Tackle Tips: Summertime Rod Building

Nor'east summertime weather can create some rod-building problems. The most prevalent is a humidity bloom.

Epoxy finishes like it hot, but not humid. Heat causes the two-part mixes to set-up and cure faster, but the lazy, hazy days of summer can also leave behind what often looks like tiny bubbles, giving finished wraps a cloudy appearance. It almost looks like an algae bloom on a lake, and like an algae bloom, it seems to come out of nowhere. The worst part is that there really is no way of correcting the problem without sanding off some of the finish, or removing the wrap and starting over again.

The culprit is humidity. All two-part mixes generate a certain amount of heat when they're mixed. This chemical reaction is what sets and cures the epoxy. It's too little to notice, but enough heat can be generated to lead to condensation as the epoxy sets and cools, leaving tiny water droplets behind.

If you're coating a particularly long wrap, you might even notice wavy lines that were created as the epoxy rotated, captured moisture, and set. Humidity can also settle on top of the finish, leaving it with a sticky feel even long after the finish has set hard. This can be a particularly annoying problem with Flex-Coat. UV rays can also have a curing effect on two-part finishes. Sometimes, putting the rod at rest in bright, summer sunlight can solve the problem.

The only way to combat summertime humidity levels is to expect the problems to develop and be prepared to have either a dehumidifier or air conditioner going well before you start your finish work, but an air conditioner presents another problem.

While it will do a good job of preventing a humidity bloom, it will also lower the workroom temperature considerably, maybe even lower than what's common during the cooler months. Cooler temperatures mean longer set and cure times for epoxies. You may have to readjust your timing, or do what professional rod builders do, and build a heated drying box.

The box needs to be fully enclosed, but not necessarily air tight, and long enough to accept your rodwork along with a drying motor set-up, etc. Enough heat can be generated by a series of light bulbs installed along the bottom of the box. Make sure to leave enough headroom over the bulbs so that they don't interfere with rotating guides. Energy conservationists will hate the idea, but what you may have to do is turn on the air conditioner and the heating lamps at the same time.

Better yet, wait for a day with low humidity to finish that rod or make a repair.