a scaled and variegated appearance.
Lay four or five strands of white Krystal Flash along both sides of the
Tie one end of a Marabou feather just forward of the hackles and Palmer
wrap the Marabou around the shank forward. Keep the Palmer wraps as close
together as possible in order to form a tight collar. You're not using
the Palmer wrap in the traditional style, but forming a collar which will
lay back about one-third of the way over the hackle tail when the pattern
Work the thread about half the way to the hook eye. Slip the Corsair tubing
that you cut in Step #1 over the hook eye and back to the bend. Secure
the tube end closest to the bend about half way along the shank. Make
sure that the tubing's built-in thread line is horizontal along both sides
of the hook. Secure with several half-hitches and coat the thread wraps
with head cement.
When the cement is dry, push the Corsair back, doubling over itself
on the shank. This is a sort of reverse popper effect, giving the
body a slider shape. Push the tubing back far enough to the bend
so that the marabou flows out and around the hackle tail.
Attach the mono tying thread behind the hook eye and tie-in the open end
of the tubing. Trim the excess tubing, whip finish, and coat with head
cement. 10. Use a black, permanent marker to carefully apply a thin black
line to the two cotton threads that are woven into Corsair mesh. The thread
will absorb the marker's ink, giving lateral lines to the pattern.
Place the molded, stick-on eyes on both sides of the head, and coat the
head with a 5-minute epoxy to just behind the eyes. Don't epoxy the entire
tube! Depending upon the set-up time of your epoxy, and the room temperature,
you may have to place the pattern on a drying wheel. Let it cure thoroughly
and you're done.
Fleischmann is a long-time member of the Salty Flyrodders of New
York and a professional tyer whose patterns are available through
his unique fly rodders' Internet website --
www.artsnflies.com -- that includes original angling art and
Jack Gartside has a new book for 2000, "Scratching The Surface
-- Strange But True Tales & Techniques" -- and his "The Fly Fisherman's
Guide to Boston Harbor" is due out in the spring. Those books
and others, as well as original pattern selections, are available
only from Jack. For a brochure and order form, contact Jack Gartside,
10 Sachem St., Boston, MA 02120 (Telephone: 617-277-5831; E-mail: